My E-RPM has been sitting on a car for 10 years.. then it sat on a shelf for 3.. I clean it up and slap it on the comet, and find water leaking out of both front bolt holes.. the comet has 66 heads so the support is not there for the manifold.. so i carefully torqued it down..(I have heard of peeps breaking off a ear or two when using these early heads).. next day getting ready to start up the car.. while adding water to the rad.. I find water coming out of the front driver side bolt.. the gasket looks good, bolt is tight.. but water is coming out.. I pull out the bolt to see and it looks like its coming from inside the bolt hole.. it looks like the corrosion has gone thru the water jacket and into the bolt hole.. wtf... the hole was full of corrosion.. basically white powder so some of the ideas so far is to drill out the hole and shove a sleeve in it.. further out is to weld it up and then redrill the hole.. but the shade tree way is going to take a stab at it first by pumping the hole with right stuff (silicone) shoving the bolt in at torquing it down, letting it sit for a couple of days and see what happens...just ruined the day... but I'm up for another challenge..lol
no.. didn't put any stuff on the gasket... never have.. figure ford doesn't goop that stuff on... I messed with it for a while the leak is inside the bolt hole...when I put my finger and cover the hole from the bottom, the bolt hole will fill up and over flow from the top.. I only use silicone on the ends, chucking the cork ones in the trash * i just re read what i wrote.. it can be taken harshly.. I didn't mean it that way.. what ever works for an individual.. good for them.. i have never had a issue not using silicone around the water jackets..
this may be a dumb question, but what does this mean? and if there is coolant in the threaded portion of the bolt hole, why not just put thread sealant on the bolt threads, like you do with head bolts that enter the water passages?
At the corners of the 66 heads where the bolt goes through the head does not have as much material as the newer heads. The bolt goes through the intake, then through a gap between the intake and head, and then into the threaded part of the head. If you overtighten the bolt you can snap the corner of the intake off because theres nothing supporting the corner. See the pic and notic a gap between intake and head where the bolt goes. Also the leak is coming internally from the intake into the bolt hole. the water port inside the intake has corroded the port out to the point it created a pinhole in the bolthole.
Clean the intake hole with a rifle brush ( or something similar ) and pack it full of " JB Weld ". Hold a putty knife under the intake gap when you do this, you don't want to get it in the threaded hole in the head. Once it has set up, redrill your hole and you should be good to go. I fixed a cracked block with this product! It's freakin amazing!
Jb weld is my next attempt... I had that same idea as I was pumping the hole full of silicone.. as of now it is drying with the bolt in it and torqued.. we will see if it fails.. I did use a bore brush and I thought it started snowing in Az.. pure white powder.. when i wqas done you can see the hole all cratered up... thank you for the input..
