Manual or Auto Choke?

I am tired of feathering the gas when I have cold starts and want to install a choke on my Holley 4776-4 600cfm carb.

It has part of the auto choke on it, but I would have to buy a new kit to get all the parts.

But I am more tempted to take the auto choke off and just install a cable. It is much cheaper and I don't mind choking by hand.

What are pros and cons of each? Is it worth the extra money for auto, or can a manual choke work "just fine"?

 

Here is a pic of my carb so you can see the choke area.

 

Really? What makes you say that? :16suspect

 

When you took that pic of the carb, was the engine cold or warmed up.When I look at that carb, the choke horn(top front of carb) looks like the choke flapper is partially closed. This would simmulate a cold start. Maybe you have to feather for another reason.

 

It would make any difference what temperature it was.The choke cover and heat tube are gone. Those are the parts that make it move. This choke is not functional at all, if this is the way it is being run.

 

I was messing with the little black arm on the side as seen in pic. So flap position may be out of wack. But why wouldn't it work? When I move arm it changes flap position...would it not work to just attach a cable to arm?

 

That carb was designed for a heat assisted choke. Presuming you have headers, that setup really won't work well. You could add an electric cap, which is probably as cheap, or cheaper, than buying the manual choke pieces and cable. It really boils down to what you prefer.

 

I was responding to Ron's post asking you what the temp was when the photo was taken.

 

How does a dual line 600 differ in appearance from a dual line 700, 750, or 780?

 

This is a 600. Double pumper.

 

Your picture is of a different model Holley carb with side hung flot bowls and a rear metering plate and single feed. The CFM rating is not what identifies it.
Downhillbiker's carb has center pivot bowls, a rear metering block and dual feeds. Ford used 600 cfm versions of these carbs in the mid-sixties on 390 GT cars. The look identical to larger CFM carbs of the same design.

 

The model number is a 4776-4, it's a 600 cfm.

 

I prefer the elec choke. If it is set properly it works just fine. I started my car yesterday and drove it right out of the garage @ 27 deg. as soon as I got the seatbelt fastened - no stumbling, coughing, belching what-so-ever.
As mentioned, it's a matter of preference. For me, elec. is the only way, unless I decided to go efi.

 

You are correct. It only came with a MANUAL choke. Yours has had an elect kit added. I DETEST elect chokes as I can't control them to my liking. On my cars that I only use in the summer, I remove the choke plate from the manual choke and use the choke linkage for fast idle only until the engine heats up without washing down the walls with raw fuel when the choke stays on too long....but that's just me. I do however use a complete manual choke on my trucks (460's) that see freezing temps just to start them and then set them with just a slight amount of the plate closed and feather the pedal to my liking till warm.

 

I will take manual choke over auto choke 9 times out of 10. Why? Because it is guaranteed to work, I can shut the choke off when I want, and it will last unless my cable jams or snaps.