302 acquired. Suggestions wanted.

Ok, here is an article explaining the differences between the 4350 and a normal spreadbore.......................................................................
http://www.drbob.tqhosting.com/tech/carb/4350_compared.html

 

Guess I was wrong, they do make an adapter although it's $64.00
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-2199/

 

For a 302 it would be over carburated (750cfm) unless it was built pretty good, but then a good holley would be easier and cheaper to work with.

 

thanks for the feedback
I paid $22 on ebay, It looks like alot of carburetor for the old 302 just holding it. I may just rebuild and sell, at $22 I shouldnt take a hit. We'll see.

 

That's good, be careful how much you spend for a rebuild kit, if it's more than $25 the carb may not be worth it. Maybe Ward is correct, but I thought these were only 650cfm...........still a bit much for a stock 302.

 

Heres my plans for the motor after reading and given feedback and talking with a machinist.

ignition - MSD Ignition 8202 I have on hand, an electronic distributor I haven't chosen yet.

Camshaft = edelbrock 214° / 224°.472" / .496"112°107°

intake = factory cast iron 4bbl

heads = factory cast iron, port matched valve seats/3 angle valve job and heavily opened up exhaust ports (I'll do myself). milling to bring to a improved 9:1 compression.
higher tension springs to match camshaft,
stock rockers.

bottom end = cylinder walls bored .30 over, stock crank/pistons, re-using billet steel main caps and of course .30 over piston rings.

289 hi-po exhaust manifolds, ported.

and of course new seals & screw in freeze plugs

carburetor = you think this one will work or should I sell.

 

I cracked into this carburetor. This thing has no digits or tags stamped ANYWHERE!
The good news it looks complete from what I see... but looks overly complicated in design .

If someone can give me a model of vehicle this came on or verify the carb model so I can try and find a rebuild kit and some instructions I would appreciate it.

heres some more pictures.

 

Before I get started let me say that the two most important areas that can make HP for a 289/302 are #1, the heads, and #2 the intake manifold/carburetor combonation. I believe you have a automatic, correct??? Because that does make a difference and I believe you can use a a little smaller carb with an automatic vs a 4spd.

The cam you have choosen is the "Ole FMS A-312" Hydraulic which is good for making HP up to 5000rpm and torque at about 3500, which for your mostly stock motor is Ok. I personally would have choosen the old FMS A-311 which is a little less lift, .448/.472 and just a little less duration .204/.214 and should make peak HP at about 4750rpm......IMHO

Ok, as for the carburetor, that Motorcraft 4350............sell it, it's not worth rebuilding and putting on the motor. I'd use a small Holley, but I'm partical to them because of the simplicity.

Since you are going to do a lot of work to the heads anyway, at a bare minimum pin the rocker studs...........these are just pressed in and with much of a cam and springs they will pull right out of the head and your motor could turn to scrap.

You mentioned "re-using Billet Steel Main Caps", did this motor have different main caps installed at one time, because they don't come from the factory with Billet Steel Main Caps.

I assume you are going to have the block machined, so have the machinest check the deck height, check the main runout as you may have to line hone the mains, and again I assume you are going to have the rods re-sized to make sure they are within spec and round and you should install new rod bolts, ARP makes them and they are fairly inexpensive and a lot more insurance than those Old Used Ones............then what about the crank, is that going to be check'd and maybe be reground, and when you change the came/lifters/springs make sure you get a new timing chain.

So you now have my 2cents...................................IMHO

 

All you have to do is let your fingers do the walking;

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1975-Ford-F250-3-4-ton-P-U-2WD/Carburetor-Kit/_/N-iocxyZ8vd1z

 

Several things: skip the billet steel main caps. You do not need them, nor the extra machine work to install them and line bore the block. And when you port the exhausts, focus only on the walls and roof, leave the floor alone or you hit water and/or destroy the flow in changing the short side radius. You also don't need screw in freeze plugs. I would go with a better intake manifold too.

 

The main caps were already installed so I'm going to clean and re-use them.

which intake would you recommend?

thanks for the info

 

thanks for the advice buddy :Handshake

yea this motor had the billet steel mains installed and from just poking around I'm not sure if the crank, cylinder bore, pistons or anything besides the heads are factory.

Yea I talked with dad about the carburetor, he said its a fine carb but it is too much for the motor so I'll just sell like you guys say.

 

Intake? Performer RPM (or Airgap), Weiand Stealth, Ford C9OX, A321. There are others too, basically any high rise dual plane aluminum intake. You will have the same bottomend, but a better top end than the low rise dual planes.