The problem with 1 wire chebby alternators is most of them are low amperage, so if you run a decent ignition, an electric fuel pump(you know like on an EFI system) and a radio they can overload the 1 wires causing failure and possibly fire.
The one i put on my 88 chev. 1 ton dully roof lites, bumper lites, a/c, air comp for air horns 5 lts in tailgate, all clearance lts..alarm,bed lt..elect valve for air horn,trailer towing package.used often, never a problem
And chances are its also TBI if it is even fuel injected.... Of course TBI uses a lower volume pump requiring less power then a TPI. And most of those things you listed are part time things, they aren't continuous use like a big stereo or a MDS6 in conjunction with the standard truck.(not unless you are one of those A$$holes that drives around riding his breaks and blowing his air horn continuously) The stock ford 2G alternator was rated at 75 amps and for a tuned port injection unit it was adequate, once people started adding the horsepower adders to the 5.0 like the MDS units and big stereos with amps did you start too see problems the 2G alternator is more then adequate in most cases. There is a reason why chebby doesn't use 1 wire alternators and haven't for years... maybe you should take a look into it and you might find out why the 3 wire alternators, (doesn't matter if they are ford or chebby) are actually better for commonly used vehicles. The only thing the 1 wire has over the 3 wire is ease of initial setup..
My 150 amp 3G has a self-exciting regulator and was originally setup as a 1-wire with the sense wire connected to the alternator output stud. I found that system voltage would drop from 14.5 volts to around 12 volts when my Taurus fan came on. I lengthened the the sense wire and connected it to the battery (+) terminal and now have 14.5 volts under all situations. Guess I really have a 2-wire alternator now?! LOL
