Problem test firing 302

I am finally ready to test fire my 70 Maverick Roadster project car...... Turn the key on to check fire from the dist. (accel electronic) it was used when I had gotten it so I was curious to see if it actually worked, well it did not. Coil is new and has power on both sides. So I decided to remove the electronic dist. and set in a points distr. that I knew was good, check it the points are nice and hot. I remove #1 plug to check fire at the plug... nothing... new wires and plugs, everything is new under the hood, (cylinoid, voltage regulator, etc.)

I think I have checked everything but I know I have not otherwise it would have fire. I need a little help on where else to look or what I need to recheck before I can pull everything for the last time for paint.

Thank you in advance for your time :Handshake

 

Does the coil have power when the key is in the "Start" position? Does the ignition fire if you "hot wire" the coil?

 

When the key is turned on one of the post on the coil (sorry can't remember which one) is hot. But I was told when cranking on it the wire should go off and on if that makes sense. I put a probe in the center of the coil where the wire goes and nothing?

 

When the key is on you should see 8-12V on the + terminal on the coil. You should see near zero volts on the - terminal on the coil if the points are closed and 12V if the points are open.

When the key goes to start, a wire from the starter solenoid (by the battery) should put full 12V on the + terminal. With the engine stopped and key on, the - terminal will read the same as the + if the points are open and should read near zero if the points are closed.

 

I had the coil tested at the parts store and it was good. I will check the other recommendations you made and let you know

 

You probably already kow, but the points actually make and break the ground to the coil. When it grouns, the coil fires. Good luck.

 

Right. I woke up this morning with the realization I had messed up and went back and edited that post. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks for catching the mistake.

 

When cranking, the negative terminal on the coil should fluctuate between near zero and 12V as the points make and break a circuit to ground. Not sure how your meter would show the fluctuating voltage.

On your points distributor, are you using the original coil wire that includes a resistance wire?

Did you check any wiring instructions for your electronic distributor to see if it wants full 12V rather than the reduced voltage from the original ignition wire?

 

I checked the coil with the key on it reads 11.6 volts (points were closed). So I popped the dist. cap off and spun the motor until the points were opened check the + side again it read 0.0
I have to have a wire crossed now I am confused.

 

Sounds like you might have a bad connection between the ignition switch and the coil + terminal or a bad ignition switch. I don't see another way for you to get 12V at the coil + terminal with key on and points open and 0V with points closed.

The bad connection along the path, or in the switch, might be passing voltage when there's no current draw (points open) but dropping the voltage at the high resistance bad connection when the circuit is complete (points closed).

I would test that possibility by removing the wire(s) from the coil + terminal, verify that the wire to the distributor is connected to the - terminal, run a jumper from the battery + post to the + terminal on the coil. If you have spark now, I think you have a bad connection between the coil and the ignition switch or a bad ignition switch.

Running a points distributor with full 12V to the coil will burn the points sooner but it won't hurt to try it as a test.

 

Uhh, no. When the points are closed current flows and a magnetic field builds in the coil. When the points open current flow stops, the magnetic field collapses through the coil windings and induces a voltage into the coil secondary winding, firing the plug.

 

Is the distributor body well grounded to the block, no paint, etc.?

 

The dist. is well grounded. I hooked a wire from the + side and ran it to the battery same reading

 

I had a simular situation on my car. I by passed the ballast resister, changed coil trying to get mine to fire. I had power to the coil but had nothing for spark. I ended up sanding the points with veryfine sandpaper and it fired right up. Even tho the points were new I guess they had oxidised on the contacts. Just my $.02

 

I had a simular situation, changed the condencer and had fire.