Did they set it to -1 degree or -.1 degree? -1 degree is way too much and will result in the tire wearing on the inside. (It will corner pretty good though) Have them align it to 77 specs. I have to look at my machine again but I think that the 69/70 specs are different than the 71 to like 74, then it goes to 75 to 77. The 75 to 77 are for radial tires. Truthfully the specs are not much different from each other. If you are getting feathering on your tread then you may have a toe problem as well. This will happen when the camber and toe are working against each other and the tire actually slides on the road as it turns. Without seeing the tires on the car I could not tell what was what. But I do know it isn't right if it has only been a month from the last alignment. I don't know why so many shops have a problem aligning our cars. They are totally adjustable for toe, camber and caster from the factory. Not so with almost all cars that are produced now. Good luck with the alignment. As I tell everyone on here, if you are in my area, get ahold of me and I will be more that happy to align your car for you. Old cars don't scare me!
with my specs I'm getting excessive wear on the outside of the tires... pissing me off, having newish tires wear unevenly...
Petrified Thread Revival Alert! After changing to the new 15x7's (to fit the Wilwood brakes) I never did get an alignment. I could tell it needed it because the handling got slightly worse with the new wheels/tires. I brought it in with the above specs. They struggled with it for 3 hours and still couldn't get to the above specs. They said they "ran out of room to adjust it further , implying that the adjustments were "maxed out"? Anyway, the result is the front wheel is now tearing up the valance corners. I subsequently took it off and brought it to the body shop for repairs. It had some rock chips and small dents, so this seemed a good time to do it. The settings look hosed as well; Camber -1.1 left, -1.5 rt Caster 2.6 left, 1.9 rt Toe .06 left, .07 rt ETA: I didn't get a chance to test drive it much due to I wanted to avoid more damage to the valance, I'm guessing though that this setting is more appropriate for modern wider radials...
My toe had gone out...no more wear problems. I think the son of the owner of the shop who did it made a mistake.. the dad re did it and didnt charge me .. been many miles and runnin straight and clean. I'm running PaulS 's numbers / no power steering. Handles like an F1
No the wheels are in EXACTLY the same space more or less.... I read that in your post and sounds CRAZY.. Forward??? More caster I would think would move it aft (back) ... like a caster on a shopping cart. Maybe your align dude is smokin reefer??
Sounds like my alignment job is blown. I guess it's off to another shop to try and get this resolved.
when the alignment Guy looked up the factory specs. for my '73, they were the same that Rod and Custom gave me to set my rack and pinion setup to... so far everything seems good... .25 degrees neg.camber 1.50 degrees pos. caster 1/8" toe in
On mine I run 2 3/4* caster 0* camber 1/16 toe-in for strictly street driving with radials. On my setup if I run more than 1/4* (-) camber the inside of my tires start wearing. And I definitely don't have enough adjustment to get 3 1/2* (+) caster as mentioned earlier in the thread.
When I used to do alignments back in the day we always set evrything at a 1/16 toed in at least thats what the john bean alignment school taught us I can't remember the other settings its been too long ago
One thing I don't get is how everyone here shows inch toe but every shop I've been to use degree toe... Is there a conversion? I think a inch measurement would have differant degree measuremens depending on tire size... a shop I went to tried to tell me 1/8" would be .125 degrees which doesn't sound right...
