ok the $2500 budget was to get me started I have that much in hand and expect to spend much more but for now Im looking for the best I can get with hat budget with room for upgrades as I go. I knew $2500 wouldnt get me all the way to the end but I thought it would be a good start. my cam seems like it maybe a little on the low side for what I want since its a 512 lift and you guys say in the 600's is where I need to be. as of now my Im assuming my internals are stock with the exception of the cam lifters and valve springs. I also upgraded the pushrods to get some that are supposed to be stronger than stock. im also running headman headers I dont know anyhting about the engine other than it ran pretty good when I bought the car. as far as my transmission I have a 2500 stall converter a stage 2 transgo shift kit and heavy duty bands inside. I know that will need to be upgraded eventually but for now Im trying to focus on the engine. what gears do you guys suggest? I told the rear end shop what I was planning on doing and thats what they recommended that or a 411 I know with a 411 it will wind the motor pretty high to drive it other than 1/4 mile at a time. I had an f100 with a 411 in it years ago and it would scream down the highway but I didnt care since it was a truck it got crappy mileage already. I dont care about gas mileage now but I would like to drive it where ever I want to take it and pass atleast one gas station along the way lol.
Slap a decent set of aftermarket heads on it, and run the bottom end until you can afford what you want. Pick the heads so you can perform the needed upgrades later on down the road to meet your future hp desires. If you aren't in a hurry, you would be surprised what kind of deals can be had. My 347 took almost 2 years to build, BUT, I got brand new TF heads for $800, cast 347 crank for free, .030 fresh block free, brand new 347 rods free...and the list goes on! If you are just patient and smart about it, you're budget can get you quite a ways!
update went to machine shop they said nothing wrong with my heads just some adjustments to the carb and timing are needed. but I broke down and spent $2370 on a 347 stroker kit and new heads with a forged crank connecting rods and pistons I still have to get the engine apart and get the machine work done but the hard part of saving up the money is over. now let the fun begin
You'll likely need around 4.30 gear with a 4,500'ish stall and mega-rpm cam. Plus a gutted race interior will probably be needed to push deeper into the 10's. The tracks will inspect you and likely not even let you run that on the track without a cage though. Either that.. or tech will let you run it once and then kick you off the track after that until you cage it. But those "one and done" trips to the track can sure be fun. lol And.. that rearend will need about a grand(or more) into it to make it hold up for the long term. Never good when an axle comes out of one of those things and you always hope it happens near the starting line instead of down the track at speed.
the axle coming out at the starting line is a good thing. its gonna be a scary ride if it comes out at the half way point. as far as my rear end goes the shop is going to put in a possi and a spool so hopefully the rear end will last its also going to have 31 spline axles all of that is supposed to help everything hold together better and work as one unit hopefully the 8.8 is going to be strong enough for a while. if not Ill have fun beating o it until it dies then Ill upgrade it again bigger and better. I dont want to strip the interior of the car. I still want to be able to street it here and there.
for sure!.. but then go try doing it on the streets! No amusement park will even come close when you actually realize how uncontrolled and dangerous it is to run that much power in a car(especially one with such short wheelbase as these cars have).. that should have 200-300 horsepower less given its current chassis level. If you break parts or lose a tire at speeds... and you just steer and pray that nothing gets in your way until you're stopped. Basically.. anyone/most can throw money at making more power. Getting the whole package to work together safely and predictably is the most time consuming and expensive part of the process. Drivetrain and suspension can easily cost triple of what the engine alone cost on a well prepared high powered car. Becuase it has to match the power level and the price goes through the roof as with anything else in life that's disproportionate as you get to the upper levels. 500 horse is easily doable for a healthy street car. Just plan on about 4 grand more to get all the parts necessary(and rebuild what you've already got) to get the power to the ground and keep you safe while doing it. That will give you a strong 11 second hot street car you can drive fast.. or just plain putt down to the grocery store with. I do it all the time and it definately makes all the hard work seem worth it.
I want to run my car on the track before I rebuild the engine. whats your guess for a stock engine with a stage 3 cam with a 512 lift headers and an rpm air gap intake?
what gear and stall? if I don't get back to this question very quick.. and without remembering what you have(3.73's?).. I'd guess around mid to high 14's. That's of course.. if you know how to drive it.
duh I forgot those two. the gears are stock 300? and the stall is 2500 Id be happy as can be high 12's
