Remove Grease/Oil frm Garage Floor?

What wud U use to lift oil frm concrete garage floor after getting the surface oil/grease w/ Oil Dry? Im thinkin in terms of an etching solution/liquid.

 

Marine Clean, made by POR 15, awesome stuff!
http://www.por15.com/MARINE-CLEAN/productinfo/MCG/

 

Thanks for info Dave. I will get some the nx time I place an order, or, better still, when/If I go to NSRA north show in Kalamazoo this wkend.

 

I have a spot in my garage where some tranny fluid has hit the pristine cement (I WONDER which vehicle is emitting tranny fluid...:16suspect)

I plan on putting down an epoxy coating this fall, just so I can soak up the tranny fluid without it soaking into the cement (I wonder where that tranny fluid is coming from...:16suspect)

In my last house, I first used cat litter, cheap stuff, to suck up the oil, then used muriatic acid to etch the cement, then put down the epoxy, and it held for as long as I owned the house.

The secret is to keep moving the cat litter over the spot with a shop broom. Once it is saturated, dump it, and add new litter, and brush it back and forth, and it will absorb all the grease.

 

that Marine Clean sounds like a good product! I have had good luck with POR-15, so I would try that stuff in a second!

 

Marine Clean is awesome! I've used loads of different stuff over the years, but this stuff has amazed me every time. I cleaned the seats in my green car to like new, you could see the dirt lifting of the vinyl as I sprayed it, I use it on everything. I get mine from NPD, and they give you a marked spray bottle, to dilute it to different strengths, I never use it straight or even 50/50.

 

Try Dawn dish soap Wet the area a little bit Apply the Dawn directly to the spot & Scrub.

 

I know when my hands are black from engine crud and grease, I always bypass the bar of soap and head directly for the Dawn - seems like it might work the same for the floor grease

 

We used the acid from old batteries in the diesel shop at the end of every week and the floors looked like brand new concrete. But that was a few years back and it is probably against someones rules now.

 

Go buy a bag of cement/concrete mix and any time you spill just put some of that on it. Give it a few minutes to soak it up, then sweep it away.

 

I have had excellent results from Nu Calgon degreaser (sold at HVAC supply houses) pour it on the oil spot, give it a scrub with the broom, and soak it up with oil dry. Looks like new.

http://www.uri.com/is-bin/intershop...Refrigeration/en_US/Images/Preview/416207.jpg

 

lucky for you guys I've painted football fields of concrete indoors and out! lol

If you wnat to just clean it?.. there are many good products out there if you want to spend the ching to do it over and over again.

Me?.. I'm a pro painter for many years and I do this..even with the availability of products costing $$$ and even $$$$:

kitty litter or oil absorber for wet.. then dawn as a precleaner for thicker buildups... and in the order of expense and what stock I have at any given time.. either acetone, laquer thinner, or denatured alcohol. Why do all that?.. because if not precleaned well enough?.. the areas can eventually pop and/or lose adhesion where there is higher load/abrasion, and continuous contact from future hot oil spills.

Muriatic acid to remove a small layer of concrete to reach fresh substrate. If used correctly at the 3-5% dilution ratio?.. swabbing the deck with the stuff will prep everything just like you sanded it all by hand. Then neutralize with(wet mop)..(or the concrete will continue to powder up underneath the primer/paint) a 2% mixture of vinegar with a very small dash of dawn.

Let dry for 2 days(or use fans/heat to assist in less than 24) and prime with decent epoxy floor primer. If you buy a particular "product system"?.. then you will be fine. But if you decide to mix and match.. or go with primerless single stage system?.. you better know the chemical makeups and characteristics of the coatings you use.

The ancient chinese painters secret is that for one coat only applications you can.. "cheat" a cheaper product(slightly modify to work deeper into the surface) to stick better and last longer by reducing the catalyst ratios which then delays drying and allows the coat to stay "wet" longer and have a higher crosslink pattern of the resins. You don't get better resins.. you're just maximizing what that particular cheaper product is using for its base resins quality.

And do yourself a favor if you really want a super tough and longer lasting floor coating. Stay away from Menards.

Sorry.. couldn't resist. Old painters joke there. "What?.. they have all the materials already and just want me to bid the labor?.. ok.. I'll add the typical 20% surcharge to my final figure then".

 

Hmmm, as much as I walk by the shelf with that stuff almost daily, I've never really thought about using it...

 

Thanks for all the responses. Im going to start w/ the Dawn and see how that works. I don't intend to paint the flr, it's old an has a quite-a-few cracks. I just don't want to be tracking oil/grease in my cars or house.

 

I use LA's Awesome cleaner from the dollar store on just about evrything.