You only need to flip the shift linkage on the C4 trans. An AOD already has it pointing the right way to use a Maverick floor shifter. With P/S you need the drop bracket to clear the headers. My headers were too close to the trans for my liking. Other brands may give more room depending on the angle they point inwards.
If you want to go cheap look for a '86-'88 5.0 T-Bird or Cougar and rob it's wiring harness... While not mass air, they are very similar to the '87-'88 Mustang speed densety harness and the mass air conversions for Stang apply exactly to these year Bird/Coug... PCM is mounted in the passenger side kick panel, so there is plenty of wiring to mount it most any place in the Mav... If you went this route be sure to pull the fuel pump harness as well, runs the length of the car with the pump relay in the trunk near passenger side trunk hinge...
2050 RPM at 70mph I'm using a mixture of wiring harnesses but the original harness is from a Mark7. I eliminated the Maverick fuse box and added one under the hood for high amp stuff from a Bronco and an accessory fuse panel that I got from a parts store(don't remember where). If I were to do that again, I would mount it either in the tunnel area or on the right side above the ac box. Mine is currently mounted on the left kick panel. I've seen several Mustangs with mild modifications with only fuel pressure and/or MAF tweaks. An adjustable regulator would take care of the fuel. If you're using speed density, you'll need to tune the ECM to correct for mod's exceeding headers and mild intake changes. Those old computers are not flash programmable but chips can be burned with custom tunes.
Those figures are a guess at best. It all depends on the combo you're running with either. My Comet pulls down 16 mpg running 75-80mph on the freeway with a C-4 and 3.50's (3000-3500 rpms). My V8 Ranger got 18 mpg (3500 lbs) with a carbed Explorer motor, Toploader 4 speed, 3.73 rear and 28" tires, which is 2 mpg better than the same motor, completely stock in a 99 Mountaineer. It all depends on how you build it and how you drive it.
71 mavrk You going in the right direction. I did a EFI install 10 yrs. ago and will not use a carb. again. With you living in Reno and driving up and over donner EFI is the only way to go . My set up is a bone stock 88 mustang 5.0 / Aod / 3.00 rear gear 26'' tall rear tires at 65 mph 1700 - 1750 rpm 22 to 24 mpg it I don't stand on the load pedal to long. If you have any ? feal free to call 951 533 9778 Jay p.s. check my gallery for pic.
Jay, Thanks for the info. Great pix of your car. I too am convince that EFI is the way to go to keep these cars affordable to drive in the future. I'm still looking for some info on where people cut the hole in the firewall for the EFI wiring harness. Anyone got some pictures? Thanks everyone!
I used the hole that was left when I removed/eliminated the OEM fuse box and harness bulkhead connector. I don't really recommend doing that unless you plan on modifying the harness significantly and you might have to lengthen an EEC harness depending on which one you have. If I were to do it again, I would try to locate it just under the trans tunnel bend to keep it out of sight. Those big grommets aren't real pretty but if done right, they look ok.
1 Is your car a factory a/c ? mine was not to start with but I converted to factory a/c. 2 What wire loom are you going to use? 3 I used the top non a/c heater hose hole as part of the hole and drilled (3/4") cut it open into a oval hole A.. I used a stock 88 mustang ECM and wiring . B.. Ran the ECM wiring between the heater box and firewall them velcro the ECM to the bottom of the heater box next to the passanger kick panel.
Thanks for the info. I retrofit AC to my car with an OEM unit. I'm not sure if I want to use the old heater hose holes. I would like to get it closer to the kick panel and in a less conspicuous spot. I will be using an aftermarket loom and will probably mount it to the right side kick panel. I would like to get the OEM ECM plastic mount but they are hell to get out of the junk car. For those looking at how the EFI system works and the horsepower breakdowns of modifications to a EFI 5.0, I found this site interesting: http://webpages.charter.net/darrell1/mustang_dyno.html
yeah.. I still see some guys running moderately mod'd LS stuff using stock tunes and they swear they aren't leaving much on the table compared to "their buddy or.. some guy who had almost the identical setup". And the cheaper hand held tuners are more like bolt-ons since they give far less access and control. Then there's the guys who want to get the most out of a build who would never even consider running a stock ECM on something they just dumped that much money into. The fact is.. regardless of an ECM's smarts and self learning attributes.. the factory calibration is intended to be conservative by design. Just too many people running cars too hard while not doing scheduled maintenance without any concern for drivetrain warranty issues out there. It would be foolish of mfgrs to not take measures to protect their interests with milder base tunes. Knock sensors alone don't save engines. And me personally?.. I rarely run any of my vehicles, regardless of engine size, with stock tunes any more. Especially since my moderately mod'd 4.3 Vortec in the company van picked up 32 ftlb of torque at just 1950 rpm. Now it's a bitch to get going in the snow when it's empty now that it's so touchy.. but that tune alone totally changed the character of the vehicle when all the mod'd airflow and exhuast tricks were finally calibrated into the ECM. The MAF scale changes alone gave great gains across the board. Just need to keep in mind that while total peak horsepower may not always jump up by 40+ horse(although good heads can often make this possible).. the average gains across the power band can jump larger amounts at certain rpm ranges to make the motors power curve feel fatter. Which of course makes the motor feel bigger than it really is. That's what a good custom tune can do if you have most of the other ingredients already installed. And well worth the bang for the buck.. even at that power level.. IMHO.
I spoke with one of the tuner places. He did not seem too knowledgeable. I think they were geared towards more of the newer cars. When I asked him if he had any tunes specific to transplants like the Maverick, all he could say was that the motor was the same so the tune would be the same for the Maverick. He did not get that the exhaust/headers are different as well as how the cold air intake would not be the same. Plus the car is a few pounds lighter. I was not impressed. http://www.americanmuscle.com/sct-4bank-custom-8793gt.html#fitment I'm still undecided as to how much I am going to do to the intake/fuel system. After looking at some comparisons in the link I provided earlier, I'm not sure how much benefit the aftermarket intakes give in the power range I am looking for. Most of them had lower numbers than stock but put out higher numbers up top where I don’t plan to be. I have a book on order that I hope will give some insight: http://www.ebay.com/itm/230400874238?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Still looking for some detailed engine compartment photos from anyone who has done it. Just looking for some heads up as to any issues I might encounter: Micahkev-at-pacbell.net Thanks
Find out where all the faster 5.0 and other EFI guys have thgeir stuff tuned and be prepared to spend more because of it. Better to pay more and have it done right the first time. As for the more expensive parts/mod's.. doubtful that you would really take advantage of the mid-range and upper-rpm gains with your "daily driver with MPG" intentions. I'd say K.I.S.S. would surely apply here. Just build the motor for torque peak at or under 4,000rpm(easy to do with many stock parts).. keep the final gear choice within reason(an OD trans obviously gives much more lattitude here).. and learn how to read the traffic and lights ahead of you to save some petrol in the stop and go stuff. Also have to keep in mind that with a bone stock 5.0.. your light little car will run better than any factory bloated stang that ever came stock with that little low-rpm EFI tractor motor. lol Even with the restrictive factory intake.. that's probably a solid little 320+ hp motor. Heads, cam, exhaust, and tuning will be key to making it all work though. You'll give up 30+ horse on top compared to the aftermarket stuff.. but the low end tractability and off-idle torque will be noticably fatter on the stock parts. Why not buy a milder mannered used aftermarket intake? There's TONS and TONS of this used 5.0 stuff for sale all over the place these days. It even builds up at my local speed shops once in a while... while the LS stuff flies off the used parts shelves. lol
bro i just swapped a efi 5.0 into my maverick and it is a blast to drive i love it the best swap u can do...main thing is BUY A PAINLESS WIRING HARNESS it makes the swap better
Thanks. Did you do anything to the motor? Any detailed pictures available? Any problems? I was going to use the wiring harness from these guys: http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/products/classic-ford-harness
