I am looking to replace the rear end suspension in my 1972 Maverick. I found (thanks to searching the forums) a new replacement for the rear leaf springs. What other parts should I need? I have never changed a suspension out before but I would like to keep it true to the origional form as possible. I will for the most part just be replacing things one thing at a time so I dont lose my place and mess something up...haha Other than Leaf springs and their associated parts for a rear end change out what would I need? And is this a task I can handle by myself with my car on jackstands? Thanks! Also...how difficult is it to locate/replace the rear end axel?
How old are the rear shocks? Might as well replace those while you are down there. Jack stands and a floor jack is all the equipment you really need to do rear suspension work. You will also need hand tools, obviously. 1/2" socket set may be needed to loosen the leaf spring u-bolts. For the rear end, what are you looking to replace? The whole thing? Is there something wrong with it?
The shocks are bad as well so I will probably replace them as well considering I will have the back end out anyway. The rear end recently developed a leak. I dont know much about rear ends as I generally have only messed around with engines. So my knowledge on everything from the flexplate back is from just reading. A leaky rear end, could that be a gasket or seal issue?
A leak from your rear end could be axle seals (out on the ends, where the drum brakes are), or a pinion seal (the front part, which attaches to the driveshaft) or the center section gasket (where the large, ribbed center section bolts into the rear end housing). Each seal has a certain level of difficulty associated with them. I recommend getting a repair manual for your car, so that you can read and see what is involved in these kind of repairs. Try and find a Chilton or get the Maverick/Comet repair series of books. Both can be found on eBay or you could place an ad in the wanted section of the forum and see if anyone has an extra.
teh axel seals are a piece of cake the other seals are rather difficult. Ive done the front seal in a rear end and the axel seals in more than one ford truck and I would have to say I dont think I would do the front seal myself again. (it takes alot of pressure when you torque the bolt back down) dont get that pressure right and youll have problems when you go to drive it again. if you can afford it take it to a rear end shop and have them "clean it up" replacing the seals and cleaning out any junk that might be in there then youll know if theres anything broken or really worn inside as well. take the rear end out yourself its fairly easy and take it to the shop itll cost you a couple hundred bucks atleast just for them to pull it and reinstall it
I plan on taking out everything myself and if I have to taking the rear to someone to fix. I am goign to try and do everything myself if I can. Even if it takes forever... Since I am going to be back there I might as well just do the entire rear end since its going to be on jacks anyways.
do you know enough to know what this means? do you have the tools to set up a rear end? would you know a worn part in the gear set if you saw it? these are set up within just a few thousandths clearances, some things are better left to the Pros...
I dont know a lot myself. But my grandfather is helping me with the crucial things. He is a retired mechanic. BUT! fear not, I am not above taking it to a shop and paying someone to do it faster and likely cheaper then me doing it 4 times.
It still has the origional tank. There is some surface rust on the bottom but the tank is still in excellent condition.
just take it out of the car yourself. clean it up as best you can without tearing it apart. then take it to the shop. I am putting a custom rear end under my car its out of a 96 expedition (strength for racing) the shop is going to replace all of the seals and bearings give me new heavier axles (31 spline) better gears and shorten it to fit my specific needs all for $1250 Ive bought used axles with a good bearing on it (stock mind you) for $125 EACH plus axle seals were about $15 a piece IF you got the right one you were lucky. so there went three hundred bucks and all I did was replace worn out parts with half worn out parts lol luckily these days more of the old stuff is available new again. YOU can change the axle seals and bearings just let eh shop change the rest unless you plan to buy all new internals (gears bearings seals the works) if you do BUY A BOOK and read it a couple of times then if you have the right tools go for it! its not hard its just very expensive if you do one thing wrong on the internals. if you have everything new and the tools and the patients do it yourself BUT double check EVERYTHING and if it comes out the same both times you either did it right two time or you did it wrong two times LOL (just kidding you CAN do it)
while you are in there, change the...gear ratio, that with an install kit (new bearings/seals/crush washer) you will be ready for paint and rear Disc. brakes from a Crown Vic. (something you can do)...
I just rebuilt my center section. It's not as difficult as many believe. Please don't mis-interpret, guys, I'm not trying to be argumentative in the least. Some points of interest: -Inspecting bearings and races in the center chunk (hog's head) for wear is the same as checking crank and cam bearings. Your fingernails are highly enervated (sensitive); use them. Most bearings/races are re-useable if the they have not been exposed to extreme conditions. -Summit offers an 8" rebuild kit that they do not advertise. It's made by Motive Gear (part# RA310RAT). Includes everything you will need, except, wheel bearings and wheel seals. The bearings/races that are included are Timken out of their USA plant. Crush sleeve, pinion nut, pinion oil seal, gasket, thread locker for ring gear bolts, everything. -The only special tools you will need are a dial indicator, inch-lb beam or dial-type torque wrench, a breaker bar with a pipe extension for added leverage (the pinion nut needs, like, 170 ft-lbs of torque to get it close to pre-load.), the torque specs/settings for everything (I can send them to you), and a good bench vise. I have a 12 ton shop press that I picked up from Harbor Freight, which helps a lot, but is not absolutley necessary. -Check this link out: There are 3 or 4 parts to this video series. An 8" is exactly the same as a 9", just on a smaller scale. Internals and everything. This guy does not use a press, which is a useful point of demonstration for those who want to try this on a budget, but, the use of an impact on the pinion nut to set pre-load is not advisable due to the notion that it leaves scoring on the bearing races. -Another great piece of reference material: "Bad Shoe Productions." Google it. Recommended by a member on this board to me in the past. I have found their stuff very helpful and worth the investment. When all is said and done, I have rebuilt my differential with a new gear set and internals, bought a shop press and other related tools/materials, and know that care and effort was put into the rebuild, all for less than I would have paid for someone else to do it. Now, I have the satisfaction of learning something new that I can take with me for the rest of my life and the tools to do it whenever I want. Don't let something new scare you off. It is entirely possible. If we all got scared of adventure, nobody would maintain the great hobby of working on their own cars and life would suck. "What one man can do, another can do." -Russel Crowe, Gladiator (I think) Happy wrenching, Eric
Thanks for that information Eric! That was very very helpful. If you dont mind i would love to have those torque values. Clay
