71 Maverick Build "Tess"

Thought I would start a build thread for my maverick and share my ideas and see what people think. I've been debating over several ways to go with the maverick and finally decided on road racing. Now it’s still going to be a street car so it won’t be too crazy but ya never know. Here’s my general build:
Powertrain:
-mild built 351 Windsor
-Toploader 4-speed
-ford 9 posi 3.50 gears
Suspension:
-tri 4-link
-R&C mustang II frontend
-Front and Rear coilovers
Other:
-Wilwood brakes all around
-Custom dash (just have to wait and see)
-racing seats
-other goodies
That’s the big stuff I’m going to be starting with interior and some exterior stuff first. Will update with pics and whats going on.

 

If you are going to road race it plan on a good cage and tieing the subframes together...Gotta be a rigid platform if you want it to perform in the twisties...Otherwise it could be an evil handling monster that you will have trouble dialing in.

 

Sounds like a nice build.

Yeah.. Mavman knows what he's talking about in regards to the unibody flex and it would be tough to overdo it on these cars. I'd also recommend against a MII setup if you want improved geometry for road racing.

There are quite a few out there and the prices are certainly higher than the MII setups.. but they will be faster around a track too. But as with anything like this.. speed costs.. how fast do you want to go? lol

Here's another interesting setup too. Only downside is not being able to completely rid yourself of the shock towers and still needing to do a rack conversion. Not sure what would be involved with getting it fitted onto our narrower cars.. but I may be robbing a few parts from the kit myself.

http://www.ridetech.com/info/2012/03/64-66-mustang-tru-turn/

 

What would be a better alternative to the mII? I would like to get rid of the shock towers for the extra room.

 

All the M-II "alternatives" I've seen need to retain (at least part of) the towers...

 

off topic here but your car is bad @ss raselkirk.

 

Some of the Parts that ive been catching when a good deal comes around.

Finally got the 12 point roll cage from jegs, yay!

67 Impala lights with caprice lens

mustang pop gas cap

 

Consider building a 302 based motor versus the 351 based motor. You can put a 347 stroker kit in it pretty cheap and still build it mild the way you like. The advantage is lighter weight and a slightly lower center of gravity (for road racing) due to the lower deck height.

 

This is the general design of the front suspension that i have come up with so far it will change in some aspects of the sizing and lengths. just waiting on the car to come to the shop so i can get more baseline measurements on the body and frame.

Since reviewing the suspension options ive decided to just rebuild the entire frame with a new SLA type suspension. the Basic frame will be 2x3 with 2x1 bracing throughout for additional bracing. working on a frame jig, and measurements on the car. The spindles are from port city racing waiting on dimensions for the hub to finish up the dimensions. let me know the thoughts any help is welcome!!

 

passing this link on it helped me some
http://www.racingaspirations.com/suspension-geometry-calculator

 

Thought id leave an update just got my 3x2 steel for frame rails and 2x1 for bracing. FYI 24' pieces are hard to move! now its on to putting together a frame jig any thought????

 

wow this is a really advance level of engineering that your doing. i have not seen any body on this board take on something this extensive.
i dont know if your on pro-touring.com but they have more of this type of engineering going on.

now i do not know but im under the impression the upper control arm should be at the opposite angle that you have in your drawing. or the distance between the upper and lower ball joints be greater than the distance between the control arm pivot points.
now i could easily be wrong about this and look forward to learning more.

 

You are correct about the angles that was my first design for the front, but after lots of reading found out that I was wrong so I have designed it just haven't uploaded thr new design yet. I will check out that site thanks. Im unsure about the distance but I will look into it.

 

I would agree with John Holden,even w/ aluminum hds that 351w will make your car nose heavy,it will have a tendency to push in the corners.Just saying this because I was involved in circle trk for about 4 yrs.Without adding a lot of weight to the back of the car it will never handle well.

 

check out this build on pro-touring http://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?58842-Project-BLUEprint-1965-Falcon

its a falcon. he did a 3 link for the rear. his front suspension still uses stock frame rails and the lower control arm and strut rod mount locations. the upper control arms have the shelby drop done. he has a coil over shock that goes to the lower control arm.

this car is really fast and goes to show that you dont need to wipe the slate clean to do the front suspension.