just started rebuilding a holley 4160 600cfm today. pretty fun i must say. however, when i opened up the primary fuel bowl, it was just gunked with old dried out gas. this **** is thick as ****. guess the dude before me didnt empty the bowls before storage. is there a point where you cannot clean it enough to get it working properly?
If it's that bad, the rest may be trashed. If any of those tiny passages in the carb are clogged, then it's not going to work. Sounds like you'll need to soak it in carb cleaner for a week or two, then remove it and start working on the passages with srpay carb cleaner (wear eye protection) and an air gun on an air compressor. It's probably a basket case if it's that bad though.
its not corroded, but i think youre right about the dip. so far ive gone through the primary fuel bowl. took a lot longer than i thought it would. it had like a 1/4 of a centimeter of residue. i got it all cleaned off with force. now im moving on to the metering block
will it be obvious if it gets damaged? i left the primary metering block and secondary metering plate in there over night. :O
Huh, the guys who taught me told me to drop them in the dip can on like a wednesday if I planned to work on one that weekend. Depending on how much crud was in them. Overnight is like the bare minimum I would soak any part in a cleaning agent (depending on the agent of course).
thanks to a tip from kboldin got a small sonic tank from harbor freight and use it to clean my carb parts. its intended for jewelry but works great for carbs. i put a mixture of atf and mineral spirits in it. the atf is really good at dissolving the varnish that dried gas leaves and the mineral spirits thins it down nicely so it will get into all the passages and helps the cleaning. the sonic tank helps get the internal passages cleared that are otherwise really hard to clean.
so this whole time i've been under the impression that me carb is a 4160. i do know it has vacuum secondaries, but the gaskets that came in my rebuild kit dont match the ones that are on it. the one between the primary metering block and the main body and the one in between the plate and the main body. also the power valve was different. the dude at the shop said the power valve would work though. ive been going by the number on the choke tower, however, it has an l in front of it instead of the r that is shown on all the part number lists. if by some miracle one of you guys knows off the top of your head, here are the numbers found on the choke tower. LIST-6919 (this is the # i used to get my rebuild kit) 2689 GR 4585 B P74 (on the side) im gonna check their website again, but i thought id post here first in an effort to save time. i posted this in another thread but i figured id try it here too since this thread is getting more traffic. maybe im just impatient
looks like a 4160 to me from a quick search. Probably moot at this point if you've opened it already.. but I learned a long time ago that it's usually best to get the trick kit which works "for all in the family".. that will include several various types of gaskets to cover a broader spectrum of potential blocks/baseplate types. You could always buy the secondary metering block kit with longer transfer tube and convert it to the regular rear metering block with replaceable jets too. That will allow you dial it in better and give you the ability to run basic rebuild type parts.
The Powervalve you pulled out of it was a 2 stage unit used in the Emissions carbs like the 6919. The replacement is a single stage. Should be a 6.5 6919 is a 4160. The difference between a 4160 and a 4150 is the presence of a secondary metering block. The 4160 does not use one. It has a metering plate instead.
yeah i figured i'd just hold on to the spare gaskets i didnt use. with the sec. metering block kit, does it need to be specific to the 6919 or is it the same for all 4160's? the holley carb number list has "R" in front of all of them. my carb doesnt have the "R" in front of 6919, does that mean anything? thanks for the reply
Shoot a picture of the carb, and if it is torn down, include all the parts, including the plates and/or blocks. If I recall, the part number is near the choke horn. Raised numbers.
so it is a 4160 and 6919 is a valid # phew. is it ok to use the single stage? i think that shop gave me the kit for a 4150 because it came with what looked like a secondary metering block gasket instead of a plate gasket. but the primary metering block gasket didnt fit either. it had a small hole for the tube assy. instead of a cut out like the gasket on my carb. thanks for the reply
the first photo says "LIST 6919 2669" The second photo shows the primary metering block gasket that doesnt match. (no accelerator pump cut away on the new gasket. instead it has an accelerator pump transfer hole) and the third photo shows the secondary metering body gasket (this matches) above the secondary metering plate (the gasket for the plate did not come with the kit)
In the third photo, you do not show the secondary metering plate, only the secondary side of the throttle body. The metering plate gasket is correct for it, you're missing the plate that screws on top of the gasket, the gasket serves as both the bowl gasket and the metering plate gasket.
