So, now that my starting issue has been taken care of... http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=93897 ... I can finally get back to the major problem at hand. Long story short(er): I was having what I thought were carb issues so I rebuilt the original carb a couple of times. Even after that it would idle but die when I gave it gas to move. Eventually it would turn over and you could hear the engine try to catch but it wouldn't start. I decided to just replace the carb (which I was going to do eventually anyway) and changed it to a 4bbl along with a new 4bbl intake. When I installed the new intake manifold I pulled the distributor and carefully marked where the rotor was pointing so I could put it back in the right spot. When I went to reinstall it, it dropped in with the rotor in the exact position I had it marked. Problem was, when I went to start the engine, it was doing the exact same thing it was doing before I replaced the carb and intake: it turned over and you could hear the engine try to catch but it would not start. This is when I realized that the carb was not the issue. Then I thought that maybe the distributor was one tooth off so I pulled it and moved it a notch one time, two times and eventually lost track of where it was. I'm pretty sure there's an issue with the distributor itself and the electronic ignition that was installed a year ago when I bought the car. Problem is, before I can figure out what is wrong, I need to get the distributor installed correctly. After all of that, here's my question: I have the Chilton's manual and I know that I need to move the crankshaft damper to align the BTDC mark with the timing pointer. Problem is, I don't know what the BTDC mark looks like. Is it the notch in the damper? Here's a picture of the pointer lined up with the notch. Is this the correct position to mark the #1 spark plug point on the distributor and move the rotor to it before I drop it back in? Any help would be much appreciated.
Ah, yes. I found the ruler marks. It was so dirty, I had to wipe it down to find them. The Chilton manual has a diagram showing the ruler. It says that BTDC is at the 20 mark on the ruler. Is this where I should set the timing pointer?
I'm not worried about the timing off the bat. I just want to know where to set it so I can find position of the #1 spark plug so I can point the rotor to it and reinstall the distributor.
as above...once the compression has exhausted look at the pointer, rotate the motor by hand to get it to...TDC...on the damper, this is the...compression stroke. now find #1 plug wire in the cap and point the rotor to it, slide the dist. into the block. most times you will have to put it a tooth off so the dist. gear can mesh with the cam gear. the oil pump drive may cause it to not go all the way in at first. they have a tool for this or you can make one. don't just stick a socket on an extension and do it... the socket needs to be secured to the extension. ...check and make sure the wires are in the correct firing order...
Last time I installed the distributor and it hit the oil pump drive I just bumped the engine and it dropped right in. Should I not do that this time?
This is just my opinion, but it's best not to do that. I prefer to get everything aligned so that it just drops in. To time it, once you get the distributor in place, realign the pointer at 12* BTC, then with a phillips screw driver inserted in the #1 spark plug wire end, turn the ignition "ON" (do not start it) then while holding the screw driver next to a grounding point, slowly rotate the distributor back and forth and watch for a spark. The instant it sparks, stop movement and lock the dsitributor down. The ignition should be timed "dead on" where you had the pointer aligned. The engine should now start without any further adjustments to the ignition. If it does not, then start looking for the problem elsewhere, as you have now eliminated the ignition as long as you had a good strong spark at the plug.
I just got mine to top dead center on the compression stroke put a screw driver or coat hanger to make sure # 1 was at the top put my distributor in rotor pointed to number 1 and I was good to go. Hope that helps
When you get the distributor back in you will want to check voltage to the coil in both "start" and "run positions. The start position should have 12 volts to the coil and the run position should have 9 volts. If the voltage is low you need to look for bad wiring or a worn ignition switch. I have heard that Petronix units sometimes require a full 12 volts in the run position, but I haven't had that issue myself. Other things to check are the coil, condenser and the distributor itself.
Bought a new distributor today. Went to install it step by step the way you guys said and how I read in the manual. First time I lined everything up and it dropped all the way in. Double checked my marks, the firing order of the plugs, everything. Turned it over a couple of times and nothing. Pulled the distributor back out, reset the damper to the correct mark, lined up the rotor and tried to put it back in. It wouldn't go back all the way, wasn't lining up with the oil pump drive. Looked down there with a flashlight and saw that the oil pump drive wasn't centered in the slot. It was leaning up against the wall of its housing. I stuck a screwdriver down there and wiggled it. It seems to bee loose and just floating there. Is that normal? Anyway, this is when things got bad. I figured it was normal for it to be loose so I went to drop the distributor in again. I carefully worked it in and out a couple of times getting the gears lined up with were the rotor was supposed to be but it wouldn't go all the way down. I pulled it out to take a look and a few seconds later the hole for the distributor EXPLODED AND CHARED MY HAND! It was like a backfire but out of the hole for the distributor. It was not F***ing fun at all. I'm fine, just some minor oil burns up hand and arm. Needless to say, I'm taking a break from this until tomorrow. Is any of this at all normal? I read and research and I'm extremely meticulous and careful with every step I take but I have absolutely no experience with any of this so I don't know what to expect. Since I got it last year I've replaced the battery, carb, intake manifold, ignition coil, ignition switch, and I'm trying to replace the distributor but it still doesn't run.
It is normal for the pump drive shaft to move around at the top when the dist. shaft is out. The shaft doesn't fit tight enough in the pump to keep it perfectly centered. Flame coming from the dist. hole is not normal and I would think not possible unless you have fuel leaking into the block. Glad to hear your ok, could it have been an electrical shock from the dizzy? Was the ignition turned on?
Ignition was off and was not a shock. BOOM... fire and blackness everywhere. My ears are still ringing from it. Not fun.
i have a similar problem (without explosion. knock on wood) and would like to see where this thread goes