Hi I had some time this weekend to mess with the Maverick and it's power steering issues. *The problem is that from the center (wheels straight) it's easy to turn to the right and back to center, but then hard (like manual steering) to the left. The recap of the thread is here: http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=92344 This time, I lifted the front end off the ground, unbolted the steering cylinder, and turned the wheels side to side to see what the cylinder and it's rod does. With the cylinder dangling from the control valve (box was underneath it) it was easy to steer right and left, lock to lock. No toughness. This tells me that there was no binding with the physical mechanics of the steering system. I then had a buddy turn the wheel while I recorded the cylinder to see what the actuator does, which was interesting. Here it is: http://youtu.be/KGtHHmnPLJw If it's grainy video, change the quality. The rod for the cylinder is hidden behind the hoses attached to the control valve. You can see the polished tip poking out from behind. The cylinder arm stays inside when the steering is to the right, when it passes center going to the left, and when the steering gets about halfway to lock going left the rod extends all the way out. When the steering starts to go back to the right, it almost immediately goes back in. So the cylinder, to a degree, is working, but here's my question to the community: Is it supposed to work this way? Excuse my ignorance on this stuff as I have no idea how the fluid system works with the control valve and how it relates to the steering position, but I figured that the cylinder rod would move to various lengths depending on how the control valve changes the fluid pressure within itself. The cylinder just wouldn't shoot out or back in, in an immediate fashion like in the video. Would this indicate a stuck valve somewhere? Maybe I just need to take the cylinder off and do a rebuild? I've ruled the control valve out of the problem. I got ahold of another control valve, put it on, tested the steering, got the same results. I'll probably be selling that control valve later... So yea, I'm kind of at a loss of what to do next with this. Ideas are welcome. Thank you!
I know you said you ruled out the control valve by swapping in another, however did you try to adjust it in order to center the spool inside? This is from stangerssite.com : "New and rebuilt control valves should already come adjusted when you get them and require no further adjustment. The only accessible adustment is found under the aluminum end cap on the far end of the valve. This consists of a nut on a threaded rod and controls the centering of the spool valve inside the valve housing. Many people think this nut should be turned down tight, like most nuts are supposed to be. However, this is an adjustment and is not supposed to be just tightened down. This adjustment is misunderstood and played with to supposedly correct all sorts of problems associated with the control valve. However, all this adjustment does is center the spool in the housing. If it is misadjusted, the steering tends to provide power assist more in one direction than the other. When severely misadjusted, the wheels may actually turn one direction by themselves due to the imbalance. For this reason it is important not to tamper with this adjustment unless you know how to do it properly. This adjustment has nothing to do with the tightness or looseness of the ball stud, the play in the valve assembly or the sensitivity of the system. Playing with the adjustment of the centering spring will probably violate your warranty. If you think that some adjustment needs to be made to your valve, always contact the supplier or rebuilder before proceding." Just a thought,.... hope this may help some.
Thanks for the reply. I am familiar with this adjustment. I've adjusted it between .1inch/lb to .95inch/lb. I think it was said on the 'stangers site' any more tighter and you risk damage. It did change the firmness to an extent, but not enough to remove what it's doing now. I do find it interesting that it would steer practically fine while the wheels are up (the little bit of toughness I felt going left could probably be adjusted with the screw on the end), but once on the ground both still and moving it's hard.
I am more of a Mustang guy, since that is what I had growing up. The PS on the Mustang is the same power assist that the Maverick uses. It would be my opinion that the power assist slave cylinder is leaking internally which is causing it to have less than adequate push and pull when operating the wheel.
