Sorry, but negative cable from battery pulled, keys out of the ignition and the oil light is on. I live in Seattle so we don't have sun, let alone enough to light up only one section of the dash. No battery under the front seat either. Unfortunately it is totally possible for this situation to happen. Now I just need to fix it.
Perfect. This will help track it down. Oh, and yes, keys out of the ignition, hanging on the rack inside the house, negative terminal on the battery disconnected and oil light is on. Goes out if you disconnect both negative and positive terminals on the battery though.
Sorry you are ****ed in the head. It is impossible, just impossible, you are smoking crack/heroin that makes you hallucinate, electrical energy can not complete the circuit, I learned this in 4th grade. get off the drugs and get back with me. Oh I am ASE master tech and been a tech on cars for 27 years.
Why are you being so confrontational? Did I do something to piss you off? I'm just asking questions about a subject I'm just now learning about. If you want to contribute to my posts, please do it with respect. I would be happy to hear your input (even if I've made a mistake) without you saying I'm "f••ked in the head".
Try pulling the bulb out of the gauge cluster. That will tell you if its the bulb or an alternate light source.
[QUOTE4. The ignition switch is brand new and I'm pretty sure I installed it properly. It had a lock pin in it and it dropped right in with the key in the lock position. No adjustments, just bolted it right in and pulled the pin. So all that being said, I still need to check a few things. I guess my original question should have been: How do I go about tracking down the short in the wiring from positive to ground that's causing my oil light to stay on? I figure I need to tackle that first, right?[[/QUOTE] These types of problems can be frustrating and sometimes you are better off just starting from the beginning and attacking it logically one step at a time. If you didn't have the electrical problem before you replaced the ignition switch, I would start there. Get a meter and make sure the circuit is indeed off when the key is in the off position. Follow a wiring diagram and check at the fuse box. It's possible you installed a brand new defective switch. It wouldn't be the first time....
I have given helpful info, you ignored it. You somehow believe that electrical energy can flow even with one cable hooked up. And have you changed the oil yet? If the oil was gassed down that bad, than the car will never run even with everything being perfect. Try setting up distributor with fuel line disconnected from pump so that you are not making it worse. buy a cheepie inline spark tester and first put it between coil and dist, if there is spark than try tester at each plug to narrow down lack of starting. then add fuel to the mix to see if it runs.
This car was purchased by a local Maverick enthusiast and brought to my shop to try to make it run. We discovered that the oil pump shaft had pulled out of the oil pump preventing the distributor to be fully installed. Then we noted 20° of crank rotation before cam movement. This showed a stretched timing chain and the plastic missing from the cam gear. I suspect the timing chain jumping to be the cause of the initial failure. The amount of sludge in the oil pan was huge and is plugging up the oil pump screen. We will be able to have this motor running soon. The oil pan does have a slight bulge to its sides from the explosion!
The gauge cluster in the car is out of a 70 Mav and I believe the oil light socket doesn't have a bulb in it. Light can shine through the back and illuminate the empty socket.
I have not looked in to that. It is was off with the battery disconnected. I suspect that's a mystery that will never be solved.
