I've found my 74 wiring differs a bit from my 74 wiring diagram. The diagram indicates that the wires on the blower motor switch lever go directly to the resistor. But, when looking at the switch in the car the wire colors are not the same as those at the resistor connector. What am I missing? Reason for asking is I don't have power to the resistor connector with the blower switch in the on position. I should have power at the resistor connector, correct. The fuse appears to be good.
did you check the...fuse holder...for that fuse to see if there is power going to it in the...switched on power...position?
My fuse box doesn't look like the 74 diagram but I was able to find the 14A fuse for the "heater". According to the diagram a brown/org wire provides power to the switch. With the key in the run position I have power on both sides of the fuse (all of them for that matter) so I have continuity through the fuse. There is a red wire going to the fan switch and I assume that is power. I would think I would have power to the switch with the key on at all times. Then, when the fan switch is moved to the on position I would have power at the resistor connector. I don't have power to the red wire with the ignition in the on position. If this is the correct power wire I've lost continuity between the fuse box and the switch. That is the problem, I can't find the brown wire so not sure I'm testing the correct wire.
Depending on when your car was produced you may want to check out a 73 or 75 diagram. Wasn't uncommon to change things as the model year change approached.
I'll provide a little more info, the wires at the resistor are the correct color on the diagram but they are not the same color at the heater control switch. Maverick1970, 73-75 show the same wiring for the heater control switch (http://www.maverickcomet.com/Wiring/Maverick.asp) with the wires from the switch to the resistor as the same color. Just so I'm understanding this correctly, the far right lever controls the vacuum motors and the middle lever simply controls by cable a door in the heater/AC box. So, this really isn't complicated I'm simply not seeing the same colored wires on the fan switch when compared to the resistor as the diagram states it should be! I should have power and ground to the switch with the two blue light bulb wires with the same color wires going from the switch to the resistor, I think!
Update For future reference! The wires coming from the resistor plug into a connector near the heater switch. The wires coming from this connector to the switch are different colors than the wires coming from the resistor. It also helps if you are not color-blind! Sometimes ya gotta shake your head! Now it is time for a . One more queston. Do you probe the wire with your test light at a connection or into the wire through the insulation . Something about sticking the probe through the insulation that doesn't sound right!
You can stick a safety pin through the insulation then touch the test light to the safety pin. The safety pin doesn't leave that big of a hole
I don't have the original bezel. But, the current bezel has the fan on the top left. What are your thoughts on the bezel picture?
the fan switch also turns the A/C compressor on...the middle lever switches from A/c to heat...the right leaver controls the amount of heat... in the heat mode the fan switch controls...high...med. and low...fan speeds. in the A/C mode the first click turns the compressor on..next is med. fan and then high fan.
Got it. I tested the switches in all modes. Also, wouldn't I have power to the switch with the key in the run position regardless of switch position. I tested what I think is the power wire to the switch and it isn't hot with the key on.
Yes, the ignition switch is in the on/run position as it would be when driving the car. In this position the fuse is hot on both sides. Quite sure the problem is between the fuse box and the switch.
