I may be wrong, but I don't think the shroud in front of the radiator will gain you anything other than possibly higher temps when moving down the highway. That will limit how much air will be able to get to the radiator while you're moving at speed. You need to have it behind the radiator and around the fan to make the fan pull thru the radiator rather than bypassing it. I'm not sure what options that gives you for shrouds if you don't have much room though. My fan sits just inside the shroud and I'm not even sure how I'd get mine on unless maybe I removed the radiator entirely 1st, put the shroud loosely around the fan, then put the radiator back in and then attach the shroud.
Flushing does very little to tell you the condition of the radiator. You only need about 6 of the tubes to be open and a 3/4" water hose will flow right thru them. The rest of the radiator could be blocked up. Have the radiator professionally rodded out or recored. It will be money well spent.
71Gold why do you say that? about the 50/50 coolant, what is the difference? I'm using 90/10... Thanks!!
You are absolutely correct! Pure antifreeze is actually a very poor conductor of heat! 50 - 50 mix provides the best freeze and boil over protection. The OP's 90 - 10 mix is part of his running hot problem!
50/50 Antifreeze. Good shroud with half the blade in and half out of the shroud. Seal the shroud to the radiator so it has to pull all air thru the radiator and not around it. Running hot at speed is a sign of a lack of flow. Either the radiator or water pump is probably junk or the engine has a lot of rust build-up inside. Last, if it's an aftermarket fan, be sure it's for a standard rotation water pump and not a reverse rotation pump. I have seen people fight cooling issues and find out the PO get rid of the car because it ran hot after he changed the fan. Check belt slippage, check that the cap actually holds the pressure it is rated at and pressure check the radiator/engine/complete system. My money is on the radiator or water pump. SPark
I always use a 160 thermostat in the summer, just to help the engine run cooler. I also run a flex fan that does draw more air flow at idle. But I did upgrade to a aluminum radiator from silla .
I had the exact same problem. Normal driving for the 1st 30 minutes was just fine and I ran between 190 and 210. After that the temp creeped up to 250+. Here's what I did: Check the timing! It turns out my timing was advanced beyond 10 degrees (I think it could have been closer to 20). Cost $ 0 I replaced the water pump with an aluminum pump from Jegs. Cost $95 http://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/16231/10002/-1 The thermostat was stuck open so I replaced it with a standard 190 thermostat from Autozone. Cost $8 Finally, the car was missing the fan shroud so I purchased a 1/2 shroud from Jegs as well. Cost $50 http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/9864/10002/-1 I can drive in 90 degree heat in the city and highway and it runs at a constant 180. In heavy traffic on a hot day it might creep up to 195. Good Luck!
Same problem... I bought a 3 row alum radiator ( fan included) http://www.ebay.com/itm/350698338062#ht_4623wt_1059 and the coolant container says 90%, Do I need to change for a 50%??? when I start the engine and after 20 min the temperature is increasing 190 - 200 - 220 ... and do not stop... on cruise road is about 190 - 200, but when I stop by traffic or something the temperature increasing fast!!! I thought was the radiator but although I install the new one the problem continues 2 months ago I rebuild the engine and the water pump looked good the only thing I changed is the cover. Help me please!!!
Interesting.. Hi there, I've been watching this thread with interest lately since the '71 Maverick I just picked up is having an overheating issue too..! So I've chatted with the Ford dealership in town and I'm taking the Maverick in for an appointment to have the water pump and it's pulley, the timing, and radiator's pressure checked in about five hours. Wait, why am I still awake..? Ack! Anyway, the mechanic who got me back on the road after overheating while trying to bring the Maverick home yesterday afternoon thought it's very likely that sediment/corrosion from the engine block is causing clogs in the radiator, since I had the latter flushed twice within three days. Both times, fluid was murky and has orange/rusty bits in it.. (and this was fresh fluid by the second time, since I saw the fresh stuff going in after the first flush!) and the second flush included the engine also, which was showing the same orange bits.. Well, good luck with yours! Hopefully it's not gunked up like mine! PS: I had just hand-washed and hand-dried my Maverick about 2 hrs before I took off and.. well, you can see the results of the overheating.. orange, all splattered around under the hood!! Luckily, the fluid that escaped the hood before I stopped wasn't cooked yet so wiped clear easily.
good luck with that. any shop can do a...pressure check...but I don't think anything will help until you get the gunk flushed out of the motor/radiator. JMO
You need to have a professional Radiator shop do the flushing for you! They have chemicals to get the corrosion out. Be ready to replace your freeze plugs!!! They are probably held together by rust! And is your fan shroud on? I didn't see it in the photos. I don't want to sound like the doomsday guy, but that cooling system has been totally neglected!
Thought I'd just make another post for this instead of an edit on the above one. Has anyone tried this product? My friend swears by it! http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?product=80204
Has anyone pointed out after while your anti freeze turns into a acid? This also eats at everything. I got this info from my schooling. Let the thermostat open early at 180 or 160 if in traffic. I always used a 160 for summer time driving, it kept the engine cooler.
