Maverick 351 swap

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Jim1969pa3, Aug 10, 2013.

  1. Jim1969pa3

    Jim1969pa3 Member

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    I have read on here about other people dropping in 351s and that there would be little room for changing plugs and installing headers. Many have said about chopping the shock towers, but I haven't seen any pictures of this.
    So I shot from the hip with about and inch chop. Someone please tell me if you see any limitations my job might have left me with.

    First Side Welded
    Before Weld
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2013
  2. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    I believe most tower chops are about 2"...That said, It helps with plug changes on a 351 in a mav but...It will only help somewhat with header clearance since the space issue is as much with the headers fitting past the frame rails as well as the towers on a 351 swap. All that said...I can change the plugs in my 351 powered sprint in 20 minutes...(That does include popping the engine of the mounts, and jacking it up about 3") The towers are not chopped (They have been banged on by a gorilla with a bfh) and it does have headers on it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2013
  3. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    If you haven't seen pics here, then you didn't look. There's been many, many pics posted here by members who've done this. Myself included. You could have cut another 3/4" to an inch to gain more room.
     

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    Last edited: Aug 11, 2013
  4. FishnRace

    FishnRace Jamie

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    [​IMG]


    This is about how much we cut out. I recommend you get some kind of export brace and/or Monte Carlo bar upgrades.

    Shock tower shave also helps with header install. I have the Crites 351W 1 3/4" headers.
     

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  5. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    Yet another one

    [​IMG]
     
  6. nelson

    nelson Member

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    Take Front tires off and remove the cover and weld inside shock towers to ...i cut mine back was racing it pulled shock tower out ...re welded the outside and welded the inside now it wont go nowere
     
  7. gulupo

    gulupo Member

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    if we install one of this coil overs, do you think we can go a little more deeper with the cuts?
     

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  8. GrabberGT

    GrabberGT Chris

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    You can but its till not going to get you any more header clearence. I've cut mine as far down as I can go and still have interference with headers where the upper control arm mounts. Thats the area you cannot cut. You could go to a strutt based suspension and cut out more since you will no longer have upper control arms.
     
  9. Jim1969pa3

    Jim1969pa3 Member

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    Help!

    I don't know if I was clear about what I am trying to do but I am having serious problems.
    I scrapped the whole header plan for now.
    I have mounted the stock 302 exhaust manifolds.
    This is REALLY tight. It also looks like I may have a clearance issue the steering box.
    I thought I researched enough... Has anyone ever accomplished this?
     
  10. Jim1969pa3

    Jim1969pa3 Member

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    Also, it looks like I might have to pull the transmission and install it after the engine because its that tight I cant get the engine on the angle I need to line up the tranny.

    I'm all hung up at the spot where the control arm mounts. IF i get it dwn in there, it's almost going to have to go straight down. But then I hit the steering box.

    I have a splitting headache.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2013
  11. 351 celi

    351 celi Member

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    I fit the 351 with no tower mods by milling the casting rib of stock 302 manifolds and a small chamfer to steering box. No hammer. What mounts are you using? I've got f150 motor mounts with flipped and trimmed I6 framerail mounts.
     
  12. Jim1969pa3

    Jim1969pa3 Member

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    Thank you for your reply. I have the original 302 Motor mounts. I also have two other mounts that I believe were out of a 77 mustang, but they look like they would put my mounting holes too close together. I don't really have then identified so I will try to get over there and snap a picture of them in case anyone can help there.

    I also have two that I believe are from an 86 F-350. They have a single threaded stud on the bottom centers. They may be more like the ones you have but I haven't figured out hoe to make that work.

    I did however guess that the ribs on the manifolds had to go. I removed about half of the thickness of the ribs on the right one. I was afraid to take them down smooth. I thought maybe that would effect the integrity of them.

    Did you remove all of the rib?

    One other question. On the steering box, it looks like if I used other motor mounts and raised the engine I could have more interference issues with the steering box and possibly the transmission linkage. Did your configuration raise the engine at all? or did you use the other mounts because they are stronger. At lease those look more substantial to me.

    This project is going to go a touch slower. Just started a job that is six 11 hour days. So this Sunday will be the first day I can go for it again.
     
  13. 351 celi

    351 celi Member

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    I used the truck motor mounts because I did not have the 302 frame mounts. Another member mentioned the I6 frame mounts could be used once flipped and trimmed.

    I removed nearly all the rib on both sides. The steering box chamfer may not even be needed, as I tried that first prior to removing the ribs. The manifolds have been on for 3 years, no cracks.

    My motor sits very low, so much in fact, full turn to each side, the centerlink touched the oil pan. I had no issue using the column shifter linkage when I had the C4 behind it.

    I will be doing some steering and suspension work on Saturday, I'll try to post a few pics of the clearances. You can get it in there with the tranny already in place, I did it without an assistant, very slow, lots of wiggling!
     
  14. 71mavk

    71mavk Member

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    If you shave the towers and use the 302 stock manifolds, it will fit. I've taken the motor in and out many times by myself with no issues. By the way, it is best to put the motor in with the tranny attached to it. You will have less than 1/2 inch clearance on both sides (manifold to the wall). Good luck, the 351 is a fun motor on the Maverick.
     

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  15. olerodder

    olerodder Member

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    I agree with 71MavK on putting the trans and motor in as a unit.
    My 351w has a Moroso pan which makes it a little harder to get in, but I did this myself with no help.
     

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