Power Disc Brakes to Manual Disc Brakes ???

OK thanks, I'm looking forward to picts...

 

pics......brace pics later

 

55crown what is that MC from please ?

 

Page 1 has that info, but heres the link again....... http://www.ebay.com/itm/370742738862?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 I looked at NAPA also, and it was there for $38, I however, got mine from the local u pull and pay, from a 89 Ford Ranger or Bronco II, will give it a try before I buy a new one. I really like how it sits in there. Will try and get pics tonite of the tower braces, to see how much they are in the way.

 

I have a pic of my old mav with the same setup, but with a granada M/C, showing the clearance with factory tower braces, if anyone is interested

 

That's sweet 55, I like what I see Thanks!!!!

I have a power brake MC om mine, should be same as Granada... No doubt the brace must be removed to remove MC but that's minor...

 

Yes, to remove the m/c you would want to remove the brace anyway, but you can fill the reservoir with them on, no sweat, here are a few pics of my ranger m/c and the brace........

 

So how close are the upper studs to fitting into the upper holes in the factory pedal/column mount??? Also a Ford MC mounts without issue??? Does it have a adjustable rod for setting depth into MC???

 

About half way down this page are the pics of the booster bolts in the firewall, http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?p=977140#post977140 the only original hole used is the big one that the rod goes thru to the pedal, all the other holes need to be drilled. To mount any ford m/c to the 7 inch booster that I used, the holes in the m/c need to be widened with a file or reamer tool on a die grinder, then they go together nice. The booster comes with an adjustable bolt for setting the depth, but I changed mine to a longer bolt for security. Got that at Ace hardware, it has a allen head on it.

 

Questions: The brake sw is on the master, instead of in the car?
Do U think that setup wud work w/ a car that only has 14-15lbs of vac?

 

The brake switch remains in the stock location, at the pedal, not being an expert on vaccuum, I cant say for sure about your question, but I am sure someone else will chime in on that. Dont know how much vac is required for a booster.

 

After I did this post I just did a search on the vac quesiton and 17lbs seems to be the min. require for using booster w/o some kind of aux vac pump. I only have 15lbs the last time I ck mine. If I ever hve to replace my cam I will definitely go to something w/ more vac. The engine was in the car and recently rebuilt when I got it; it's just a driver so as long as it runs like it does now - goin to just driver it. Thanks for sharing ur project -- following the thread.

 

Great info and pictures 55 - thanks for taking the time to share your set up. I like what you have done. I will check some measurements and set up on my 77 Maverick. I need to make sure the booster will clear my cylinder head / rocker cover and also check my pedal / bracket set up.

 

I was doing some measuring and checking my brake pedal assembly set up today. I have come to the conclusion that I do not have room for a booster. My plan is to go with the manual set up I removed from my 74 parts car. I was trying to understand why the pedal assembly needs to be changed and maybe Craig you could help me with that?
My 77 automatic, power disc brake car has the pedal coming down the left side of the steering column and the 74 automatic, standard drum brake car has the pedal coming down the right side of the steering column.
I know I must be missing something

 

I wouldn't worry about why. It has to do with the angle and geometry of everything. Power brakes on Mavericks was an afterthought. `If you are going to go with manual brakes, just use the bracket and pedal assembly from the '74.