Levi Zoesch Pro-Touring 69 Ford Maverick MEGA Build

!!!! yes !!!!

Everytime I look at this car, my mind goes off and I have to head to the garage to figure out how I can do it

I realllllllly wish I could find build pictures of the car that are indepth. The pics on the site really dont show very much.

There is another mustang that I have some inspiration from. It was at sema, and all over Discovery Channel, car sites etc. Not my fav car, but I really like some of the design elements, especially the dash and how they built it with Foam.



I really love how the bumper and everything was made out of fresh steel, and everything is so crisp. I am going to do a similar route, and using Bob (mavrocket) grabber spoiler gonna use as a template for some new steel sheet. With the amount of custom stuff I want to do to the car, I am probably looking at another 2 years of stuff haha.











This hood isnt from this build, but I like how they stole the Grabber hood and got it to work with the Mustang. If I can find good hood for a Mustang I will graph it onto a Maverick hood frame.

 

I like the Mustang, and how they grafted the Grabber hood onto the Mustang hood................very nice.

Ok, here is the link to Phil's build and it should have before and after pictures of the Wilwood clutch/brake/throttle.

http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=85206&highlight=phil+waller

Phil is a great guy and I'm sure will answer any questions you have.

 

You are definitely going more toward "Pro Touring" than "Pro Street"!

If you mount the pedals to the floor you will need to plumb residual valves in the system to keep the fluid from bleeding back to the cylinders.

SPark

 

For 4 wheel disc brakes, I always used the blue 2 pound residual valves that Summit sells for my stock cars - they had Tilton pedals mounted on the floor and everything worked fine - red 10 pound ones for drum

 

Thanks for the links above guys. Seeing all those(and these) killer projects makes me wish I'd have gone to welding school. Or at least done some more major sheetmetal reconstruction work on lessor cars before I decide to dump 20k into one I plan on keeping nearly forever. lol


I've always wondered about doing these concealed style rocker exhausts and this is sweet. I'd be seriously concerned about paint degradation and scalding the P outta' my legs on the way in and out though. Not to mention the vibration transmission associated with its design.

 

By using a ceramic coating on the interior of the pipe you will never have any problems with heat reaching much over 100 degrees F...even on a hot day.
I started doing interior ceramic coating on my V8 flathead exhaust ports which reduced the temperature by almost 150 degrees. The coating will withstand 2000 degrees and when coating the interior and of a header you can put your hand on the outside without getting burned.

 

Good to know


Did some measurements of the Driver side Torque Box of how I want the new flat plate to fall in, to re-box everything. Trying to get exact measurements to turn over to the burn table to punch out. 5x checked everything and pretty pleased.

Did a cardboard template that fits snuggly in the spot I want, and then transferred it over to Illustrator to export as a AutoCad file for the table.

Hopefully, I can get some time to finish cleaning the area to get ready for the correct length 2x3 stock metal, and the new torque box plate. I know I have to take into consideration the 2x3 coming out of the torque box, but that should be very simple to punch out a square piece after this plate has been done on the burn table.

More than likely I will be going with a .120 gauge (1/8th) plate to be extra sure. I will also be adding Gussets behind this plate so the center cant cave in, Ill probably do 2 maybe 3 every 3-4 inches across.

Thoughts?



Picture of the cardboard coming in a sec.



The grid is 1/2" grid.

 

I don't want to start getting on your bad side again here bud.. but that's absolutely not true about the touchy feely part. I'm not saying it doesn't help, because it's very noticable and well documented with a temp gun(in the order of around 50% at times).. just that you may not be checking those temps after the motor has been run very hard. It helps radiant temps to great degrees but you still cannot touch a coated pipe for very long at all because they still run well over 300+ degrees.

Case in point is the last 2 motors I've done with coated headers(inside and out).. one of them being my current Blazer motor. Even with exhaust wrap added to the mix(and yes, it does cause premature coating failures, especially in the bends and collector area).. you cannot hold your hand on the headers in any location very long at all. In fact.. after running it hard and immediately popping the hood.. you can still barely touch the coated/wrapped pipes for much more than a half second or so without major discomfort. And touching "coated only" headers with bare skin after full heat has built up will teach you a very quick lesson about advertising hype. Anyone with a motorcycle running coatings will attest to the same thing as well.

Clearly in this case, that pipe isn't coated either.. and even if it was prior to installation/welding.. it would flake the coating off at the weld points which only leads to premature failures after repeated heat cycling has occured. I know, because I've welded coated pipes many times. It would have to be done after the finishing process. And then there's the fact that coating only the interior will not have nearly the benefit as coating both interior and exterior.

IMO, in such a design, to avoid rocker heat buildup it would be mandatory to wrap the exterior of the pipe housed in that rocker with insulation(kinda like a muffler) even after coating inside and out. Even then though.. weld points between the two parts would transfer much heat and potentially damage glossy paints in those areas over time. Not as big a deal with a show car running satin finishes of course, but any other would likely have to run hi-temp paint.. or at least additives.. on those rockers for the long run. Not to mention paying attention when you enter and exit while wearing shorts.

Again.. not wanting to argue or debate it.. that's just been my experience with coatings for the past 25+ years or so after coming exclusively from header wraps(based on Smokey Yunick's high recommendation). I also run internal coatings on my engines too. Expensive.. but they work nicely in cumulative fashion with external coatings. My Comet GT motors current build will have piston tops, valve faces including the exhaust valves underside, and combustion chamber coatings. As I'm sure you well know by now.. it's all cumulative and there's power in those little details.

 

Love it, keep having fun. I know I always did in the garage.

 

Bob,

How's the footroom around/between the pedals? I'm contemplating the Wilwood version for my Rambler but my size 12's may have an issue with these...

 

Not really comparing apples to apples here, Russ - the race car had a racing seat mounted way back so the driver pretty much sat right on the floor with his legs almost straight out and not bent like in a stock vehicle - I never had aftermarket pedals in a street car before but I don't have any foot room in my SX4 around or between the pedals anyway

 

What's an SX4?

 

It's that little all wheel drive Suzuki covered in snow behind my son's red Acura Integra - kind of remind you of Chicago - maybe just a little LOL!

 

I'm not here to argue bud, I've done it a couple of times in the past few years and it works just as I said...........so I am just hypothesizing that your vast experience or knowledge of current coating technology(UHTC's) is somewhat limited or you wouldn't have made the comment about not being able to touch the header(without getting burned) when the motor was shut down.
If you are getting your information from header manufactures maybe you
need to get a second opinion...................enough said.

 

I can understand having differences, but lets not derail the thread guys

I love the experience you all are bringing, and the ideas for my build -- so keep it coming.

<3