Levi Zoesch Pro-Touring 69 Ford Maverick MEGA Build

Sorry, I guess I got carried away and didn't mean any disrespect to you or this thread.........it won't happen again.

 

lol np boss

 

Fair enough. I was simply trying to add MY personal real world experience so you didn't misunderstand the true reality of these types of coatings if you decide to use them (and I would highly recommend it). They often help considerably in sealed engine compartments(such as stock unvented setups)that use open element type air filters(you can even change jets/ignition curves since they work so well at times) and slowing heat degradation of near proximity parts. But the real proof is in the pudding and I see literally dozens.. even hundreds if I make more "unsanctioned events" in a year.. of guys running the stuff that know firsthand that you can't touch the headers regardless of the advertising hype. In fact.. if you tried to prove that the coatings can easily be touched after their run?.. they'd gather around to watch and get a big laugh out of the deal while simultaniously trying to take your cash in the process with bets. lol From a skin removing 3rd degree burn to blistering 2nd degree burn is still hot in anyones book.

And then there's that fact is that temps and reductions for these products is measured at an inch or more from the actual surface itself.. so there's that too.

Also worth noting is that header wrap cannot be "touched" for very long after full-throttle runs either and it's rated considerably higher for temp drops than "cool looking ceramics" with the downside of not protecting the metal in the process. As I mentioned above.. using both processes nearly gives the best of both worlds with slight reductions in coating lifespan and at the risk of cracking thinner pipes. I've seen small heat cracks in the 16 guage stuff but never in 14 guage pipes.

Anywho.. the info was aimed much more towards improving your learning curve than someone who believes these coatings can be touched despite the fact that I quoted them. Kind of a cumulative sharing sorta thing. If you go that route in the long run.. you'll surely figure it out yourself anyways. Everyone I know has had to touch the coatings after spending all the extra cash on it just to rate the hype.

After all that tangent talk.. are you running entirely new floor pans after rerailing the middle of the car?

Or just carving channels into the existing pans to run the new stuff?

 

Finally got the correct size piece I need, also had some gussets made for it. Currently welding up the new rear portion of the "cart" I made so I can move the car. I am hoping the measurements and math I did are correct to have the car level. We'll see :/ If not, then im up the creek

Wife ran to get food, watchin my daughter in the meantime then I will be back out there hitting it hard.

Also, I am freaking sick of this damn flux core welder. I think I am gonna spend my xmas money to get a good argon gas mig. Sick of trying to remove all the slag.

 

i shaved my towers & repaired fender apron with flux core...never will i use it again on a vehicle...you will be so much happier with the gas mig.. treat yourself, in the end you will save more then hours....almost days!

 

We use C25 around here, straight argon is for TIG and aluminum...

 

The only thing I had built using flux core were my roll over attachments from my chassis to the stands - a friend of mine needed to get rid of some flux core wire and had a 220 machine - that really burned into the 1/4 inch steel of the brackets - car would never break it

 

I've been using a Miller 160 MIG for quite a few years, used flux core with Argon/Oxygen shielding gas, 70/30. The shielding gas makes a world of difference.........IMHO

 

I hate this little welder. Nothing I do holds very well, and if I can get it to hold there is so much material and slag everywhere that it makes the weld look like crap.

Ive been poking at everyone in the family to get me a welder so well see... If not, I am going to buy one and put off the backhalf kit.


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Although, I was able to do a nice clean weld on the chassis piece I just got cut to size. Little grinding and it should be good to go. I will more than likely go back over the weld with a clean mig/tig and be done -- Not to worried about it cracking because there will be gussets and flat plate plug welded to the tubing for extra support.

 

What are the thoguhts of removing the frame rails, torque boxes, and well basically the entire floor pan, and rebuild everything rather easily.

Front frame rails = Mustang Repop -- Simple $150
Torque Boxes = make maybe 75$ in metal and labor to bend.
Rear frame clip would be by Chris Alston's Chassisworks -- I will be purchasing end of the month or waiting until my birthday to pile up the xmas/birthday money $550 shipped.
Rob & Customs front cross-member - 600$ shipped -- i should be getting a bonus for end of year.

Slip new "chassis" into the new car and mount paralleled to the rockers on a level plain.

$1400. Build floor + firewall = New car w/ old shell

 

You are going so far, why not just get a Pro Touring chassis from Art Morrison. You are basically cutting/modifying every piece. That would allow you to get your wide tires on front and back, lower stance and more. You would also end up with an engineered product in the end.

SPark

 

I think Levi is much like myself - more fun to design and do it yourself

 

I fill the tip of my flux core with blue splatter shield I got at tractor supply . it hardly makes any slag at all.

 

Don't know what wire you are using. The Lincoln flux core that came with my Lincoln welder was pretty crappy. A professional welder told me to get Hobart FabShield 21B. Runs much smoother and very little slag compared to the other stuff, I use it for everything now.