x2 on this method. Last winter I had a gurgling system I couldn't get to shut up. Local shop suggested this method. I filled this way, problem solved.
When I add the drilled thermostat and I begin to fill the cooling system via the heater hose closest to the thermostat, do I start with a drained system or can I add to the existing fluid? Also do I leave the radiator cap on during this process? Also do I put the car on ramps for this method or not? Also do I put the heater lever on hot? (Obviously I can't run the engine) but after it's topped off, do I start it to settle the fluid and then add more fluid via the heater hose again? Could you give me a detailed step-by-step of the process? You know, Cooling System Filling for Dummies. Lol
as before, I fill and run my engines in without T-stat. some T-stats have a wiggle valve in them. I clip off the wiggler and size the hole larger...(place the hole to the top when installing)
All that's necessary is remove the upper heater hose & radiator cap, coolant that's already in the engine is fine... This method allows the block and radiator both to vent so isn't necessary to remove thermostat even if it doesn't have a weep/vent hole... It's actually better than filling without a thermostat as you won't have to partially drain, then take it apart to install the stat after run in... The 6cyl are easy to remove/install the stat but there are other things I'd rather do than mess with a smallblock t-stat, especially with A/C...
How can I tell if my Tstat is fried without removing it? I got up to 240 degrees so I assume it's bad.
If heating was due to low coolant no t-stat can help that... Since we don't really know it wasn't the stat and temp was roughly 50* higher than the design of the stat, probably would be a good idea to swap it out... The excess heat could have caused damage or maybe skewed it's calibration... If you try it without changing the t-stat, carefully watch temp till it's open and coolant circulating... With the t-stat out you can fill radiator till the coolant is ready to exit the t-stat opening in the head before reinstall, then finish filling through the heater hose as I described before...
Krazy. Can the heater hose method be done without a Tstat weep hole? And if it HAS to be there, what size hole? 1/8"? If it needs to be drilled, Where do I drill it? And do I install it with the hole up or down?
A weep hole isn't necessary when filling with the upper heater hose disconnected... They've deleted the hole in stat for newer vehicles and installed a vent in in the system, when opened is basically same as filling with hose removed...
Ok, so we installed a new VC breather, purged the air from the cooling system, topped it off, ran and drove it. Drove for about 20-30 minutes after a 5-10 minute warm up in the driveway. Once warmed up, the temperature stayed at around 170 degrees, and the oil pressure stayed at around 55 psi. So do those numbers sound good? It ran and drove just fine.
Well numbers aren't bad but assuming the T-stat is a 180*, it's running a little cool which would likely indicate it's opening a bit soon... Of course if your local temps are in the 20/30s it's probably OK... Is this the one that was already installed???
It was around 30 degrees out. Freezing rain and icy. Working outside in this mess so we left the original Tstat in for now. Figured we'd just see what happens. Idk what the Tstat temp is for sure, but I'd guess it's a Duralast 192 degree. Bc we bought it for like $8 at Autozone and that's what they stock.
Engine temp would effect the heat. The heater was barely luke warm. But idk if the heater core is bad or not so I didn't base much on that. I don't think the HC is leaking, or if the windshield is leaking. Slightly damp rug. Blotted it but it didn't look line antifreeze.
this may seem silly but i had a defective pump once. new, damn impeller fell off (?) and while the car ran 'ok' it never overheated but the big indicator was the heater not working. for 2 days it ran abit warmer than normal but heater was no go. after i determined there was no flo i removed the thermostat, replaced it, then moved onto the ater pup. found the impeller in the block. lol. run car with rad cap off and verify flow
