I have a black consolette with the block off plate, I really want the clock to go in it! Anybody got one they wanna sell?
I tested the clock today, the lights work (both) but the clock itself is inop. I'll pull it apart and see if I can see where the fault is. The button (time set) appears to work as designed with full rotation around the dial. We'll see!
I think I'll put my clock on ebay and see what it brings. I have to repair a wire but it works. Doesn't keep time like all the rest.
I got the clock working again, long story short there are two sets of contact breaker points inside. Filed them and then finished the surfaces with 2000 grit paper. Then cleaned and lubed the “pivot” points of the watch gears. Took me about six hours to go through it and figure out how to disassemble it, how it operates and how to fix it. If there is enough demand, I can do a write up. Not sure how many people might be interested in fixing clocks though? It’s pretty fiddly and that’s stating it mildly!
I think it would be a good idea to do a write up on your clock repair - most of us will never need it but for those who have non-working clocks, this may be the only chance we get to read about how it was done
I'll write it up, I've still got it apart so I'll take a few more pictures etc... As long as we have some interest, then it's worth doing the documentation.
Your Tech Article may help increase the price of these, and make some wish they never got rid of theirs! Looking forward to the write-up.
Posted the how to, see link below. I may make changes as needed! Thanks fellas! http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?p=996981#post996981
Moved on to the next steps for restoring the consolette, disassembled it completely, striped the paint from the metal lid and re-keyed the locks tumbler to my key set. Next up, prepping the plastic box for paint. Not sure how I’m going to do that? I want to keep as much of the texture as possible, the more paint applied will fill in the little nooks and crannies. Not too keen on chemical strippers either, might melt the plastic? If anybody has a good technique let me know, I sure would appreciate the input! Thanks!
How did you re-key the lock? My locksmith said he couldn't do it. And maybe some sort of light media blasting would work on the plastic console.
So it would be easier to explain if I had some pictures but I’m at work so I’ll explain it the best I can. First, take the pin out of the locking lever, the tumbler will come out of the housing. Once you have it out, you’ll see a half moon brass keeper. The keeper is held in place by two punches on either side of the keeper. File the housing down along the edge of the keeper to allow the keeper to be removed. On the top of the housing itself is a stainless steel cover plate holding in the springs and locking pins. You’ll need gently pry up the cover plate and remove the three springs and six locking pins. You’ll notice the lock pins are different sizes, you’ll mix and match the three bottom pins to the three top pins to create a flush surface along the top of the tumbler (when your key is in the lock). I had to do some light filing to come up with a flush surface mine but once its flush, the tumbler will operate just like it was the original key. I then cleaned all the parts, reassembled in the reverse order and re-pined the half-moon keeper. The lock smith likely didn’t want to do it because they really aren’t designed to be re-keyed like a normal lock. However, it can be done.
Kevin, To strip paint, I often use brake clean. Test it in a small unseen area to make sure it does not eat the plastic. If it doesn’t, wet a small area and let the paint bubble. Use a tooth brush to loosen and wash away with more brake clean. Since they are originally black, and, if that is the color you are going with, you might not need to paint. Painting panels can be tricky. I have been using Krylon Fusion flat black to get a paint to adhere. I then top it with a coat of trim black to get a reasonable color match. I'm going to have the silver edges pin striped to match the exterior paint. Micah
A trick from building model cars is that you can use oven cleaner to strip paint ... works really well and never hurt polystyrene, leaves it like brand new. But wear gloves because it will gnaw the skin off your fingers. That console may be a different type of plastic, so with anything you try, test it in an inconspicuous spot first.
