Consolette Clock Repair Before beginning, it’s likely helpful to understand how the clocks basic functions work. There are essentially three components, the mechanical clock, the electromagnetic winder and the time set mechanism. For our purposes, we will be focusing on the mechanical clock and electromagnetic winder components. The mechanical clock works much like any clock of the 1970’s, once wound, it ticks just like any manually wound clock would. The electromagnetic component is activated once the contact breaker points close completing the circuit. When the circuit is complete, the electricity activates a magnetic field actuating the winding lever. The lever itself only moves about one quarter inch, winding the mechanical clock. When the lever reaches its full travel, the circuit is broken returning the winding lever to its original position. At full wind, the clock will tick down about fourth five seconds, then the contact breaker point’s touch, completing the circuit and the whole process starts again. If either component is faulty, the clock will not operate. Below are the steps I took to resolve my particular clock issues. As is all things, there are like several ways to fix similar and or related issues. Tools needed, flathead screw driver, micro flathead, lubricant (I used 3n1 oil), small needle nose pliers (I used a Leatherman), micro file, 2000 grit paper, multi-meter, two test leads (wires with alligator clips or you can use the pin type but you’ll have to hold the leads in place to power the clock). Also, it would be very helpful to use some type of magnification while working on the clock, I used two sets of eye glasses to zoom in on the details. Step 1. Make absolute certain you need to fix the clock! Fixing the clock can be very fiddly and may require a lot of patience. The components are small and delicate, so use caution. Step 2. Remove the lights and wiring from the back plate. Pull off the ground and power wires. Then remove the lights, they are press fit into the back plate, a small flathead screw driver between the back plate and light socket is all that is needed. Be careful though, the plastic is 40 years old so easy does it. Step 3. Remove the back plate. There are eight bent tabs along the back plate and the front plate (clam shell). Pry each of the eight tabs back and carefully split the two pieces in half. Remove the clock and clock face from the housing. *Note, the clocks plastic face will not be separated from the clock mechanism and you will likely find carbon dust or black char inside the housing, both are normal. Step 4. Inspect the clock components, make sure there are no loose or broken parts or pieces floating around inside the housing. This step is very important, if there are broken parts, to my knowledge, nobody is manufacturing them so likely your clock will not be fixable without replacing them. Even more important than the last sentence, don’t through your clock away. Somebody someday may need your parts or will have parts that you need to fix your clock! However, if everything looks in order, move on to Step 5. Step 5. Test the clocks manual operation, our aim is to see if the clocks mechanism works without the “electromagnetic” winding operation. We’ll address the electronics’ in later steps. A) Manually wind the clock, the clock should work when wound manually. See figure below, turn the sprocket counterclockwise one quarter inch or about an eighth of one full turn. You should hear and feel the gear clicking when turned. Check to see if the clock starts working, if not move on to the next step. B) Kick start the clock after manually wound. Lightly spin the below sprocket clockwise, all it will take is a gentle touch, moving the sprocket ever so lightly. (It’s likely the clock has not worked for many years so you may need to nudge it to get it going. If it starts, it will run for about forty five seconds. Then, wind it again manually until you have confidence that’s it going to run when wound.) C) If the clock still does not run on its own, lubricate the below points. Then manually wind it again, give it a nudge and see if it starts. At this point, it should run, if not move on to step 5D. D) Inspect the sprocket you just nudged clockwise. It should be “free” of any drag. If there is drag and moves only one or two increments, you will need to loosen the adjustment screw on the top of the sprocket shaft. It should not take more than a very slight turn, the thickness of maybe three pieces of paper (best tool for the job is a micro or jewelers flathead). E) Proceed with CAUTION!!! When adjusting the sprocket shaft adjustment screw, we will be turning the screw in minuet increments. All you want to do, is make sure the sprocket has free movement, it should bounce back and forth freely, multiple times. If you go too far, the sprocket assembly will become unseated. If this happens, you will need to reseat the assembly by positioning the shaft back in its cradle (needle to seat, top and bottom), then tighten the adjustment screw to secure it back into position. When completed, re-lube both shaft ends, manually wind and test for operation. Once the clock portion is working correctly, it’s time to inspect the electromagnetic components. There are two contact breaker points, the main contact breaker point is used to activate the winding lever. The secondary contact breaker point is used to release the level back to its original position. *Note, my thoughts on checking the mechanical component first is this. If the mechanical portion does not work, there is no since in fixing the electromagnetic portion. Even if the clock is wound, it still won’t run. Now, even if the clock does not run, it may be worth trying to fix the electromagnetic component. Doing so may “free up” whatever is cause the mechanical component to fail. Step 6. Inspect the main contact breaker point, likely you will find it pitted on both sides. Step 7. Inspect the secondary contact breaker point, likely you will find it pitted on both sides. Step 8. Clean the main contact breaker point, unscrew the three screws that hold the electromagnetic component to the mechanical clock. *Note, this will release the winding spring. Be very careful and try to control the unwinding process. It’s not a lot of tension but its best to release it carefully. Once the spring has become unwound, carefully remove the spring from the “post”. This will allow you to re finish side “A” of the main contact breaker point. A) Use a nail file or other micro file to refinish side “A”. Once you have a flattened thee surface and removed all the pits, use 2000 grit sand paper to smooth out the surface as best as possible. Just like a distributer that used points, the surfaces with need to be as smooth as possible to gain the maximum life span out of them. B) Perform the same operation to side “B” of the main contact breaker point. Located on the electromagnetic component of the clock. C) Under side “B” of the contact breaker point is the secondary contact breaker point that opens the circuit allowing the winding lever to return to its normal position. For the secondary contact breaker point, I used a double sided micro file with a little pressure on top sandwiching the micro file. Once flat, resurface both sides with 2000 grit paper to smooth it out as much as possible. Step 9. Clean all contact breaker point surfaces with Isopropyl alcohol. Step 10. Clean the winding spring with Isopropyl alcohol, I carefully used a que tip and rubbed it from tip to tip all along the surface front to back. We don’t want any grease on this spring, it should move freely as it winds and unwinds. Step 9. Reassemble the winding mechanism, secure the spring back onto the post. Then, gently wind the sprocket counterclockwise. Make sure the spring is winding inside its cradle. Step 10. While still holding the wound spring, carefully reattach the electromagnetic component to the top of the three posts, make sure to align the winding sprocket shaft to the hole in the plate. Also, insure the main contact breaker point “A” is in the correct position, facing the main contact breaker point “B”. Step 11. Screw the three screws back onto the three posts. Test the clocks mechanical function again by winding the clock manually and see if it works. We’ll want to make this final check before we put electricity to it. If it works proceed to Step 12, if not go back to Step 5. Step 12. Devise a suitable 12v outlet. I used an open wire under the dash that had constant power to it. I tested the lead with the multi-meter to insure 12v. Step 13. Connect a ground wire to the base plate of the mechanical clock component. Step 14. Connect power lead to the power post. Step 15. Manually wind the clock, then look through breaker point view window. When the points connect, the electromagnetic circuit will be complete and it will fire causing the winding lever to automatically wind the clock. As the clock ticks down, about forty five seconds or so it should fire again and again and again allowing the clock to run on its own. Step 16. If it does not continually fire, recheck all breaker points. Once you are satisfied with the operation, continue onto step 17. Step 17. Reassemble the clock and the housing in the reverse order it came apart, re-bend the tabs back together and reinstall. A) At this point you have an option to repaint the inside of the clock to make it brighter (just like the dash light fix some of you may be familiar with). I choose to leave mine the original color but cleaned as much of the carbon off as possible. I used Isopropyl alcohol and elbow grease. B) Also, consider color matching your needles! Perfect time to refresh the paint and clean the dust off the clock face! Video of the working clock. Slideshow of all pictures taken: http://s325.photobucket.com/user/kboldin/slideshow/Clock Summary: I hope that I helped, fixing the clock can be fiddly at best. The work can be downright tedious at times and the parts are fragile. With that said, there is satisfaction knowing that you can fix it. They can be repaired! Even though they don’t keep accurate time and most people likely shelve them due to noise or other reasons. I think it’s nice to have them working as designed, ticking away with all their little clicks, ticks and funny little whirling noises! Cheers!!! P.S. Apologies to all the clock makers out there, I’m certain I’ve misnamed the components, please forgive me!
I was just thinking that this should really belong in the "Tech Articles" sub forum - I'm sure an Admin could move it for you intact
Hi I have read your instructions on the consolette clock repair. I have gotten my clock working properly, but after a few days of running it gains several minutes as if running fast, but looking at it tick it looks like its running normal speed. Is there any kind of adjustment for speed on these clocks? I would appreciate any information you could give me Thanks
I'm about 99% certain its the Adj. screw in the attached picture. Tight = Slower/ Loose = Faster, that said its 1970's automotive clock technology. I got mine working within about 5 minutes per week, runs a little quick. When I take it out for a drive, I adjust the time, which is close enough for me. Even spot on, I don't think they will ever maintain time over time. Glad you got yours working, always fun to know that you have helped somebody in some small way! By the way, my clock has been ticking along since this post 2 years ago!!!!
Thanks for the information, I will tighten the adjustment screw slightly and see if it makes a difference
