Good deal (walking away). I've had to do that several times to mine (hmmmm....maybe that's why I haven't had it down the track yet). Reminder: I don't know if the T'bird had a Barometric Pressure Sensor, but I had to add that one back on (my buddy got a little too carried away). It seemed to smooth the idle out somewhat. Have yaself a 'sodee water' and get back at it later.
Rick, no the 88 t-bird does not have a barometric pressure sensor. I would have ran acrossed it by now. its pretty basic actually,,, I learned, for these conversions,, alot of that spagetti is not needed. I removed the TAB, and the TAD sensors,,, They are vacuum operated switches,,, I can put em back in if I need to,, But the ol t-bird when it was runnin with the efi, wasnt even hooked up when I got the car. Right now, Ive got the computer harness down the basics, I can list them all if you want,, or just easier to list the pin numbers,,, LOL! On the distributor,,, there is 3 wires that Im thinking that thats where I will wire in the key switch for the ign Im also thinking of toggle switching the main power to the computer,,, That may be alot of voltage to run off the old ign switch and burn it up. So, toggle switch the main computer, that will activate the fuel pump, and the EFI,, and let the key switch run the start, run, start/run, and coil. Ground wires,,,, Im wondering if a body ground would be sufficent, or run it to the battery,,,,, there is 4 ground wires,, pin 60, pin 49(hego) pin 40 pwr ground, and pin 20, case ground. Pin#'s 1(KA power) 37, (V power) 57 (v power) are the hot wires,,, Wonder if those should be the toggle switched. away from the key. Sorry for the long post,,, just thinking out loud,,,, Chad
Color, and pin locations, for a 88 t-bird computer and efi. 1. black/orange stripe. KA power 2. blank 3.dark green and white. VSS+ 4.Green and white, IDM 5. blank 6. orange/yellow stripe, VSS- 7. light green/yellow stripe, ECT 8. blank 9. blank 10. pink/blue stripe AC-on No ac so I removed it 11.green/black stripe, TAD. (removed) 12. brown/yellow stripe inj #3 13. brown/light blue stripe inj#4 14. brown/dark blue stripe, inj #5 15. light green, inj #6 16. black/orange stripe, ign ground 17. yellow/black stripe, STO 18. blank 19. blank 20. blank 21. white/blue stripe IAB 22. light brown/green stripe FPR 23. blank 24. blank 25. purple/green stripe ACT 26. orange/white stripe Volt Ref 27. brown/dark green stripe EGR sensor 28. blank 29. turquoise/purple stripe, R- HEGO 30. brown/white stripe NDS 31. grey/yellow stripe CANP 32. blank 33. Dark green, EGR solenoid 34. light blue/ pink stripe,????? 35. blank 36. yellow/light green stripe, SPOUT 37. black/ light green stripe V-POWER 38. blank 39. blank 40. black/dark green. ground 41. blank 42. tan/orange stripe INJ#7 43. dark blue/dark green stripe L-HEGO 44. blank 45. green/black stripe MAP 46. black/ white stripe SIG RTN 47. dark green/green stripe TPS 48. white/red stripe STI 49. orange L-HEGO ground 50. blank 51. white/thin red stripe, TAB (removed) 52. blue inj#8 53. blank 54. orange/dark blue stripe AC off, WOT 55. blank 56. Dark blue PIP 57. black/yellow stripe V POWER 58. Light tan INJ #1 59. white INJ 2 60. black/green stripe GROUND Lot of wires,, aint it???? ChadS
This is of great interest and I've book marked it. I'm not doing a Maverick but I will be doing a complete efi in my 57 Ranchero. I bought a complete but totalled 93 mustang and stripped it front to back so I have everything. I probably wont get to your stage till much later this year. My question is I want to use a 351 instead of the 302. Can I just buy the eddlebrock lower plenum and use everything else from the 5.0?
I dunno about toggle switching the computer. It will have to re-learn everything every time you kill the engine, right? To make sure the computer didn't lose its memory when using my Emergency Shut Off (at rear of car), we ran a hot wire to the computer (by-passing the Kill Switch). Sounded like that's the way it should be to me. :shrug: Neat that you have all the PIN info for the 88 TBird. 'Can never get too much information on
Why are we not hooking up the system as it is supposed to be? The EEC is powered at all times even when the ignition is off, in all cars and trucks. This maintains system memory and adaptive learning. The ignition switch only operates a relay to supply 'second' power to the EEC relay that in turn closes power directly to the EEC from battery. The ignition switch also does another function and has to be wired for it, in the engine bay. The start or cranking has a seperate lead to the TFI for starting then in run position it switches (transfers) to a run lead to the TFI. This is done by using the seperate start and run leads from the old system that used coil and a dropping resistor. There are two circuits in the original Mav wiring that need to be used for this function. This function is often not shown on drawings because it is outside the main wiring and only involves the TFI directly.
Bluegrass, the drop in voltage is what puzzled me and my buddies. Only when we re-routed the wires did we get around that problem.
This is what I was referring to. There was an apparent drop in voltage to "something" in the 'run' position. We were told to re-route or 'by-passing' the dropping resistor thingy. Doing that, combined with the proper wiring of the FP, the car finally cranked and stayed cranked. Just going off memory - and I'm an old guy.
The original wiring with coil ignition has two leads. The start lead bypasses the dropping resistor for starting then switches over to the lead that has the dropping resistor in it's line. The best references to see this is the Haynes book for Mav/Comet pages 38 and 48. The Haynes book for 73 to 85 big Ford Lincoln Merc shows all the Dura Spark systems that was used and how the igintion start bypassed the dropping resistor for starting. It is these two leads that need to be used for EFI and the dropping resistor removed. I know it's difficult to grasp all this but that understanding is what causes the problem of getting an EFI to operate properly for conversion purposes. Adding extra pumps etc. demands the wiring and relay circuit be correctly wired for inital key on run and restarting the pump at cranking. The more attempts to get around this the more confusion that reigns. The Fuel injection site shows all this but is harder to understand than seeing it in the Fuel Injection book by Probst.
Ok,, I was just curious about overpowering the old keyswitch and smoking the switch. I had the TFI distributor running in the car without the computer, so I know exactly what wires are which for start/run, run, etc etc. I dont think none of this wiring will change,,, doesnt the computer take the power from this circuit and use it? other than the wiring from the distributor,, the start/run, run are away from the computer,,, that goes to the key switch,,, and the coil, one wire from the coil, (green/yellow stripe, goes to the computer,,, thats the negative wire from the coil,, it could be a used as a tach sensor, or??? Bu that computer uses that wire,,, Probably to activate it once the key is on,,, or in start mode. am I close?? Chad
then youll love this post,, here is some wiring of the plugs,,, I will list them separatly,,, Lets start with the 2 large plugs that hook directly up to the manifold harness. BLACK PLUG: Olive green: Inj #6, pin 15 solid brown, Inj #1 pin 58 brown with blue stripe, inj#4 pin 13 darker brown, with blue stripe, inj#5, pin 14 brown/yellow stripe, inj#3 pin 12 burnt orange, inj#7 pin 42 white, inj#2 pin 59 white/black stripe, IAB solid blue, INJ#8, pin 52 Large red wire,,, Vpower, this wire goes into several locations,,, which eventually hooks into 3 larger black and yellow wires, which lead to pins, 57, and 37 Vpower WHITE PLUG:::: Green/purple stripe, ACT, pin 25 brown/green stripe, EGR sensor, pin 27 white with red stripe, this goes into a 7 wire black plug, which goes into the firewall, and also into a skinny 4 wire plug, mayb a power, or a ground from the switch,,, this I will have to figure out,,, dark green, TPS, pin 47 orange/white, MAP-Volt ref, pin 25 dark red and white stripe, Hooks into 7 wire black plug, (same plug I mentioned before, and to the same little skinny 4 wire plug. (maybe a power, or a ground from switch) Grey/yellow stripe, CANP, pin 31 Black/white stripe, hooks into the black and white wire going to the MAP sensor, SIG RTN, pin 46 Lime green/ yellow stripe, ECT, pin 7 If some one can help with the two wires in question that leads to the 7 wire black plug, and the skinny 4 wire plug, this will tell us exactly what they do. ChadS
I ordered the wiring diagram for the 93 Mustang from Helm and the book mentioned above so I should have all the data I need when I get around to it.
