I've had a request or two to do a "how to" article on converting the starter on a 302 Mav or Comet to a 95' Mustang starter. This is a relatively easy conversion and the starter cost is about $120.00 without core deposit from NAPA. So here we go. First remove the positive cable from the battery, then remove the existing starter, for those of you running headers you know what a pain this is, well it won't be a pain anymore. Remove the existing solenoid from the engine compartment wall as this will not be needed anymore, your new starter has solenoid built in. Cut the connector off the red/green wire that was hooked to the "S" terminal on the old solenoid and put a butt splice connector on and connect about 3 feet of 16 gauge insulated stranded wire with a eyelet connector on the other end. Wire tie this wire to your starter cable to within about a foot of the starter, from the underside of the car connect your starter cable to the only open copper terminal on the starter, then connect your new solenoid wire to the only aluminum stud on the new starter, then install the new starter. Neaten and straighten wiring accordingly as to not conflict with exhaust, headers, etc. Your now done on the underside. When you removed the existing solenoid you were left with a brown wire on the "I" terminal, this wire can be deleted now or if your running an electric choke it can be run to it as it emits 5.5 volts when the ignition is on. This leaves you with a cluster of wires where your old solenoid was at. At this point I installed a terminal block and brought my battery and starter cable together at one terminal on the block, I then looped an 8 gauge wire off this terminal to another terminal point and brought my alternator, voltage regulator and wiring harness wiring together at this point. Take note that a termnial block is not necessary as you can run a solid battery cable to the starter if you want and splice the remainder of your wiring and place it in a wire loom for a cleaner look. I used the block so I could hook up some other goodies I have planned for the car. Your now ready to put the juice to it. You'll notice these starters engage with alot of RPM's for a quick start, weigh at least half as much as the old starter, and as I said before are very easy to remove for those of us with headers. Here are some pics for illustration.
rick, thanks. it looks much neater also. did you have any s/o feed wires on your solenoid? if so where did you hook them now? is this the brown wire you were talking about going to the ele. choke? ...frank... :bananaman :bananaman :bananaman the nanas are for you.
Frank I'm not sure what you mean by s/o wires...the old S wire feeds the new solenoid, the other "control" wire that fed the other side of the old solenoid is deleted, or hooked to your electric choke if you want. Disclaimer: No beer consumption is necessary to perform this modification One of the added benefits of this mod is I got me a new boat anchor
those late-model starters are MUCH better than their oversized counterparts. Header clearance on Mavericks w/302 or 351w is 10 times better...which reduces heat soak and hot start problems. On my Mustang, the starter is right against one of the header primary tubes, and hard hot starting is not a problem, or hasn't been yet. I just hope it isn't a problem for a while as the starter can't be removed without complete header removal and engine lifting. Sure starts nice, though...hot, cold, doesn't matter...fires right up much easier than the old starter due to less current draw.
Both...the starter in the pic came off an actual 95 pony with manual tranny...the new starter I put in was exactly the same in my automatic.
You can also use your existing set up without removing anything. At the starter, just put a little jumper wire from the terminal, labeled starter cable in the picture, to the S terminal. Then just bolt it in and hook up the starter wire from you existing set up to the starter wire on the new starter. You will be going through 2 solenoids this way but it isnt a problem. I've been running this set up for years with no problems.
Dennis I tried useing the existing setup with the jumper to start with, It did work, but the bendix wouldn't totally disengage for 1-2 seconds after the ignition going in to the run position, sounded awful but it did work. Must be something peculiar to my car because Ray(courier11sec) is running both solenoids with no problems either. I think he said it may drag once in a blue moon. Ray?
I just used the OEM solenoid on the fenderwell. The + wire from the battery goes to one terminal, and the wire from the starter from the solenoid goes on the same terminal. Then, I used the other side of the solenoid (where the original starter wire was attatched) for the starter engagement wire. I made my own wire from 14 Ga. with the correct solder-on terminal on both ends. Never stays engaged after I let off the key...and it's wired exactly like my '95 F150 is, and it came factory with the later-model gear reduction starter. OR: You could just use a solenoid from a late F150, wire it as it's supposed to be on the truck and the problem is solved. I've done 'em both ways.
, sorry rick, the s/o was for "switched on" power. i have two wires that turn my head light relays on....frank...:bananaman :bananaman
DOH...my bad Frank your switch on power that was going to the "I" terminal will now just drive your light relays, mine just drives the electric choke as I'm not yet skilled enough to do the relay mod without a wiring diagram...hint....hint
