I am looking at purchasing a 4 link kit for a 9" rear end. can anyone recommend me a kit? I would prefer to weld it myself to save money. I am finding kits on ebay for 2-400$ , but dont want trash knock off. This kit MUST be for a coil over setup... Front end will be coil over mustang II b R&C
Competition Engineering has a kit & so does Jegs,I don`t think you could go wrong w/ either one.Now if you want to get expensive Jerry Bickel sells them and so does Chis Alston.
Don't cut corners on suspensio0n. The cheap kits could be made for a lower quality metal. Worth it to spend a few extra dollars to keep the shiny side up.
back half the car with chris alston there back half kit comes with a 4 link set up with coil over vari shocks and anti sway bar and a fab 9 housing for around $4500
I looked through Ebay and noticed the kits in the $200 to $400 range were kits for just the brackets, heim joints and tubes. To do a four link and back half suspension setup you will still need frame rails and cross members for the coil over shock mounts and the front cross member for the frame rails to weld to. I have attached pictures of the back half setup I am presently working on. It is a Competition Engineering welded kit. I think you can get the same kit UN-welded from Jegs for less and it includes all the parts to back half the car. Also keep in mind that you will need to replace all of the sheet metal associated with the new 4 link frame. If you do an internet search on back half you will see some how to articles on the subject.
Why not use the factory sub-frame and then cross members from that for the coilover's? they would be extremely easy to make and as long as you have sunframe connectors it seems it would be quite rigid, is there a reason why you couldn't just do that and then order the 400$/build your cross members, loop and be close to finnished. plus i'm not sure if he wants to tub his car..i personally wouldn't, i love fast cars and all.. but don't really like the fact of tubbing it though if you plan on driving it on the street.
I dont want to tub the car, I have cross member's in the car, and I need to weld in the rear main hoop which I thought the 4 link would tie into that... I am also going to cut out the entire trunk skin to be able to put a cross bar in the back by the tail panel, then put the brackets in there, and tie it all together... I think I am going the right way... Based off of what others have done.. Back halfing is nuts. That is something I would do If I was making a full blow drag car. Im just trying to do a pro street.
The part colored in red, is what I want tying the rear frame rails together, with a rear safety drive line loop. The part colored in blue is what I would have my sub frame connectors tie into and would be fully welded. Instead of having the sub frame connectors tying into the rear frame rails crooked, I felt it would look better imo, and serve as a same purpose. Also, the piece colored in red is the ONLY thing I would need to have made for me.
what type of 4 link are you wanting to do? a parallel or triangulated? have you considered doing a 3 link with a pan hard or watts link? are you tying to set up the car for handling, or launch traction, or everyday driver?
handling, every day driver (weekends only or nice nice days) and would love to drag it every now and then... Not sure yet... I dont know what I am doing :/ What wuold be the best for what I want to do, and the direction I am going?
the parallel 4 links that you are showing are intended for drag racing type traction and adjustments. it can work for handling and every day driving but is not ideal. i would suggest a set up similar to the one on this build http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/58842-Project-BLUEprint-1965-Falcon this is a huge thread but well worth reading. with a 3 link adjusting the geometry much simpler and can be more effective. i would definitely recommend getting 2 way adjustable shocks. they make all the difference it being able give good ride quality and be able to be tightened up when aggressive driving is desired.
If you don't want to tub the car for bigger tires, and am looking for a street driver with superior handling, I would use the subframe connectors you have installed, get some good adjustable front and rear shocks, and get an upgraded front sway bar and add a rear sway bar. This would help the car corner better and not be to laber intensive. Lastly brace the front shock towers using an export brace and monticrlo bar to stabilise the front suspension.
Id really like to do a 3 link or something and take tons of pics/measurements so its easy for everyone else.. Not sure if I'm going to get at it this winter though as ive had a few unexpected issues i need to take care of, so hopefully he can to make it quicker for me lol. I had a quick scanned through that topic on protour and it seems VERY informative, ill give it a good read before I attempt anything to make sure my geometry would be correct. The bonus to all this... No one wants leaf springs anymore and unless you got new ones its a 90% chance they are worn out and sagged by now. Also could you not jut use your setup right now; leafs springs to hold eveything in place at correct angles, ten weld brackets on ect and bolt up, remove other items and Finnish up?
