After talking to a local machine shop, he's really getting me to lean into a 347 stroker. He can get the kit from Ford Racing that has the forged rods, pistons, and crank, along with the e303 camshaft, double roller timing chain, clevite main bearings, etc. then, he's offering to GIVE me a 1993 Cobra roller block, and just charge me the $150 for the machine work on it (.030 bore to match the kit). All said an done, the shortblock would be $2,400, and I'd still need a flywheel, balancer, oil, water, and fuel pumps, a set of cheap heads, intake manifold, and a carberator. This would give me a really bulletproof setup for the future, not to mention some real potential that could be opened up later. You experienced builders, does this sound pretty fair so far?
Not knocking the 347, not real bad anyway... But this engine scarces me personally due to the low rod ratio. It is not the best recipe for longevity. Short rods put stress on the block and wear things out quicker than normal. Side loads on the cylinder walls is high and we all know that our blocks are thin cast to begin with. Add to that the even thinner nature of the roller blocks and it stands to reason that you could get much more life from an SBF if you used a shorter stroke. One reason it is so hard to kill an SBF, not counting weak rod bolts, is that the crank throws are so short. This puts much less stress on the mains, webbing, and crank, even when it is putting out significant power. I don't know the numbers off the top of my head, but a 3.25" stroke with 5.4 rods should be much sturdier than a 3.4" stroke with 5.4 rods (347). Also, make sure no matter what stroker you run, that the oil rings in the piston are not in the piston pin at all. Some kits have the rings in the pin and compensate with push in plugs that simulate ring lands. These pistons are notorious for oil consumption and far less longevity than keeping the rings away from the pins. For 347s, I have seen both designs. So look at what you are getting. Good luck Dave
That is a good price if it includes the cam. Make sure the block is crack checked as if it has been run hard in the past it could have cracks in the main saddle area. Definitely don't go cheap on the heads that is where the power is at.
If your looking for a bulletproof 302 this is supposed to be it. http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=10597&page=1&pp=20 only time will tell. The engine is being built to run strong on the street...if I was building it for the track only I probably would have stroked it. I've found during a build there are quite a few decisions that your gonna have to make dependent upon what you want and what your pocketbook can handle.
I just bought the Coast High / Probe kit. Just remember, whatever kit you buy you have to get it balanced. That costs roughly $175. How's he gonna do it all for $150? http://www.cprparts.com/specials.html
how much power do you plan on making? Be aware that 302 blocks aren't the strongest blocks out there....especially the late models which are notorious for cracking the main webbing. Adding cubes is a great way to exceed the block's limitations. Dad & I know first hand. I would say anything from 450HP on up, you're on borrowed time. It's not IF it blows, it's when and how much you can salvage from the mess. The only time you're worried about rod/stroke ratio is when you're racing. Heck, the 454's had a crappy ratio from the factory, as well as 400 SBC's and for that matter 350s werent the greatest either....and we all know they can be built to make serious power with stock dimensions. The pistons are another story. If you can find a stroker kit with 5.315" rods, the pin is lower than the oil ring. With 5.4" rods, you'll have to use 1.10 or 1.09" compression height pistons which will put the pin directly in the oil ring and CAN cause oil usage. That's not to say that it will use oil, but it sure doesn't help matters and if everything's not perfect, the chances are high that it will. If I were putting together another 302, it'd be stock stroke stock length rods and good heads and lightweight internals so it'll rev quickly, but then again, that's just my opinion.
Ok, I guess I should have explained my situation first, I can't spend $5,000 on my engine because if I do, I will never finish the car. I'm a college student and I'm working two jobs trying to restore this thing. Now, as far as horsepower, I would be plenty happy with something around the 300hp mark, I don't need much more. This WILL be a daily driver when I'm done, I will have no other car. I said cheap heads because I don't have the $1,600 it costs for a good set right now, I was thinking more along the lines of the GT E7TE heads with a valve job. I can live with the lacking performance until I can afford some AFR's or something. So that's my situation, what's the scoop with the 331?
speaking of coast high, one of their 347 kits has 5.315 rods. 347ci Street Fighter Kit: $1,099.99 4.000 to 4.040 bore - 3.400 stroke - Flat top piston Cast steel crankshaft CHP CNC Beam forged steel connecting rods (5.315) Probe SRS forged pistons Dished and Blower Dish pistons available Pro Mustang hydraulic roller camshaft Edelbrock Performer cylinder heads
I'm running 303hp at the rear wheels with .030 bore and other than ARP bolts, stock bottom end. I do have AFR Heads but I bought them used and have less than $3000 in my motor.
