Latest project with an explorer 5.0 engine

Discussion in 'Parts Interchange' started by jeremy, Nov 16, 2004.

  1. jeremy

    jeremy I build t5's

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    Hi all. While this isn't going into a maverick, it's the same darn 5.0/302 engine that's been around for decades now, and can just as easily be fitted into a maverick.

    My brother blew his engine in his 88 mustang notchback about 3 weeks ago on the WAY to the drags, set on cruise control. Looks like his oil pump quit and he didn't look at the gauges on time. whoops.

    Anyway, forced with a budget rebuild, we decided to finally opt for one of the last 5.0 engines ever made, an explorer 5.0/302. this particular engine was from a 96 explorer, but was a ford reman in 01 with less than 7k on the clock. We got it for a whopping $950. On average, yards should sell you the complete engine for about $650-750, but we paid more for less miles.

    Many of you may know what makes this engine a performance screamer, but most may not.

    in 1996, the explorer's 5.0 engine received factory gt40 heads, along with an efi manifold that's a direct copy of the high flowing efi gt40 intake. 97-01 engines got the gt40p heads.

    Several things required to turn this into a screaming "car" engine.

    -the camshaft and valve springs are the big limiter here, and don't rev much, as they were built for torque. Swap the springs out at a minimum with oem mustang valve springs, and an oem 87-93 cam. swap out the oil pan, pickup tube, and timing chain cover/accessories.

    -to retain the efi, you can easily swap in your eec iv computer and harness.

    we just finished putting tfs (twisted wedge) springs onto this engine, and the 1.7 roller rockers should be in today. Next week the oem mustang cam goes in, and we button it all up and drop it into this car.

    common times with this engine are 12.9s to low 13's with oem mustang cam/springs, rr's etc. porting and the such work can get you even quicker, with 12.5's being common, and these are in a 3100-3400 pound 80's stang.

    if you wanted to go carb'd with this engine, the efi intake it comes with fetches a good doller in the mustang crowd.

    Here is the engine we are working with.




    [​IMG]
     
  2. jeremy

    jeremy I build t5's

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    also, one thing to note, the pistons are hypereutechtic, and I hear the engine makes slightly lower compression. However the hypers can handle conservative boost with no problem, and with the lower compression, this could make one screaming engine.

    btw, don't get confused about the 5.8 on the heads, these are the same heads they used on the lightenings, so I suspect it could have been headed for a lightening originally.
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2004
  3. Fearmont80

    Fearmont80 Member

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    Saw your post on the corral.........
     
  4. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    Jeremy, STOP!

    PLEASE please put a healthier cam and springs while you got her down. You can probably pick 'em up for 'not much' on one of the Mustangs boards (Corral included).

    Sorry, it's the WOT in me.

    I think you made a wise choice in getting a 7k motor. Good luck with the install and keep us posted.
     
  5. jeremy

    jeremy I build t5's

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    Rick, thanks so much for the reply.


    he bought a brand new set of tfs springs, twisted wedge springs that we've already installed, these are supposed to be pretty decent, would you agree? additionally, he's ordered a set of 1.7 roller rockers that will go on this weekend, which will act like a slight cam. This is a huge budget buildup, but most people seem to agree that a stock cam (stock mustang cam, not explorer cam) with the 1.7's, and the tfs springs makes a screaming combo (near identical 93 cobra engine)

    what would you suggest with the cam, as we haven't gotten to that yet, so anything's still game in that area (tight with $, so it's gotta flow with the budget :) )

    thanks for the input!!
     
  6. rx7351w

    rx7351w Member

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    The stock mustang cam is not really that bad. If I was going to put a cam in it I would go with the tfs stage 1 cam. I have the stage 2 in mine. I picked it because I wanted the sound/lope but with my milled E7 heads the stage one should work better in my motor than the stage 2. I can tell when I hit 2000 rpm but the stage one kicks in alot sooner.
     
  7. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    Well, I wish I had a part number for you but I don't. lol!

    RX sounds like he might be onto something (TFS). Also other guys on here are better at determining which cam would be optimum than me, however, I'd see what's available on the slightly-used market (budget guy here too) then see if it will fit your wallet and combo.

    Sorry, I just know that you'll be glad you went to a more aggressive cam now than later. I'm sure you won't be dissapointed in the stock cam either (how's that for a democratic response). I've got a stock one in the garage you can have but I'm sure there are plenty out there more aggressive and probably for around $100.

    Let us know what you decided to do.
     
  8. rx7351w

    rx7351w Member

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    I guess I could have wrote before that the tfs stage one cam usually sells new for $150. My stage 2 was $160. I bet if you post on corral you can get one used for about half price. They shouldnt have much wear on them being roller cams.
     
  9. stockhatch

    stockhatch Re Member

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    Be careful with those TFS springs. I used them on my car and the machine chop had to use a buttload of shims to get any decent seat pressure out of them. Just an FYI.

    AC
     
  10. jeremy

    jeremy I build t5's

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    Most didn't require any shims at all. We used the supplied measuring stick and some feeler gauges to measure as they said to do, I would hope that would be ok?
     
  11. rx7351w

    rx7351w Member

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    I had to shim either my intake or exhaust springs but not much.
     
  12. jeremy

    jeremy I build t5's

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    rick, what year is that cam for?? we need to finish this project asap and need a cam, this car WAS his daily driver
     
  13. stockhatch

    stockhatch Re Member

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    Hmmm. Mayhaps I just had a bad set or something. They had to shim the hell out of mine to get decent pressures. Actually the first machine shop didnt shim them enough and left them with around 100lbs on the seat. The car ran fine, but didnt pull very hard up top. Once I had the springs shimmed up by another machine shop, the car would spin right up to and bouce off the limiter in a hurry. I couldnt believe it, it was a night and day difference.

    AC
     
  14. jeremy

    jeremy I build t5's

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    very interesting. The car is not running yet but will be within the next three weeks, I'll let you know how that turns ou. However, when they were installed the first time on your car, did they use that measuring stick that come with the kit and check for clearance using the feeler gauges??? This is what we did, and hoping that it works fine. I'm almost thinking your shop just threw them on the first time without checking. The whole idea behind this measurement is checking the seat to spring height to be sure when installed that they are at the right height needed for the spring pressure. The engine we're working with is a ford reman unit from 01, and since some needed shims, I'm guessing that comes from different heights on the valve from grinding the seats down further? just kinda speculating here.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2004
  15. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    ???

    Check these guys out. They can help you determine the best one.

    http://compcams.com/
     

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