What are the stock heads on my 1977 302? I was talking to my machine shop and he was thinking he might be able to spice them up since I don't think I can just slap e7te's right on my older style block, can I?
71-73 351w heads are the best... Everyone thinks the 69-70s are worth a mint, but no one realizes that the 71-76s are identical (74-76 has an emission bump in the exhaust). The only reason the 2 early heads are prefered is because they have correct numbers for the Mustang crowd. The other Ford guys just assume that the early heads are the only good ones because Mustang guys want them. These heads have 60cc chambers, 1.84 intake valves, and large 351 ports. Pick a set up and freshen them, add your screw in studs and plates, then you will have a decent head for dirt cheap. Late 76 through somewhere in the 80s, 351s and 302s had the same head... Large chambers, tiny valves and ports. The only difference being the 351s had larger holes for the head bolts. Your 77 heads are boat anchors. Dave
Yep, thats right about the 351's but lets look at the extra cost of hardened push rods roller rockers and taller valve covers to clear. Then there is new springs to match your cam specs and some head bolt bushings for the larger 1/2 holes. You would have to compare the cost of this against a set of aftermarket lightly better flowing heads for a few bucks more. Found a set of new Edelbrock aluminum heads last year that were used just for a mock up build, got them for 800.00 with 1.94 valves and less weight up front. Just things to think about before you get the check book out. BTH, sometimes the windsor heads on 302's will require a different length pushrod from stock length to get correct rocker arm geometry. Still using the 351 is a lot better than the stock 302's. Did have a guy tell me the other day that he has a set of Roush 200 heads for sale, but did not shoot me a price. Supposed to be new, he has a 460 in a RX7 and was going to put in a small block but chgd. his mind. Can get his email and you guys can deal on them, if you want.
Dave is right. I have almost $800 in '70 351W heads, and I wish I had gone the aftermarket aluminum route for a couple of hundred more. It might have upped me 20-25 HP. Seth
True about good heads being more accessable than ever, but... If you find a set of early 70s heads, you can get them dirt cheap. Just look for a set that does not need alot of work. If you don't have to buy valves or do much other than fresh them up, you will have a set of good heads on the cheap. A Franklin will get you milled for studs/plates, another for getting the heads worked, then another for the cost of washers, studs, plates... So you have about $300 in them. Dave, roller rockers,hardened pushrods, and valve covers do not come with aftermarket heads, so you cannot really use them to justify the expense. Also, just me, but I would rather run the springs matched to my cam rather than trust general purpose springs that come on head assemblies. So, yes, you will pay for springs, but they will be right and you get to choose. I have seen 71-73 heads go for 20-25 at parts swaps, so this head is a good alternative for someone to bolt on until they are ready to step up. Alot of folks use inexpensive parts for years. I am there myself... I chose to have kids at a young age, so my hobby doesn't get high dollar parts. Dave BTW: A buddy that owns a machine shop has 3 sets of aluminum GT40X heads for sale. New in boxes... $900 a set if memory serves. They are sweet looking, and complete. I can get his number to anyone interested.