anyone know what extra block prep is required by using an eagle 347 stroker kit? i mean from personal experience. thanx
I have a copy of an article How To Build a 50-state Legal 347. If you are interested, I could e-mail you copies of it. It is 4 pages from Mustang Monthly September 2003. I have been keeping it for when I finally need to do a rebuild. It has a parts list and instructions. I don't need the smog stuff, so I figured I would use some other higher performance parts and pick up a few extra HP.
I made the scans, but need an email address where I can send 4-1 meg attachments. PM me with an e-mail address, and I will send them along.
I just did a 347 but not with an Eagle crank. I've been told by a dealer that the Eagle cranks have slightly larger counterweights. If you're running their 5.4" rods and pistons it's not a problem. But if you want to run the 5.315" rods and associated pistons that do not have the piston pin in the oil ring you have to check the counterweight-to-piston clearance. With any 347 you have to mock up a piston (w/o rings) and rod in each cylinder and see where the rod bolts hit the cylinder walls. I notched mine with a stone in a die grinder, then a couple strokes with a hone to get rid of any sharp edges. You also need to check the clearance between to crank and cam if you're running a big cam, and the crank and oil pump.
igo, I have those scans, but I don't think I can post them on the message board, since they are 4 scans at 1 meg each. I would probably be breaking some copyright laws if I posted them. So email me and I will forward them to you. scooper@sbcglobal.net Have you thought about the midrange stroke job, I think it comes out to 331 ci. It is supposed to be easier on the cylinder walls, and a more reliable long-term job, for a 302 block. I have been researching both before I do the work.
igo, I got your email, then tried to send the attachments to you in three separate e-mails, then got some "automatic reply" with a link that went nowhere. Hope you got that article.
got the articles, thanx. i thought i had posted a thanx note to you, but dont see it. do you know if the 331 requires notching the cylinders? thanx again.
I did a Scat 331 stroker and the rod bolt nuts were about .005 from hitting the bottom of the cylinder bore (if you upgrade to larger rod bolts it will hit) any way the min. clearence from rod bolt to bore is .040 (more is better) so I had to remove some. The time consuming part is putting all of it together (without rings) and marking where you need to remove with a paint marker, taking apart grinding, deburring , cleaning and rechecking.
