I thought I would start this up and add to it as I get the time. I would make it a sticky if I could but I think a moderator would have to do that. This thread is for build-up and race prepping a C4 transmission without any need for aftermarket kits or valvebodies. It is intended for those who already know how to properly take measurements and rebuild a C4 using factory tolerances and clearances. After a thorough cleaning and careful tear down taking all the necessary measurements these are the mods to make in the order they should be made: Increase cooling to the tranny. Ream the rear cooler line passage in the case to 3/16" with a long reamer. Do this carefully because you don't want to increase the depth of the passage just the diameter. Ream both sides of the front cooler passage from the fitting side and the pump side. Check the fittings to see that the holes through them are larger than the 3/16" reamer. If it is not then ream them to 7/32". Clean the case with compressed air to remove any chips. Disassemble the pump and clean the stator support with clean solvent or brake parts cleaner. Find the hole on its face that lines up with the front cooler passage in the case. On the outside diameter of the stator support, lining up with that hole is a plug. Pull that plug by drilling a hole and pulling it with a slide hammer. Inside that plugged hole is a spring and two balls. Pull all three pieces out and throw them away. Tap the hole where the plug was with a 1/8" pipe tap and put an allen head pipe plug in it (with a light film .010" of gasket-maker) at least flush with the outside (it can't stick out beyond the rim of the pump) and make sure it doesn't restrict the passage on the face of the pump. You now have converted your cooling system to the same as a C5. This allows a lot more oil to flow through the cooler and increases the potential oil flow to the rear lube circuit. Increase Oiling To Rear Thrust Washer (#9) The number 9 thrust washer in a C4 is likely to fail due to lack of lubrication in any application that involves more than 350 Ft.Lbs. of torque. To eliminate this problem place the thrust washer in place with the one-way clutch completely removed. You will see a small lube hole that feeds the bearings on the one-way clutch and you are going to add a hole to oil the #9 thrust washer. Put your 3/16" reamer in the rear cooler passage and use the angle of it to sight down to the existing lube hole and extend a line to the # 9 thrust washer. You want to put a hole that hits the washer one third of the way from the inside diameter to the outside diameter. Mark the washer where the passage will intersect it at that magic one third point. It has to be closer to the inside than the outside because the oil will naturally migrate toward the outside of the washer so we need to have it close enough to the inside that it will lube the entire bearing surface. Drill the washer where you marked it with a 1/8" drill. set the washer back in the transmission and using it as a guide drill a hole through the hole in the washer into the passage that you enarged earlier. you will know when you hit the passage because one of two things will happen: the drill will catch on the edge of the passage and feel like it is only cutting on one side - it is, go slowly just until it smooths out. (you don't want to break a drill bit now) If you are real good in your layout you will hit the passage dead center and the drill will "drop" when it hits the passage. If that happens you are done. Stop drilling. Blow air through the passage to clean them up. If you have a set of oil passage brushes you can run them through the holes and passages that you have modified while you blow air through them. Make sure that there is no aluminum chips in the passages or the case. You now have a case that mimics the C5 case in oiling and lubrication. It is now time to finish that washer that you drilled. Install the washer so that the hole in it is on the wrong side and doesn't line up with your new oil passage. Mark the washer where the hole should be. drill the mark with a 1/8" drill and then drill them both to 5/32". Use a file to remove any burrs so that it will sit flat. Then use a 3/8" drill to carefully chamfer the top side of the holes so that oil will move easily over the entire surface of the thrust washer. With holes at each of the washers possible positions you won't ask yourself if you remembered to line it up properly two days after you installed it. The C5 cases have all these same mods from the factory. (you didn't think I was smart did you?) Clean and dry the case warm it to at least 100 degrees (an oven will do this or setting it in direct sunlight will work too) when it is warm remove and paint the case avoiding the pan and pump mounting surfaces. A light first coat and a heavier coats when each coat gets tacky will make the case look like plastic. nice and shiny - easy to spot leaks. Tools you make: I tried multiple times to upload the drawings of the tools without success. If you want them you can email me at paulstephens2(AT)comcast(DOT)net with tranny tools in the subject line. I will reply with the three attachments. If you have any trouble making or using the tools just email me and I will help where I can. CONTINUED AFTER NEXT SIX POSTS - - -
Servo uses and modifications Intermediate servos in order of apply piston force (highest to lowest). Forces reflect 200 psi operating pressure. ================================================== |..........|....................|.....................|..........................l.......................| Servo.. Apply Force.. Apply Area .. Release force .. Release Area |..........|....................|.....................|..........................l.......................| ...C..........1529 lbs......7.645 sq".........2250 lbs............11.252 sq"...........Best for 600+ HP |..........|....................|.....................|..........................l.......................| ...H..........1376 lbs......6.881 sq".........2250 lbs............11.252 sq"...........OK up to 600 HP |..........|....................|.....................|..........................l.......................| ...A..........1254 lbs......6.268 sq".........2250 lbs............11.252 sq"...........OK up to 400 HP |..........|....................|.....................|..........................l.......................| ...R..........1249 lbs......6.246 sq".........1675 lbs..............8.373 sq"...........OK up to 400 HP fastest releasing servo - 600+ * |..........|....................|.....................|..........................l.......................| ...B...........1154 lbs......5.768 sq".........2250 lbs............11.252 sq"..........OK up to 350 HP |..........|....................|.....................|..........................l.......................| ...N...........1029 lbs......5.147 sq".........2250 lbs............11.252 sq"..........OK up to 300 HP |..........|....................|.....................|..........................l.......................| ...Z.............982 lbs......4.909 sq"..........1747 lbs..............8.735 sq"..........OK up to 250 HP - Good for 1000 HP with mods* |..........|....................|.....................|..........................l.......................| ...O............951 lbs.......4.753 sq"..........2250 lbs...........11.252 sq"..........OK up to 250 HP - Not to be used with mods** |..........|....................|.....................|..........................l.......................| ...K............886 lbs........4.43 sq"...........1768 lbs...............8.84 sq"...........OK up to 200 HP - Good for 1000 HP with mods* |..........|....................|.....................|..........................l.......................| ...W...........886 lbs........4.43 sq"...........1768 lbs...............8.84 sq".......... OK up to 200 HP - Good for 1000 HP with mods* |..........|....................|.....................|..........................l.......................| Servo.. Apply Force.. Apply Area .. Release force .. Release Area =========================================================================================== * remove apply side piston seal (small end), modify the small piston to allow oil to flow to the release piston to apply (grind three slots 1/8" x 5/8" adjacent to each pad on top of piston) , plug return to case with 3/8 NC set screw and gasket maker by Loc-Tite. To be used in conjunction with full rollerized transmissions. Not to be used for street transmissions. If pressures are too high or flow is completely unrestricted this mod can cause breakage of the band or case. ** If this servo is modified to use the release side of the piston to apply band, case and band breakage will occur. The "O" servo piston and cover should only be used with six cylinder engines producing up to but no more than 250 HP. Clutch Drum Preparation After you have the five clutch forward and the 4 clutch direct clutch drums it is time to get them ready for the job ahead. We need to help to get some trapped oil out of them as the clutches apply. You will modify both clutch drums in the same way. You will need: a hand drill, hammer, center punch, four drills - #56, 1/8", 5/16", 3/8", compass or dividers, 1/2" to 1" masking tape, and calipers for measuring the outside diameter of the drums. Measure the outside diameter of the drum. Divide that distance by 2 to get the radius. Lock the compass with that dimension and set it to the side for a moment. Carefully eyeball the starting and ending points of the splines on the inside of your drum. Put a circle of masking tape around the drum so that one edge is approximately in the middle of the top and bottom of the splines. Place a pencil mark somewhere on the edge of that masking tape. With your compass place the point on the mark and draw an arc with the pencil end as it leaves the masking tape on the middle side. put the point in the new pencil mark and repeat. Repeat the process until you have six evenly spaced marks around the drum. With your hammer and center punch place a dimple at each of the six marks. With the drill and 1/8" bit drill a hole in each dimple through to the inside of the drum. Change the drill bits to the 3/8" bit and re-drill each of the six holes slowly with the 3/8" bit. chamfer the outside of these holes to prevent sharp edges and clean any burrs off the inside of the drum and splines. Repeat this process with the other drum so that both drums have six 3/8" holes equally spaced around the outside diameter of the drum. These holes allow cooling oil that gathers between the clutches to be expelled when the clutches are applied. The finishing touch for the drums is a bleed hole placed toward the outside diameter of the piston bore on the bottom of the drum. Mark a point 1/16" in from the outside diameter on the bottom of the drum and carefully drill it with a slight tilt of the drill to the center of the drum. (as you drill the hole it will be closer to the outside diameter on the outside bottom than it is on the inside bottom) This hole, drilled in both drums allows oil that might build up and push the piston to apply the clutches from centrifugal force to escape to the case where it will find its way back into the pan. Preparing the Hubs Now that you have both drums completed you can turn your attention to the hubs. These are the splined hubs that hold the lined plates in the center of the drums that you just finished drilling holes through. One is part of the forward clutch drum and the other is part of the front planetary group. If these units already have holes then your job is easier. Just drill them out to 5/16" and you are done. (C5 hubs have four large holes in the hubs and should be left as they are) If they are not already drilled then you will have to find the diameter, radius and the top and bottom of your splines. Place the masking tape with equal distances between the edges of the tape and the top and bottom of the splines. with your compass set at the radius of the hub mark six points in the same way that you marked the drums. After you have marked the hubs then transfer those marks to the tapes top, middle and bottom twice, like so: top, middle, bottom, top, middle, bottom. Use the center punch to dimple at each mark. Drill 1/8" holes through the hub to the inside. Following that, re-drill each hole with the 5/16" drill. Deburr each hole inside and out. Carefully inspect the parts and clean them one last time. These holes allow cooling oil into the spaces between your lined plates when they are not applied and allow cooling oil to act as a sink to move heat away from the clutches when they are applied.
Adding Clutches C4s have a number of different clutch drums. Some hold just two lined plates and others have five from the factory. The typical V8 C4 has five clutches in the forward clutch pack and four in the hi/rev (direct) clutch pack. This is fine for a stock 302 that is almost never hotrodded but for anything more you are going to want to add clutches. The forward clutch uses smooth friction plates and gets away with it because it applies only once for all the forward gears and only releases its hold on those plates when you put the car into reverse. They operate only when the engine is idling and has no load on it. Third gear, on the other hand, is always applied under a load and has to overcome the momentum of all the moving parts. It is for that reason that the direct clutches have grooves in them in either a parallel groove pattern or a "waffle" groove pattern. you should NEVER use a smooth plate in the direct clutch. To make you transmission handle all that new hp you put in is why we have to add plates to the clutches. (its the only way that we can add strength to the C4.) Here is a list of parts that are available for the clutches. It lists the thickness, groove pattern, aftermarket number (which may be different from your supplier) and the Ford number. Lined plates ..dim.....grooves......Aftermarket #.....Ford Number..............Area used in the tranny .0.061...smooth..........26404B...........C8AZ-7B164-D...........Forward Lined plates: .0.068...parallel..........76304A...........F8AZ-7B164-BA.........for direct lined from AOD direct plates .0.075...parallel..........76304..............F1SZ-7B164-A...........for direct lined from AOD direct plates .0.078...parallel..........26304B...........E2SZ-7B164-A............for direct lined from C5 direct plates .0.090...waffle............26304A...........C4AZ-7B164-D............for direct lined from C4 direct plates Steel Plates ..dim.....finish..........aftermarket #.....Ford Number................Area used in the tranny .0.060...smooth..........unknown........non-Ford part................to add more clutches in tight places .0.078...smooth..........26305A..........C4AZ-7B442-B.............both forward and direct clutches .0.090...smooth..........26305B..........E2SZ-7B442-A.............direct clutches .0.095...smooth..........26305X..........E2SZ-7B442-B.............forward clutch Pressure Plates .0.141...smooth..........26307F..........E1AZ-7B066-B.............to add more clutches in tight places .0.297...smooth..........26307G..........E2SZ-7B066-B............standard pressure plate .0.313...smooth..........smooth...........E1AZ-7B066-A............standard pressure plate Lock rings ..dim.....finish..........aftermarket #.....Ford Number................Area used in the tranny .0.052...black.............26310D..........D0AZ-7A577-B.............set clutch pack clearance .0.066...black.............26310A..........D0AZ-7A577-A.............set clutch pack clearance .0.080...black.............26310............D0AZ-7A577-C.............set clutch pack clearance .0.094...black.............26310B..........D0AZ-7A577-C.............set clutch pack clearance .0.106...black.............26310C..........E1AZ-7A577-B.............set clutch pack clearance With this information and the measurment of what you had you can decide how many of which parts you can put into a clutch pack without machine work. You can usually get one extra clutch in the direct clutch and the forward is stuck at five. Using the thinnest steels and the thinnest friction plates you can put enough friction components in the V8 packs to hold 400hp. Just switching to the .068" frictions and the .060 steels you can put 5 clutches in the four clutch pack. (you will need to add a thicker lock ring or pressure plate to make it fit correctly. That gives you 5 in each pack which will hold 400 hp with the othere mods) If you need to handle more than that then you are going to be spending some money. Clearance in the packs should be .005" for each lined plate in the pack. A 5 plate pack should have .025" clearance.
Governor Mods The easiest mod for the governor is to replace the secondary valve that is in it with Ford # C4OP-7C053-A. This will make it shift at full throttle at 5800 RPM. You can buy and install governor #D7ZZ-7C063-B. That governor will do the same thing if you can't find the replacement valve. Always replace the small thimble screen filter for the governor whenever you have it off. Its cheap insurance that will keep grit out of the very sensitive valves in the governor. Modulators for the screw-in modulator use the white band modulator (a band of white paint around it) part # C4AZ-7A377-B (66-72) and for the push-in modulator use the green band modulator part # D5AZ-7A377-B (74-86). Replace the dual diaphram 1973 modulator with the green stripe single diaphram unit. Remove the front (side) hose from the modulator and fitting on the engine and plug the port at the engine side. To make the modulator valve easier on the transmission and prevent wear in the case, chamfer and polish the front and rear lands of the valve slightly. This produces a beveled edge when the valve is in motion and it will not cut into the case. It will move more freely too so you won't get the occassional soft shift due to sticking valve. Does your transmission shift too early when you are just driving normally and pulling away from a stop? GOOD! That saves your clutches and bands for when you need them and it gives you better gas mailage. If you simply MUST have a later shift when you don't have your foot in the carb then you can do two things. Make a new modulator pin out of a 1/8" steel rod (a 16d nail is good for this). For the 64-72 transmissions with a screw-in modulator make a pin that is no longer than 1.75" (1 3/4"). That is the limit - any longer and it will damage the transmission. For the later transmissions with push-in modulators the pin is a bit shorter at 1.688" (1 11/16"). The C5 transmissions that have been converted to C4s for performance purposes (1982-85) can be as long as the early C4s at 1.75". When you install the longer pins (unless your transmission already has a long pin in place) you may not notice a lot of difference. The Modulator doesn't control shifts it controls pressure. With the longest pin the pressures will be higher but at low throttle pressures it won't make a huge difference. If you feel that you have to have later shifts and the longer pin didn't do it for you then you can remove the vacuum hose on the modulator and turn the screw that is in the tube connector, clockwise (righty tighty) no more than two turns. Mark your modulator with a paint pen or a permanent marker with "+2" on it. That way the guy that works on it next will know that the modulator has been adjusted to its limit. On the push-in modulators you can also remove the shim (a paper shim that looks like a gasket) between the modulator and the transmission case. (it is sealed by an o-ring not a gasket). That is as much as you can do for a later shift without causing harm. If you want it in low gear longer than that holds it, then shift it manually - that will raise the pressures high enough that you won't hurt your transmission. My advice is to let it shift at 8-10 mph when you are driving around town. (just about the time you get to the middle of the intersection) You will enjoy the shifting more when you get on it. The next part will be the modification of the valve body to make the C4 last longer by cutting down the time it is in two gears at the same time and reducing the length of time it takes to complete a shift. You can chirp the tires and cause whip-lash to your passengers if you go overboard or if you do this part wrong. You must pay attension to all the details in this part of the modifications. So clear a space on the bench and lay out some newspaper. Put clean solvent in the solvent tank (or if you have a filter stir the solvent up good and wait for the filter to clean it out) Turn the compressor on and get out your picks, gloves, goggles and needle nose pliers. To Be Continued
Valve body Mods - last post in the Hot rod tranny Well, I couldn't upload the pictures so I had to write it all out. If you need the pictures email me and I will send them to you. Valve Body Mods I have put here the safe way to modify your valve body on a 1970 and later C4 with the "B" series valve body. Since I have no way to post pictures you will have to write me at paulstephens2@comcast.net to get any pictures that you want to use with these instructions. If you have some self confidence and know how to use a machinist square you will be able to make all the mods that are listed here. You will have to make some parts that require the use of tools that measure in 1/1000" one thousandths of an inch, up to one inch. A good caliper can be used as can a 0-1 inch micrometer. all pieces can be made with only hand tools but a grinder will simplify some operations. How do I know if I have the correct valve body? If there is a spring and limit valve under the tab of the filter you have the right valve body. With the valve body out of the transmission and the filter taken off: Put the spring and valve in a clean tray. Throw the filter away, as you will be using a new one. Turn the valve body over and remove two bolts that hold the sections of the valve body together. DO NOT REMOVE THE SEPARATOR PLATE HOLD DOWN SCREW. Turn the valve body over (with the filter side up) and remove the bolts that remain. Carefully hold the halves together while you turn the valve body over again. Slide and lift the channel casting and separator plate off the valve section. Place the channel casting and separator plate off to the side for a moment. Remove any balls and the flat rubber disk (may stick to the separator plate) and discard them. You will need just one ball, for this section, from your rebuild kit when putting it back together. Place the valve section in clean solvent to soak. Set the channel casting and separator plate in front of you with the separator plate up. Remove the bolt holding the separator plate to the channel casting and carefully lift the separator plate and gasket off the channel casting. Lift the gasket from the separator plate and discard it. Put the separator plate in clean solvent to soak. Remove the two balls from the channel casting and discard them. You will need to use only one check ball, from your overhaul kit, when putting this part back on. Place your channel casting in clean solvent and thoroughly clean all the parts. Clean your bench and place clean paper over the top of it. Separator Plate Mods: Clean the separator plate and blow dry with compressed air. Set the plate down on the papered bench with both large holes away from you (at the top) and the longest straight edge on the right side. With a machinist square, measure 2 1/8" in from the long straight side of the separator plate. There is one round hole 2 5/8" down from the top straight edge between the two large holes. Mark that hole with a permanent marker. (put a circle around it) To the left and up at about 45 degrees is a slot that points in the general direction of the marked hole. Mark that slot because you will be placing a restrictor in it. Move your machinist square down to 4 3/4" from the top and left of the long straight side 2 13/16". Mark that hole. 5 9/16" down from the top and 3 1/4" to the left of the long straight edge that is on the right side of the plate. Mark that hole by circling it with a permanent marker. Enlarge the holes with a #35 drill (.110") or a 7/64" drill (for mostly track racing use a 1/8" drill and for track only use a .155" drill) and chamfer both sides lightly with a 60 degree counter-sink. Sand the plate using 220 grit and a hard block. (wood is fine) You are done with the separator plate. Clean it again, blow it dry and set it aside for reassembly. Making the Restrictor: From a piece of cold rolled flat bar 1/10" thick and 3/4" wide cut a piece just over 3/16" long. File both of the longest sides on its edge until you have a finished piece 1/10" x .188" x 3/4". You are only filing the edge you cut and it's opposite edge. DO NOT make it thinner than 1/10" and you want it every bit of 3/4" long. This is the restrictor that you will put in the channel casting and separator plate. It will stick up through the slot you marked in the separator plate earlier. Separator Plate Gasket Modifications: If you want to disable the rpm safeguard that Ford has that automatically shifts for you at 5400 RPM even when you have the transmission held in manual low this is the modification that you make. If you don't want to be able to put it in any gear at any speed (with the possibility of over-revving your engine) then disregard this section and continue with "Assemble channel casting and separator plate". If you don't care that you will be able to downshift into low gear at 120 MPH then do the following: You will be making five new holes. You need a 3/8" gasket or paper punch. Set the gasket with the two big holes up and on the bottom the two holes and slot at the very bottom will be on the left side. 6 1/16" down from the flat between the big holes and 1 3/8" from the left side (the flat between bolt holes) is where the first hole goes. The second hole is 5 9/32" down and 15/16" in from the left side (the flat between bolt holes). The third hole is placed 4 7/16" down 5 5/8" from the right side. The fourth hole is 2 31/32" down from the top and 3 3/16" from the right side. The fifth and last hole is 2 3/16" down from the top and 2 3/4 from the right side. The measurements are to the CENTER of the hole that you are punching. note: don't try to cut these holes. They're placement is such that they allow bleed-over between two passages in the channel casting. They are placed along the same passages so that the flow is high enough to be effective. Assemble the channel casting and separator plate: Place one check ball into the channel casting in the slotted channel that is located 1 1/2" to 2" down from the top straight portion between the two large passages and 1 1/8" from the left side. Place the gasket and separator plate over the channel casting and insert the restrictor in the in the small oval passage that is left and above the top drilled hole at a 45 degree angle and points in the direction of the top drilled hole in the separator plate. (2 3/8" down and 2 1/2" left of the right side of the separator plates right side) If you place some heavy grease on the restrictor it will help to hold it in place with further assembly. Valve Section Modifications: The following modifications complete the overall modifications and must be made in conjunction with them or the transmission will not work properly. You will need a spring with the following dimensions: 1.95" free length, .650" outside diameter, .053" diameter wire, 7 1/2 right hand turns with 4 1/2 turns at three turns per inch and 1 1/2 turns at each end to meet the coil above and make the ends square. Remove the booster sleeve, pressure booster valve and the two springs. Replace the outer diameter spring with your new spring, and reassemble using both the new spring and the old inner spring. Remove the Intermediate servo accumulator pin, retainer, valve and spring. Install the valve, the spring, the retainer and the pin that holds it. Changing the position of the spring and the valve removes the function of the accumulator. Remove the small cover plate, with two screws holding it. Remove the transition valve spring (not all models use one here) and reinstall the cover. put the screws in just far enough to hold the valves in the valve section but do not tighten at this time.
last of "How to Hotrod Your Transmission" Reassembly of valve body: Install one check ball in the valve section in the slot that is 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" from the top straight edge and 7/8" from the left side when the dips for the two large holes in the separator plate are in the top side of the valve section. Assemble the channel casting, gasket and separator plate to the valve section. Install all the bolts (even the filter bolts without the filter) making sure that the three parts and the gasket all line up as you go. Torque the bolts from the center out in this order: (4) under filter bolts finger tight (8) Filter bolts finger tight (2) valve body bolts finger tight (1) separator plate bolt finger tight (2) cover plate screws finger tight Now go back and torque the (4) under filter bolts to 18-20 inch pounds Remove the filter bolts and reinstall the throttle pressure valve and spring with the filter. Torque to 18-20 inch pounds Torque the (2) valve body bolts to 18-20 inch pounds Torque the (1) separator plate bolt to 18-20 inch pounds Torque the (2) cover plate screws to 18-20 inch pounds Carefully install your modified valve body into the rebuilt transmission. Check that the shift lever and downshift valve work smoothly with the levers. Torque the valve body down to the case to 18-20 inch pounds. Install the pan with a new gasket to just begin to compress the gasket. Adjust the front band to 10 inch pounds and back out 1 1/2 turns exactly. Adjust the rear band to 10 inch pounds and back out 2 turns exactly. Measure your modulator pin. If it is 1.63" long then install it with a new yellow stripe modulator. If your modulator pin is shorter than 1.63" then you will have to make one that is that long from a 16d nail (16 penny nail). If it is longer then you will need to shorten the one you have to exactly 1.63". Make sure that both ends are rounded and smooth. No adjustment of the modulator should be necessary. Fill the new torque converter with 2 quarts of type F fluid. Lubricate the torque converter (pump) seal with Vaseline. Install the torque converter into the transmission - be sure that it is fully engaging the pump. Clean the cooler lines and tank and install a 20000 lb rated auxiliary cooler. Install your transmission into the car making sure that the linkages are properly adjusted. Put four quarts of type F ATF into the transmission. Start the engine and fill the transmission to just above the "add" mark with the transmission in "Park". With the car securely on stands or blocked off the ground run the transmission through it's gears making sure to stop the tire rotation before putting it in "Park" or changing directions. After you have run it through the gears a few times recheck the level in "Park" and fill to half way between "Add" and "Full" on the stick. Do not overfill the transmission. Overfilling will cause the transmission to "burp" oil out after you stop the car or when running at prolonged loads at high speed. Use ONLY TYPE "F" ATF in this transmission. The use of any other fluid can damage the transmission internal parts and may burn causing premature failure. That's it, you now have a transmission that will shift firmly when cruising and snap your neck when you are on the gas pedal. It will shift automatically at 5800 RPM and you can shift it manually at any speed you like. Take it for a test drive but drive easy for the first 100 miles or so. Make sure that everything is operating as it should. Check the ATF level often for the first 500 miles and change your oil after that first 500 miles have been run, Keep an eye out for leaks and correct them if they appear. As with all things "Do it yourself" you make these modifications at your own risk. Since I am not doing the work I can not take responsibility for any failure or the cost to repair any damage due to failures in your transmission. If you make these mods and your transmission breaks in two - you own both pieces.
I hope you guys feel this was worth the wait. It took a lot of time to put it all together and longer to re-write the valve body part so that it can be done without pictures. If you need the pictures or any of the fabricated parts just drop me an email. If you do everything from start to finish your transmission will handle up to 400 HP without breathing hard. The only thing I would do with my own tranny is to install a larger cooler - the largest one I could find. With the added clutches and all of the modifications it should handle 400 - 450 HP for track use only. On the street under "normal" street driving it will hold up to 600 HP without beating it up on the track. What ever you do drive safely! Always remember that you should never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly.
