So I think I'm losing my C4, let's talk about options...

Hey guys. My transmission is slipping a little in low range, and slipping badly in reverse. Earlier today it wouldn't even move in reverse. Last night I adjusted the bands and that seemed to fix it until about noon today. I think I'm gonna need transmission work.

So I have a few questions. First and foremost, can I fix this myself? Only time I ever investigated rebuilding a transmission, it was a 700R4 and that thing is a nightmare. Surely this is simpler though. Can a reasonably decent weekend hobbyist mechanic rebuilt a C4, or is this better left to a shop? Do I even NEED to fully rebuild, or might it be possible to just change the bands?

My second option is to install a used C4 transmission. I'm not in a position to drop $1500 on a top shelf reman with all the goodies. Preferably not even half that, so if I replace the trans it will likely be salvaged. Just freshen it up with a shift kit, filter change, etc. Are all C4's going to be plug-and-play, or do I need to look for specific ones? Should I steer away from certain ones, such as truck or I6 versions?

Third option, this could be a golden opportunity to get on with that manual or AOD swap! If I go AOD, I need a new crossmember right? Is that pretty much it? I have a column shifter, so no headers... Does the C4 column linkage hook up to the AOD? How about the driveshaft? I know there's articles everywhere about the T5 or toploader swap so no need to go over that here. I guess it's mainly going to depend on what kind of deal I can get on what kind of transmission.

Anybody know a good transmission guy within a couple hundred miles of Memphis who knows these old machines and prices his work reasonably?

Thanks!

 

I've almost made up my mind to fix this myself. If anybody thinks I shouldn't, then please talk me out of it before I ruin my marriage.

Let's assume I do rebuild it myself. I'm looking at rebuild kits now, and what they include. The good ones include forward bands it seems, but I haven't found one that includes the reverse band. For good reason I'm sure - nobody races, tows or otherwise drives in reverse all that much so they probably don't often wear out. But since my problem started by losing reverse, is it safe to think I need a reverse band too? Or is it more likely to just be the clutches, since it's slipping in low forward gear too?

Does this kit look like the right way to go for the money? I see kits that cost half as much, but this one looks to be far more complete and has a lot of upgrades. I figure all I would need is this, a good torque converter, a bazillion gallons of tranmission fluid and a lot of reading. Oh, and I can only assume I'll need some specialized tools that I don't currently have and probably won't use a second time... Anybody care to clue me in on that? Got some useful links for me? Recommend some manuals?

 

Probably a good kit but for half the price you can get a decent rebuild kit and new bands at TPS in Little Rock. Problem is what you find inside when getting into it, like worn thrust washers, worn drums and such. Is a very easy to build tranny for most gear heads. I have had several people bring me their c4's and I have bought the kits and bands and done the valve body mod's, and only get 200.00. I have had excellant results in both racing and street performance. It is just a hobby on my part, but really enjoy doing them once and awhile. PaulS is the pro on them and seem's to know his tranny's inside out. I know once you get into building one, you will find they are a dream to do compared to the other one's you mentioned.

 

Never tried to do a trans myself, just spent a gazillion dollars for bad rebuilt ones. PM Pauls and see what he says...

 

Dave, "Old Guy", is close enough to you if he would be willing to do it. If I were closer, I'd ask him to do all my trans jobs. His price is half of what I paid for my last one, 'course the internals were very worn so that ran up the price some.
JMO,
Jerry

 

Thanks for the encouragement. I have discussed the matter with my wife and I believe I'm gonna go through with it. Not only is it the least expensive way to get a proper rebuilt transmission, but I'd be very happy to add a transmission build to my skill set. I'm looking forward to the experience. I will of course be asking a hell of a lot of questions...

On further searching I do see a kit that I think is gonna be a better deal. This one includes the torque converter and I can actually get a higher stall with it, which is something I need anyway. (I assume I should not reuse my current converter.) Includes both front and rear bands too, and steels. Optionally I can specify Borg-Warner or Raybestos clutches. Is there a difference?

I have seen kevlar bands advertised in my searches. Are these a worthwhile upgrade, or a waste? I am hard on a drivetrain and I do have a pretty healthy engine, but we're not talking about a monster. A little nitrous might come into the picture one day in the future, but nothing ridiculous...

 

Faceless,
Before you remove your transmission try this:
Get a rear servo piston and seal assembly - one piece and a rear servo seal (square rubber ring) these are cheap compared to a tranny rebuild.
Jack the car up - way up and put it on blocks or good stands.
Tighten the rear servo up to 10 foot pounds and lock it there.
Remove the rear servo cover - have a pan ready because some fluid is likely to come out. (four 5/16" bolts)
The servo piston will pop out because there is a spring behind it.
Lubricate the new piston with Vaseline or ATF.
Clean the servo cover and servo sealing area with solvent or paint thinner.
Coat the new servo cover seal with lock-tite Gasket Maker (very thin coat - .010" thin) and place it on the cleaned cover.
Install the spring and piston into the servo housing and install the cover with the four 5/16" bolts and tighten them all hand tight. Torque them evenly to 18 foot pounds - NO MORE.
Back the adjustment out and retighten to 10 inch pounds and then back it out 2 1/2 turns and tighten the lock nut while holding the adjustment screw so it doesn't turn.
Start the engine (still on the stands) and let it idle in park while you fill it to half way between the FULL and ADD marks.
Run it through the forward gears - 1, 2, and drive back to 2 and then 1.
Run it back and forth through the gears for a few minutes and then put in neutral.
Press the brake pedal hard to stop the tires from spinning and slip it into park.
Recheck the fluid level with the engine idling in PARK. Fill it to halfway between the FULL and ADD marks.
Take it off the stands and take it for a test drive - check to see that it has reverse first - then take it out on the road.

 

Kevlar bands are for drag racing and not recommended for street use. The reason they work for drag racing and not for street is that they slip - about 50 RPM when fully locked up. In a drag race you are in second for just a few moments and the slippage is controllable. On the street you could be in second when in traffic for a long time - the slippage causes a lot of heat and it will burn the C4 up in a very short time.
Use the Raybestos clutches - they are slightly better. Be sure that you use PayPal with this seller - there are quite a few buyers that have complained about no refund (ad says refund is an exchange - not cash) - PayPal gives you some protection. No one can sell new converters for $120 much less a kit with all he advertizes and a converter. I wouldn't buy from him just because I think he is suspicious - He has a lot of coments from the same buyer...... does anyone buy this many transmissions and parts? - I am just real cautious about people who sell more than is realistic for less than is realistic.
Remember the old saying, "Let the buyer beware"

 

I'm pulling my engine & trans today (the engine is sold) and will have a 6 cyl C-4 for sale. Don't know if they're different internally than the V-8's are, but (I think) the bellhousings are removeable.

Russ

 

Hm. I'm glad I didn't make the impulse decision last night to buy that kit. I'm going to call and talk to the guy, see what he says about it. I do see that he's selling converters pretty cheap too. Says they're rebuilt, so maybe that's why they're so cheap?

 

I had some problems with my C4. Junked it for a T5. Overdrive is the best!

 

Do you have a lot of money and effort in your T-5 conversion, Earl?

I DO want to do this right, but I have to keep it inexpensive because it's a surprise that we didn't budget for and we're a family of three on one income...

But, I have just come across a wrecked '90 Mustang GT with a T-5, and I'm trying to see what kind of price I can get for the parts I need.

Do you think I could get everything I need, or nearly everything, from this donor car? If so, and if the price is right, I'm on it!

 

Faceless; if you have a V8 or 250 6cyl, yep, you can get ALMOST everything. The bell, clutch, pedal set (got to modify it, but works), shifter and your stock drive shaft will work. You will need a cross member (pm 71gold for a beautiful crossmember). I think with what you have, you could get out of it about the same as fixing the C4. And, you get much better gas mileage with the overdrive. I spent a lot on my conversion, but I chose to, and have it done for lack of time. But you have almost everything you need. Consider it. Do a search on the T5 conversion on the board, and you will get a good idea of what you can expect. Good luck, either way.

 

So a T5 is definitely on the table then. I'm still looking at other stuff though. Looks like I can get a transmission from a '96 Crown Vic for pretty cheap. That's an AOD, right? Or is it computer controlled? For an AOD, all I need is a crossmember, right?

Edit: Okay, so that's not an AOD. But I can get an AOD for about $400...

 

If you get a non-computer trans. The best guy to talk to about the AOD is 71gold. He swapped his C4 out for an AOD. He loves it.