Well, she's a 250 footer after we cleaned the mildew off her but has terminal floor pan rust. Searched the forum and the general find was a recommendation for 1971 Mustang floorpans since they are reproduction pieces easily obtained. Is it worth the repair or look for another car?
if thats all thats rotten then yes its worth it to repair it.I used 65/66 mustang pans to repair mine.But it wasent even close to the amount of damage you have there. Mine was the forward sections of the front foot well at the joint between it and the toe board.check and see if the cowels leak.Dump a bucket of water in it and see if it comes out on the floor.Good luck.
Yes, it is easily worth the repair! I have a 72 with slightly less damage and I am definitely going to repair it. The car is just too nice to scrap.
Looks like a keeper to me. I'd do what Mavman says nd check out the cowls. That rust came from water getting in somewhere. My sprint needs a drivers side floor panel also but the water came in through the window seal.
Thats not bad. Repair one side at a time. Here is some reading http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/projectbuild/155_0207_1967_plymouth_valiant_new_floor/index.html Yeah, I know it's a Mopar site but metal is metal and they both came from Detroit
Why is the gasket for the wiper arm shaft on the floor? thats the gasket that seals the shaft to the cowl, it's not all rotted away up there is it?? Check the torque boxes.
hackney'd sir.... SEAM SEALER... duct tape and used chewing gum.... gotta keep it pro.... lol even if you've got problems in the torque boxes I'd throw my vote to fix.... I started on what I thought was minimal rust in the toe board of one and ended up having patches in the torque box inner rocker inner fender apron and both ends of the floor that meet on top of the torque box.... at least you can see what you're starting with and mentally prepare...
i believe i was the first to try.. but i went to mustangsunlimited.com and orders left and right side 71 mustang floor boards and welded them in. worked like a champ, with some shrink to fit hammering needed.
I got sheet metal, a new pair of tin snips, Made a cardboard template, copied it to the new metal, got it to fit, cut out the old floor and welded it in. Cost about $6 for metal per side,. [plus cost of seam sealer, Rust stopper and 2 black rattle cans for finish. P.S. Be careful of the cross brace under the seats. I needed to fix mine after I cut it off. heheh