72 Mercury Comet GT in Germany - Page 15

**tody** · 2009-11-27, 16:23

well, apparently they were able to get the frame rail back together. but the floor needed more patching than expected...

**blugene** · 2009-11-27, 16:28

Fixing to start on the body or did I miss that?

**tody** · 2009-11-29, 15:31

gene, where were you? bodywork is nearly finished

in the meantime i was able to take some more stuff apart - all four doors i have now, the mach1 seats and the wiring harness which looks really bad in some places...

oh, and i found out that i actually have a torino engine, casting D2OE-6015-AB. Casting date is 2G21 which i assume is 21st of July 1972, right? does this mean i still have a decent compression ratio and not the block with the odd 8.229 deck height? i'm asking because the partial vin stamped in the block indicates a 73 atlanta car...

Mavman72 · 2009-11-29, 16:00

Yup...short deck...8.206"

**tody** · 2009-12-30, 10:48

ok, before everyone thinks i didn't do any work on my car i'll post the last pictures for this year.
i started cleaning up the underside of the car so it can be painted properly. quite a lot of work, unfortunately:

you can also see how much of the floors had to be replaced. and how well the torque box that mean_maverick sent me fits!

more pictures next year

**blugene** · 2009-12-30, 11:39

Gotta be some of the most extensive work to floors I seen yet. So then it gets cleaned and painted then undercoated?

**tody** · 2009-12-30, 16:34

thanks, gene.
i'll grind down the welds before painting, the car still looks very rough.

then it will indeed be painted - but not undercoated after painting. i have a hard time scraping all the black mess off the car which the previous owner advertised as "rust protection". it was just a cheap way of hiding all the rust

i have talked to the guy who will be doing the paintwork. according to him, the best way will be a layer of primer, a thin layer of a special undercoating and then a final layer of paint. thus, the paint will stay flexible and will not crack off when hit by stones.

**blugene** · 2009-12-30, 16:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by tody

thanks, gene.
i'll grind down the welds before painting, the car still looks very rough.

then it will indeed be painted - but not undercoated after painting. i have a hard time scraping all the black mess off the car which the previous owner advertised as "rust protection". it was just a cheap way of hiding all the rust

i have talked to the guy who will be doing the paintwork. according to him, the best way will be a layer of primer, a thin layer of a special undercoating and then a final layer of paint. thus, the paint will stay flexible and will not crack off when hit by stones.

I was thinking that you might want some kinda under coating. What's the special stuff? Rhinoliner?

**tody** · 2009-12-30, 16:57

to be honest, i haven't got a clue. but if the rhino thing got it's name from the way it looks, it might be the right thing.

oh, and as far as the body color is concerned - i couldn't convince my girlfriend (and myself) to put the car back to it's original lime green so it'll be the factory correct ford dark blue metallic as used in 72...

PAINTANK · 2009-12-30, 17:33

Lime green would be good.

This thread is awesome.

2009-11-27, 16:28	#142
blugene Senior member Join Date: 2004-07-25 Location: Marietta, OK Posts: 9,470 Vehicle(s): 73 Comet GT, 75 Comet, 72 Comet GT iTrader: 36 (100%) Images: 55	Fixing to start on the body or did I miss that? __________________

2009-12-30, 11:39	#146
blugene Senior member Join Date: 2004-07-25 Location: Marietta, OK Posts: 9,470 Vehicle(s): 73 Comet GT, 75 Comet, 72 Comet GT iTrader: 36 (100%) Images: 55	Gotta be some of the most extensive work to floors I seen yet. So then it gets cleaned and painted then undercoated? __________________

2009-12-30, 17:33	#150
PAINTANK Cometosis Obsessivus Join Date: 2007-05-27 Location: South Central, North Carolina Posts: 2,842 Vehicle(s): 1973 Comet 2 dr iTrader: 5 (100%) Images: 10	Lime green would be good. This thread is awesome. __________________

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2009-11-27, 16:23	#141
tody Senior Member Join Date: 2008-04-12 Location: cologne, germany Posts: 1,092 Vehicle(s): 72 comet gt, 65 mustang iTrader: 15 (100%) Images: 8	well, apparently they were able to get the frame rail back together. but the floor needed more patching than expected...

2009-11-29, 15:31	#143
tody Senior Member Join Date: 2008-04-12 Location: cologne, germany Posts: 1,092 Vehicle(s): 72 comet gt, 65 mustang iTrader: 15 (100%) Images: 8	gene, where were you? bodywork is nearly finished in the meantime i was able to take some more stuff apart - all four doors i have now, the mach1 seats and the wiring harness which looks really bad in some places... oh, and i found out that i actually have a torino engine, casting D2OE-6015-AB. Casting date is 2G21 which i assume is 21st of July 1972, right? does this mean i still have a decent compression ratio and not the block with the odd 8.229 deck height? i'm asking because the partial vin stamped in the block indicates a 73 atlanta car...

2009-11-29, 16:00	#144
Mavman72 Spring has sprung??? Join Date: 2007-04-24 Location: Buffalo N.Y. Posts: 5,945 Vehicle(s): 1972 Maverick 2 door.Original V-8 3 spd std shift.Also a 72 one owner Sprint sporting a 351 Windsor iTrader: 15 (100%) Images: 28	Yup...short deck...8.206"

2009-12-30, 10:48	#145
tody Senior Member Join Date: 2008-04-12 Location: cologne, germany Posts: 1,092 Vehicle(s): 72 comet gt, 65 mustang iTrader: 15 (100%) Images: 8	ok, before everyone thinks i didn't do any work on my car i'll post the last pictures for this year. i started cleaning up the underside of the car so it can be painted properly. quite a lot of work, unfortunately: you can also see how much of the floors had to be replaced. and how well the torque box that mean_maverick sent me fits! more pictures next year

2009-12-30, 16:34	#147
tody Senior Member Join Date: 2008-04-12 Location: cologne, germany Posts: 1,092 Vehicle(s): 72 comet gt, 65 mustang iTrader: 15 (100%) Images: 8	thanks, gene. i'll grind down the welds before painting, the car still looks very rough. then it will indeed be painted - but not undercoated after painting. i have a hard time scraping all the black mess off the car which the previous owner advertised as "rust protection". it was just a cheap way of hiding all the rust i have talked to the guy who will be doing the paintwork. according to him, the best way will be a layer of primer, a thin layer of a special undercoating and then a final layer of paint. thus, the paint will stay flexible and will not crack off when hit by stones.

2009-12-30, 16:57	#149
tody Senior Member Join Date: 2008-04-12 Location: cologne, germany Posts: 1,092 Vehicle(s): 72 comet gt, 65 mustang iTrader: 15 (100%) Images: 8	to be honest, i haven't got a clue. but if the rhino thing got it's name from the way it looks, it might be the right thing. oh, and as far as the body color is concerned - i couldn't convince my girlfriend (and myself) to put the car back to it's original lime green so it'll be the factory correct ford dark blue metallic as used in 72...