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Old 2009-06-12, 15:19   #41
Rando76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tody View Post
ok, if etching is "ätzen", it's not quite correct.

the german term is Beize (noun) or beizen (verb). it's a slimy white-ish looking mass you apply on the paint with a brush. it reacts with the moisture in the air and loosens up the paint which starts to peel and can now be scraped off easily.

so let's stick with stripping, that does it for me.

whatever the translation is - it worked quite well. it had to apply it a couple of times though, as it had to go through 4 layers of paint.
the factory primer stays intact, so the raw metal is still protected.
Oh, I understand now. Sorry, I don't speak good German. It sounds like stripping the paint would be to beizen.

With the four layers you had to go through, chemically stripping it saved alot of time!
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Old 2009-06-13, 13:53   #42
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third day of work in a row. the taillight panel is completely stripped.



i removed the badly fitting piece on the rear passenger floorpan and found an attempt to repair a rear torquebox about which i could only laugh out loud.



next the passenger side rocker panel - that's when i stopped laughing and thought of getting rid of this project for the first time. luckily, this thought only lasted for ten seconds. played "the meteors - you ain't gonna bring me down" a couple of times on the stereo to cheer myself up. this worked quite well.



then onto the engine bay, which needs more cleaning next weekend. out of sheer interest i put the wire wheel onto the tank and found pretty solid metal under the rust. at least something...

the pictures are here: http://www.72comet.de/gt/index.php?id=30

i started a new thread on the replacement rocker panels i found at autokrafters to see wether they are any good. something definitely needs to be done about that!
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Old 2009-06-21, 07:42   #43
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in the meantime i have found a NOS rocker panel for the passenger side on ebay. i will buy a replacement part for the driver's side.
i'll also get the early mustang cowl panels so i can at least use the little "hats" for the cowl repair. i'll also try fitment of the rear outer wheelhouse patch panels from the early mustang.
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Old 2009-06-21, 07:46   #44
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yesterday's work included stripping the engine bay (still not finished, way too many small corners) and the a-pillars where the doors are mounted. i also cleaned up the radiator support. found lots of corners which need fixing...






http://www.72comet.de/gt/index.php?id=31

as of today, roughly 65 hours spent on the car!
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Old 2009-06-21, 13:24   #45
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Wow, you're sure getting a lot accomplished. Looks like its coming along nicely.
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Old 2009-06-21, 16:14   #46
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Looks like the same rust that I have on my Comet. Had the same issues on my 70 Mustang. We fabbed up a few pieces and only replaced the top portions. I think Mavaholic on here had a pretty good thread with pictures on where he fixed those spots. Your making pretty quick progress. - Matt
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Old 2009-06-22, 14:17   #47
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thanks for the kind words
i found quite a few threads with lots of helpful pictures. what i don't understand is why the fenders are intact even though the apron below is completely rusted...
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Old 2009-06-22, 16:20   #48
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yeah a pretty common rust spot. my theory is the spot welding caused a change in the metal that encourages electrical current to flow in paths allowing\encouraging faster oxidation. i have seen this on other types of vehicle in other locations as well... just a nutty theory though....
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Old 2009-06-22, 17:15   #49
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I just wonder whether or not this would have been avoided if there would have been seam sealer applied to top and bottom of these seams from the factory. The area looks like it would wick in water pretty easy from top and bottom. - Matt
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Old 2009-07-07, 12:40   #50
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Matt, you are right - Mavaholic's thread is invaluable for me. he has all the detail pictures of the areas which need to be fixed on my car. that's surely a great guideline when finally starting the welding!
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