Took my AC/heater box out today after dreading the job for over a year. It was not as bad a job as I had invisioned. I have to thank "Jeff" in Georgia for the instructions on removal linked to his home/web page. I also had some diagrams from my 73-79 Ford Master Parts CD. The job took longer cuz I had some holes made thru the package tray for the mech water temp and oil pressure gauges. I had to remove the sender from the engine and bring it thru firewall and pack tray B4 I cud get the tray out. I removed the oil line at the gauge, so did not have to bring it thru the firewall. I studied the instructions and diagrams a few times and it went well. The box is in pretty gud shape just a few small cracks, have to look hard to find them. I think I broke the drain spout off at the bottom of the box trying to pull it away from the firewall; forgot to take the hose off. I don' t think that will be difficult to glass a piece of copper in the box for new drain spout. I plan on new, blower/fan, have the evap restored and new heat core that I have had for a year. Im getting vac pump tommorrow and test the vac motors B4 I put the thing back on the firewall. It looks like it will be more work cleaning, replacing foam insulation, painting the rusty steel pieces associated w/ the unit and most of all handling the brittle 40 yr old unit w/ TLC hopefully to prevent any damage. I was able to salvage the rubber mounts/insulators to remount the heatcore. I have not removed the evap yet. The car came Georgia so when the heater core started leaking they just did not replace it. I guess they did'nt need it for whatever reason. Although, the car is used now only for recreation/fun I drive it sometimes when heat wud surely make for more pleasant motoring not to mention ocassionally the need for defrost, regardless of time of the year or geographical location. I removed the unit by myself; I may have to look for assistance to replace it. Anyway, I am at the point of no-turning-back. So, committed to success. More to come on the re-install.
Didn't have to look hard to see the cracks in my heater box. A little epoxy glue along with aluminum flashing to help support the breaks got mine put back together.
i pulled mine aehile back too. a few cracks. put a new heater core in it then i decided to leave it all out. so anybody want one? pm me
Anyone know where I can get some 2 1/2 inch flex ducting that connects to AC ducts. ? I need to replace mine cuz it's dry rotted. Also, I need a vaccum motor/switch for the fresh air door inlet. I think it's in parts group #18A318. Any suggestions?
Mojo, while it's not required, a helper is real handy when you go back to install it. One of you get under the dash and make sure everything lines up right, and the other stands outside to start the nuts on the firewall. Makes it much easier to keep everything in place when bolting it back in.... Craig or mean_maverick should have a vac motor that will work.
Just spoted this on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-1-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
That's seems high for 3 feet of hose (though I suppose the fact it is over spiraled steel wire accounts for something). I got mine (plastic spiral, easy to cut, we'll see how it holds up I guess) from Nostalgic Air Parts for less than $2/foot: http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/air-conditioning/2-5-inch-flexible-duct-hose-57.php
I never found an exact replacement, but I did find a few that looked like they would be compatible -- they were very expensive though - over $50. I ended up getting a good one from Craig. If you get a used one make sure you test it with a vacuum pump to see if it leaks.
I thought that this was something hard to find since Everett asked about where he could get some. If that was truely the case, the Ebay price would have been just right then
Thanks for the link Matt. I will see abt getting some of this hose; the price is right. It will probably cost more for the shipping than the hose.
I will most likely get some help installing the unit. I have all the rust on the vent doors and evap "steel perimeter" cleaned and painted w/ alum paint. I sure it will endure as long as I own the car, so after I get all the parts I need - bak it will go. I have new heat core, evap tested good, add small alum strips over screw holes to spread load over wider area of brittle glass mounting surface and getting new screws in place of the rusty one's. The fire wall in/outside almost rust free even thou the heater core had been leaking at some point. Pix 4&5, all parts painted and ready to reinstall. Thanks guys for all the info.
Back in the 90's, I worked for a Boise based company called Morrison Knudsen and we rebuilt EMD locomotives in the Mountain Top, Pa facility. In the cab, there were a lot of phonallic and plastic pieces that needed to be made to look new again. We used to turn down the pressure in the Pangborne glass beader and clean the material. Then wash it and clear coat it. It really brought out the texture of the parts. I might give it a try when I do my heater box and see what happens
