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#1 |
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Member
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Headers cause Bumpsteer - Help !
Ok so I installed hedman headers and the drop bracket for the power steering ram. Headers are great, steering works ok....BUT when I hit a bump I change lanes. The power ram is no longer parallel to the center link so it is most likely the cause of the bumpsteer.
I know I am not the only guy who has done this swap. Other then holding the steering wheel tight what have others done to fix this ?? ![]() -Removing power steering or headers is not an acceptable answer ![]() Thanks Sean |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
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Make sure that your drop bracket is not flexing. Have someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you lay on the ground and watch the bracket. If it moves back and forth, that might be the cause of your bump steer.
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#3 |
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Chronologically Gifted
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I had a problem with the bushings at the lowering bracket wearing out very quickly. check to see if they are still intact
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He who dies with the most toys, is, nonetheless, still dead. |
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#5 |
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Member extrordiare
Join Date: 2004-05-02
Location: Seattle area
Posts: 4,858
Vehicle(s): 1966 Mustang, 1972, 73, 73 and 73 MavericksiTrader: 6 (100%)
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If you can hold the steering wheel and it prevents the side travel it is NOT bump steer. what you describe is an alignment problem or worn parts.
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Paul 1 each 72 2dr., 73 2dr., 73 4dr., 66 Mustang Coupe. |
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#6 |
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Member
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BUMPSTEER is a change in alignment angles(usually toe) when the suspension compresses or rebounds. The ram being aligned only affects the assist, not geometry of the suspension. I would check the ball stud for looseness in the valve and the bushings at the drop bracket like the others mentioned. Frank posted the procedure on another thread for adjusting the ball socket in the valve and greasing it will help also. Wider tires will make it much worse as well. Any other changes than the headers? Sounds like there is a little more going on than the ram relocation.
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"Do or do not, there is no try." ![]() Yoda |
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#7 |
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Member
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Lots of changes were done at the same time. disc brake conversion from a 75 Maverick, Addco front sway bar, headers, drop bracket, etc.
Since the brakes came from a P/S V8 Maverick so I can rule that out. Tie rods were for a 75 and I saw no difference in the linkage when I had the cars side by side. Front end parts are tight, I did the alignment myself and went 1/2 degree more on the camber. Strut rod bushings, ball joints, front springs and shocks are new. I hear you about the frame nuts pulling out. I had the same problem and welded a piece of 1/4" plate to the frame. Overall height of the drop bracket did not change since I already had a 1/4" spacer above the bracket to get it to clear the headers. The p/steering control valve was rebuilt last year, no play in the ball socket. The P/Steering ram is unknown age but the socket to the center link is tight and I have new rubber bushings where it connects to the drop bracket. Thanks for all the suggestions guys ![]() Anybody recommend a different header that clears the P/Steering? |
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#8 |
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Member extrordiare
Join Date: 2004-05-02
Location: Seattle area
Posts: 4,858
Vehicle(s): 1966 Mustang, 1972, 73, 73 and 73 MavericksiTrader: 6 (100%)
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Why more camber - the usual settings for good handling use less camber.
It sounds like you should have the alignment checked by a professional.
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Paul 1 each 72 2dr., 73 2dr., 73 4dr., 66 Mustang Coupe. |
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#9 |
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Member
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all of them I know of require the ps ram to be dropped with the exception of shorties. What did you end up with on camber(+/-), what size tire are you using, and did you lower the car at all?
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"Do or do not, there is no try." ![]() Yoda |
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#10 |
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Member
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i like lots of neg camber, i run -1.3 degrees on the front on my daily driver
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347 4340 forged stroker, h beam rods, forged alum pistons, lunati voodoo cam, 233/241 duration, .538/560 lift, stealth intake, holley 750 carb. Roush200 cylinder heads, hooker 6901 headers with dual 2.5inch 40 series flows and h pipe, C4 tranny with 3k stall convertor |
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