I understand that clutches can be the same for a 302 and a 351 with a toploader 4 spd. What about flywheels? Is a 157 tooth flywheel only for a 302 and a 164 tooth flywheel only for a 351? I have seen where some people have used a 164 tooth flywheel on a 302. Can you use a 157 tooth flywheel on a 351 or is it 164 exclusive? Jim
They can be interchanged as long as the proper imbalance is taken into consideration,as well as the proper bellhousing. 164 tooth uses a larger bell housing. 157 uses a smaller bell. All 351s' are 28oz imbalance...302s' are 28oz 0r 50oz as of 1981.
I had a 164 tooth on one engine but changed to the 157 as it uses the smaller bellhousing. Gives you a little more room for the headers, and every little bit helps.
So, how much stronger is the 164 tooth setup or is the 157 just as strong? Can you use a 157 setup on a 351C/CJ/4sp or would it be too weak? Thanks. Jim
If you are talking fly wheels...The 164 is stronger by virtue of the fact that you can put an 11 clutch on it. best you can get on a 157 is 10.5 inch. That exta 1/2 inch overall dia adds a fair amount of friction surface.
Actually, I was referring to the entire bellhousing, clutch, and flywheel setup. Is there a major advantage of going with the 164 tooth setup or can a 157 tooth setup be ok with a 351C? I am getting ready to put a new clutch in the Stang conv before driving it to Louisville next month and do not know which it has in it. I have an entire setup for the 302, new 157 tooth flywheel, bellhousing, clutch, etc and was wondering if it would work on the 351. Thanks. Jim
It will work just fine but I would see which one has a bigger clutch (Diameter wise) and go with that one. The other advantage to the smaller one is a bit less reciprocating mass.(will rev quicker) (negligible difference) on a street car with average HP and Torque. Also as Don pointed out...The smaller package with the 157 tooth set up gives you more room for headers and such. As far as structural rigidity is concerned...Marginal improvement with the smaller one (less mass/less stress)
If you are going to be racing you should note that clutches can fly apart in foot severing style - use the appropriate scattershield for your own safety and the safety of those around you.
Strictly a show car/street cruiser. 2:75 rear gears. Not into racing. That is why I am even considering the smaller 157 setup. I have been saving it for the red Comet GT. The clutch is not slipping, just shaky when taking off, probably just a flywheel situation. I am getting ready to drive it 2000 miles on a trip to Louisville and back and wanted to correct the shaky feeling. Jim
Rear end ratio will cause this problem. I can't run a 3.00 in my Falcon and this is with a 24.5" tire. It acts like I'm starting my roll in 2nd gear. With my 3.25 gear I still have to pedal the clutch once or twice to get rolling without the shaking.
the wrong clutch (to grabby) can cause "chatter", a bad motor mount can cause chatter, a bad clutch can cause chatter. if you get the right clutch you should be able to slip it to get moving and not have it chatter.
I have had the same clutch in the car for 12 years. The shaking just started a few months ago. The problem is the car sits most of the time and is only driven a few hundred miles a year. My black XR7 has a shaky clutch now because the mechanic did not resurface the flywheel, just used sandpaper to smooth it, I found out after the fact. So, I think the problem is in the flwheel. I can buy a new 164 flywheel on Ebay, but I already have the 157 one and was looking at not spending money on a new one when I already had one that might work. Thanks again for the replies. Jim
When was the last time the clutch was adjusted.(adjustment does change as the disc wears) Improper clutch adjustment will cause chatter as well.
Never been adjusted in 12 years. Maybe we need to check that out first. A friend and his son were going to put it up on their new lift next week. Perhaps we should check that first. Thanks for the suggestion. Jim
