1970 Ford Maverick I6

Average User Rating:
4/5,
Ownership Satus:
Currently own it
Year:
1970
Engine:
200 - 6 cylinder
Color:
Rattle Can/Rust
  1. gbpack36

    gbpack36 Member

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    mojo likes this.
  2. gregmaverick

    gregmaverick Member

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    The six has a LOT of potential!!!
     

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  3. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    Gregmaverick, I like it! What mods have you done to the 200? Eager to follow the progress. Ur upscaling of the inline will surely stand out any where you go.
     
  4. gregmaverick

    gregmaverick Member

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    Head: 1976 with 1 3/4" carburetor hole. I brought to a machine shop to have 0.060 milled off, larger stainless steel intake & exhaust valves & double valve springs. I installed 1.6:1 rocker arms (used in the 6 cylinder jeep engines) from Rocker Arms Unlimited.
    Carburetor: using a carburetor adapter from "Stovebolt" (but can be purchased from Summit Racing), to adapt a 36/32 Weber. For the hood scoop, I used a Torino "shaker" that was butchered. But, fine for me, because I mounted directly to the hood. I used "cold air" plumbing and an in-line airbox air filter.
    Distributor: 1978 (Fairmont six) Ford Duraspark. But, I "gutted" the control module, and using a GM HEI control module.
    Timing Chain: Full roller timing chain.
    Exhaust: Stainless steel headers, Jones Exhaust "X-pipe", straight-through 18" glass packs, mandrel bent 45 degree 2" pipes that exit just ahead of the passenger side rear tires, And, chrome resonator tips. (Really lost the 6 cylinder "whizzy" sound, to a mellow one.
    Fan: Aluminum light weight fan. (And, aluminum radiator. Modified a Mustang radiator shroud.)
    Fuel Pump: took off the mechanical, and installed an Airtex electric near the fuel tank.

    The car had a three-on-the-tree. I removed the manual, and installed a C4, with a Transgo shift kit and a "C" code shift servo. (used on the Shelbys and K code Mustangs). It was a tight fit, but I installed a "T-handle" '70 Mustang floor shifter, and designed my own linkage. I replaced the 7 1/2" rear-end with an 8" with five lugs, and replaced the front spindles with 5-lug 10" breaks.
    Found a used "belly-bar" AKA: cross member brace from a Maverick V8. And, a 1" front sway bar. For the rear, I'm using an old set of "slapper" traction bars that I modified to fit.
     

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  5. gregmaverick

    gregmaverick Member

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    Here is a newer picture showing the exhaust. The tail lights are from a 1970 Torino.
     

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  6. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    U got nice build going Greg, just wondering why exhaust is coming out right at pass door? No concern abt getting c-monoxide in the pass compartment?
     
  7. gregmaverick

    gregmaverick Member

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    No, I never smell exhaust (And yes, carbon monoxide is odorless & colorless).
    1) It sounds great
    2) Less restrictive.
    3) This summer (or spring...rains a lot in Oregon), I may run two pipes back to the rear on the passenger side - following the original exhaust route. Or, use a "Y" pipe, and run a single 2 1/2". The "Y" pipes you generally find, are used to split a single exhaust. But, they don't work backwards! If you notice that the 2 ended side are facing each other.
     

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