Ok, after finding out exactly how much freaking oil my maverick burns, I've decided I need to start collecting parts for the engine rebuild while the car is going to be in the restoration shop. Things I'm buying new/used: -edelbrock performer intake -new carberator -oil/water/ac/starter/ things I would like to re use for now: -block -oil pan -heads that leaves pretty much the internals pistons,rods,rocks, crank, cam . what should I pick and choose here? I'd like to put down 300hp some day, but that won't be until I upgrade the heads, I hear the stock crank can be reused without a problem and a beefier cam might make it's way into the block. Anyone have any favorites as far as pistons, rods, lifters, rockers go? This is strictly a weekend-racer car. I won't be running N20 in it or flying down the track every single night. I just want to accomplish the whole "hey is that a maverick!" "2nd gear scratch" whoa......
stock rods, cheap flat-top cast pistons, crank. The heads were different from year to year, so look for the small chamber '76-earlier heads, which will give about 9:1 compression. You can get hydraulic camshafts for the same price as a replacement cam nowdays so I'd upgrade to that. Use an RPM intake and 600-750 carb, 1 5/8" long-tube headers & a free flowing exhaust system and 300 HP is a breeze.
if 210 hp is enough, find a 302 from 1971. stock 210 hp. for another couple hundred, you can go with headers and an exhaust..
nope...just about right, and people will argue about it all day long. With a single plane manifold a smaller carb works good fine, and with a dual plane, you can get away with a larger carb because the dual plane normally has more velocity at the port and carburetor--which increases the booster signal and lets you use a larger carb than normal. Larger carb, not necessarily more power, but you can usually tell a difference in the higher revs, provided it's jetted right and the timing is set correctly.
mavman, For drag racing the 750 to 780 Holley would be great on the 302 at 300 HP BUT for street running the throttle response will be better with a vacuum secondary 600 carb. The reason the larger carb works better for drag racing is that the carb is in the middle of its metering range when the engine is turning its peak RPM. The smaller 600 will be running close to the end of its ability and could lean out if the wrong power valve is used or go over rich if the correct power valve is used. On the street you will rarely be at top RPM and throttle response is much more important than high RPM flow. The Shelby 289 cobra 350 engine used a Holley 780 for the above mentioned reasons. PaulS
My old '79 302 with '69 heads(removed smog bump), stock '70 flat tops, a Comp cams 268, roller tip rockers, Weiand Action plus intake with a 600double pumper, 3:50 gears ran 13.77 @94mph in the quarter though stock manifolds(street tires too). I figured it made between 230 and 250 hp. It had a slight lope to the idle, got better milage than stock and a lot more power. Very simple and cheap combo...I used to beat of lot of "faster" cars with this in my Mav for years...I also had a c4 trans with a shift kit and a converter from a 250cid(figured it might stall higher than the stock 302 one)
The problem with that, is those #'s are rated the older way, in real world horsepower, that # is closer to 150. 200 budget horsepower??? $400 out the door will buy you a perfectly running used 87-93 302 5.0 HO engine rated at 225 real horsepower, hell, $400 may buy you an entire wrecker mustang which you could sell parts from and make a profit. Get an 85-93 engine, better yet 87+ save yourself a lot of time and money (until you have the right amount of cash to build the engine you really want) the later model 302 will go right in with minimal modifications. I'm doing this, and am using a weiand stealth intake, holley carb, c4 with the 157 tooth 50 flexplate, and an external electric fuel pump that corbin Johnson suggested.
Here's what I did on a budget. I wanted to build the engine for tork & be streetable. I kept the block, crank, & heads. Had the block bored .030 for $109.00. Bought a regrind cam 512 degrees lift & 234 degrees duration (equivalant to the Edlebrock cam) $94.00. Bought an Edelbrock RPM Performer intake $190.00. Bought a Holley Street Avenger Carb $325.00 (570cfm). Bought a Master Engine Kit $352.00 (includes the following: connecting rod set, main bearing set, pistons, piston ring set, cam bearing set, timing chain & gears, oil pump, oil pump shaft, freeze plug set, & master gasket set). Bought flow tech headers $90.00 & power steering drop down bracket $15.00. Would highly suggest the heavy duty oil pump shaft $17.00 & a finer mesh screen for the oil pump(I twisted & broke it the first time I got on it) Found a piece of silicone gasket in the oil pump (seized it up). Nothing worse that no oil pressure. LOL And there you have 335 horsepower on a budget (pulls hard through 6300 RPM). Total without intake manifold, carb, & headers $672.00. With the complete package listed $1,292.00. You can always add the carb, intake, & headers later. You will be 250+ hp without them. I do have the prices on other upgrades I have done (3 core radiator, high flow water pump, trans cooler, etc). I also rebuilt the trans with a shift kit & 2500 RPM tork converter that I can give you a total on. Hope this helps....
I appreciate all of the replys and advice guys, keep them coming. Also, a friend of mine who works at a machine shop says his boss has some GT40 302 heads he's looking to sell, would these be decent?
