if i was to get a 302 from a junk yard what kind of car do you suggest it be. i read about the explorer in another thread. what years and how would i be able to tell if it had the gt40 heads or not?
All the 5.0 Explorers had GT40 heads. Ditto for the Mountaineer 5.0. The 96's had the std GT40 head. The 94-97 E & F 150 5.0's had E7 heads and the same roller cam the Explorer/Mountaineers had. It's just a tad less cam than the 85-95 Stang HO cam. Another one to look for is a late 80's to early 90's Lincoln Mark VII LSC, this was the same 5.0 HO the Mustangs had, only difference was the larger alternator bracket for the big 130 amp alternator.
Would those GT40 Explorer heads fit on my 73 block? And if so what would it do for my engines performance. I can get a wrecked Eddie Bauer Explorers engine pretty cheap from family.
I'd think that if you can get the entire motor you'd be ahead. Pardon the pun! It's not only the heads you would want. The roller cam helps out and I'm not so sure about the Explorers, but in the Mustangs they had forged pistons for several years. Some of the experts can give you more info on that part. But my point is that if you can get the entire motor, they have advantages over the older ones.
85-92 had forged pistons. However that is only an advantage if the block doesn't need bored. The 85-86 roller cams are supposed to be more aggressive than later versions. GT40p heads on Exploders have a whole nother set of issues fitting early model Fords due to relocated spark plugs. Then, if you have a manual tranny, there is not a boss on the block to mount the linkage. This can be overcome, but if you know, it won't catch you off gaurd.
my machine shop man tells me 1969-1970 302's had more nickle in the blocks.guess this is a good thing? also flat top pistons is a plus.
He's right. The earlier blocks are thicker and better made. Very few had flat tops, and even fewer would be in a position to continue using those flat tops 40 years later! It is pretty common for later model 5.0 blocks to split in half because Ford thinned the casting more and more over the years. Still takes quite a bit to do it though. I wouldn't worry about it for a street engine. Pay more attention to the specific deal you find, not zoning in on limiting yourself to a year or something trivial like that. If the difference in strength meant that much to you, you wouldn't be talking about using stock componets such as pistons anyway. Get a roller short block and aftermarket heads. You'll be set as long as you get the best deal you can on a solid short block.
The 86-up blocks have more iron than the 85 roller blocks, it was added in the decks and cylinder bottoms. These blocks don't split till you stroke em to a 347, then try to spin em to 7500. Anything below that, they're fine. The 78-up D8VE block is also a good one, it's got 10 more lbs iron than most.
Never knew that. I wonder about it now. That is the block I built for my 75 back in 92. I beat the heck out of that engine! I built that block just because it was there. It's still clean as a whistle in my uncle's garage. (short block) Forgot what I traded him for...
I found that tidbit of info in Ford's Official 5.0 Mustang book.I've got one too in my shop. It's currently .020 overbore. Ought to make someone a 352 stroker some day.
ok what heads would be better: gt40 heads from the 96 explorers or the now gt40p heads.which is better without and mods to them, and what mods will help and how. what is the highest lope that will work on them cause a want a ford racing ?303 not sure witch one
The P heads flow better, but are a major B!T#H to work with because the spark plugs are angled right into the header pipes on the driver side. I hear they are fine with stock exhaust manifolds, but with my headers, they are a major hassle. You have to drop the exhaust, header, and lift the engine off it's mounts to do ANYTHING with the plugs or wires. So, I will swap anyone my P heads for regular GT40s any day. That aside, the P heads flow REALLY good and are very powerful. If I could figure out a way to work around the plugs, I would keep them. I put platinum plugs in and have only had to mess with melted plug wires since I had them. I will keep them until I can find some non-P GT-40 heads, then I will port them out a bit and run them instead. Check out my website (link below) and on the front page is an index. Find the head installation pages and check out the pics. These came off an explorer, 98 model, I think. By the way, P heads are a problem driver side only... Passenger side Driver side...
Also... I eventually put a header flange from a scrap set of headers between the driver side head and the header with a gasket between the header and flange, and flange and head, to give me some space for a spark plug wire boot. Note the third picture above...that plug is RIGHT against the tube. I also had to run $13 EACH shorty plugs and then 90 degree plug boots to keep them from burning on the header tubes. PM me if you go with P heads and I will tell you all you need to know about living with them. Otherwise, stick with non-P GT-40 heads and you should be fine.
ok thanks, i will probably get the gt40p. i heard that the 96 and earlier explorers had the gt40"s. how hard do you think it would be to have a header made for the drivers side? and i was told that the x303 ford racing cam had too much lope for the stock heads, is this true for the gt40p heads? thanks again
