302 head stud kits clearance

I was just wondering if anyone has used the head stud kits for a 302-based motor in their Maverick/Comet? Would just like to know how easy and how much clearance there is to get the head off/on on these cars with head studs.

I want the ease of being able to line the gasket and heads easier. But if there isn't much clearance for studs, I'll just stick with the regular head bolts.


Thanks everyone.

 

Plenty of room to get the heads off in the car with studs.

 

arp puts alen key holes in the top of the studs so they can be removed and installed with the heads on the motor.

 

Not sure if John's ever actually attempted this type of removal before.. but due to how far out the heads must be raised to clear the upper row of studs.. that would be my best guess at what's required to do it.

On the other hand.. the towers do allow more clearance between them as you move higher up.. so there's that too.

 

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking too. It's already going to be a hassle with the headers. I'll keep pondering.

 

If your block dowels are present, there won't be any issues aligning the heads or gaskets to the block. If they're not there, they NEED to be. Otherwise, heads studs serve no purpose in aligning the heads to the block.

 

I used a extension setting on one of the lower bolts to approximate the height of the long bolts and looks like you can probably get the head off using studs... Still with the availability of quality bolts, I'd go that route(and did)...

 

Thanks everyone! Finally ordering my heads this upcoming week and getting everything in line.

 

Yes I have , in a maverick with 302 and ARP studs. The heads came right off.

 

Cool!.. nice to know since I'll be running full studs.

 

Okay, cool! ARP is the only way for me.

 

Heads can be taken off and put back on in the car...BUT...my experience has been that torquing the heads afterwards is a major PIA! lol It can be done...but with a lot of cursing and gnashing of the teeth! Also, my drivers side header...which isn't the most fun thing in the world to try to get on in the first place...seems to always want to hit on one of the head stud nuts! You can mess with it for an hour...and just when you're about as PO'd as you think you can get, a muscle will twitch or something, and the stupid thing will practically fall in place by itself! Happens every time with me :16suspect

Just something else to think about when it's time. Mine are ARP's as well, and I wouldn't change them for anything...just a couple of the issues I've had to work around.

 

Thanks for the advice! Much appreciated.

 

Torquing the head bolts is difficult in the car regardless of using bolts or studs.

 

Thanks! I think I'm just going to go with the bolts. Like baddad said, the dowels will help with the majority of it. ARP bolts are $50. ARP studs are $115....