I finaly got around to putting in the electric fan this weekend. The car still runs hot, about 200*-210* while driving but "only" goes to 220*-230* when stopped as opposed to the 240-250* I was seeing. In looking at aluminum radiators it seems like they are all 2 core. Is that right? Are you getting better cooling because of design, material or wider rows? I always thought I would go to a 4 row radiator when I swapped out but now I am confused. Also, it seems as if all the aluminum radiators see have the upper hose on the passenger and the lower hose on the drivers side. Mine are both on the passenger side of the radiator, problem? Thanks in advance, Scott
Hi Scott, Yes your assumptions are correct. A two row aluminum radiator is at least as efficient as a 4 row copper of years gone by. Both the materials and the width of the tubes play into that. As for your hose placement, with both hoses on the same side they have to build the radiator differently. It essentially becomes a two pass radiator where the water flows through the core into the tank and through the core again to get back into the motor. Basically the one tank has a divider in it. You have two choices, buy the correct radiator or change the water pump to one that exits on the drivers side. Of course you may run into clearance issues if you change the pump.
rad talk Im thinking about buying a 4 core big block rad out of a 67 cougar its just a little longer than a original Mav rad and about the same hight i believe ,just got to change the rad mounts ,i can get this rad for 75.00 ,ill flush it and i think it will do the job with a 14 inch electric fan pulling air through it ,if im wrong somebody correct me. Jimmy2gates
yes aluminum radiator will help your cooling, i'll give you p/n to the fan and radiator i use on my engine when i get home tonight, check summit racing they have many radiators with differetn enter exit options. one thing is i don't get is why people think 210 is running hot, our everyday drivers won't even turn on the fan if the engine is below 222 degress.
ZoomZoom, I agree, 210* is not terribly hot by todays engines atndards. But the normal operating temp for a 1968 302 is a lot lower than the normal operating temp of a 2006 Mustang GT.
You didn't mention what temperature thermostat you're using. A 180* stat will start to open at 180* +/- a couple and be fully open by 200*. A properly sized cooling system will stabilize somewhere in between with the stat staying part way open. If it's going up to 210* while driving with airflow through the radiator there's a problem somewhere. For awhile I had the same problem with the lower radiator outlet being on the "wrong" side. A 1 3/4" diameter flex pipe crossing from one side to the other cured that.
Well, it may not hurt anything, but if the temp is getting that high it's a sign that something isn't working right. The t-stat is supposed to control the engine temp, the other parts have to support it.
I can see both sides of this. The newer cars are able to get away with the higher temps because of better engine management. i.e.- fuel injection and ignition controls The older motors couldn't get away with that due to detonation caused by the heat, poor fuel management and mechanical low amperage ignitions. If you have late model technology you not only can get away with the higher temps, but it's mandatory for the engine management and emmisions systems. With the older stuff you are better off with the lower temps.
Be sure the inlet and outlet are the same as the mav. I think pre 70 the bottom hose is on the pass. side.
i'd like to find a decently priced aluminum radiator with drivers lower and passenger upper WITH auto tranny hookups.... havent found one yet.... all the summit ones are for manual or external cooler... i run an external cooler and the radiator keeping my tranny at around 160-185 always...*grins
