Alternator not charging

I just recently replaced my alternator about a month ago.This week I started losing charge again.I had a burned out fuseable link wire so I replaced it with a fuse. While I was at it I tested the alternator and found out it was only holding 8 volts so I went and returned the alternator.My battery was completely dead so I charged it up as well.So I hooked everything back up together and it started but my car was running at 12v.I continued to drive all day yesterday and the baterry finally died and I got stuck on the side of the road.Since this is a new alternator I'm guessing I must of hooked up my wiring wrong.I've looked at the diagrams but I can't figure it out myself since I got a 1993 Mustang GT alternator and the charging/starting system has been changed on my Maverick.I took couple pictures of my wiring maybe you guys can help me out...Another thing I noticed was that on this alternator the bottom wiring plug does not lock in like it did on my other alternator.I can pull the connection right out with couple wiggles and with the other alternator it was real hard to disconnect it since it engaged correctly.Could this be an issue?

Sorry if im using incorrect terms when referring to parts



Here's my fuseable link wire.I didnt have any heat shrink tubes so I connected it with tape meanwhile


Heres another fuseable link wire connected to the side post..It was a yellow/white wire


This was a red/blue boot connected to the S terminal



This is a red/green boot connected to the other terminal


The yellow/white wire coming from the alternator is plugged onto the same terminal mentioned previously




And this is the one to my starter

 

And heres one last wire Brown/Black coming from the hareness under my battery..someone cut it off

 

I just went through all this a bunch of times to find my alt was broken.. I'm on my phone and can't quite clearly see... But that fuseable link is too small.. You need atleast 4ga. Wire and a properly sized fuse to match the alternator output... The yellow from the alt will either go to the battery terminal side of your starter seliniod... Or you can jump it right to the spot of the alt where the black/ orange striped wire isthat goes through your fuse. The green/ red striped wire from the alternator will either go to keyed 12v, but the better option is from your old alternator wire harnes cut the plug off the same colored wire, solder it on and plug it into the other end that should still be existing in the engine bay, it has the same, green/red coloring - this way it will run through the resistor in the dash. I'll look at the pics closer when I get on the computer.

 

You need to start over. Use the info on this link I posted. USe the diagram and follow it carefully. You can search this but the pic in this thread is all you need.

http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=36192&highlight=alternator+upgrade

 

I checked it out but thats a 130 amp 3g alternator.It looks nothing like what I have. I have a 2G alternator 75 amp

 

Why do you have the yel/wht wire going to the starter solenoid terminal that supplies power to the ignition coil only when cranking the starter?

 

Ok here you go this is how I have my 2 G wired

There are two plugs coming out of the alternator the one containing the primary power leads and the ones that control the regulator

First lets look at the upper plug that controls the regulator, if you notice there are three colored wires coming from it, a green and red wire, a white and black wire and a yellow and white wire.


First lets look at the black and white wire in the middle, it connects too the black and white wire in the lower plug


Next the yellow and white wire connects to the hot side of the starter solenoid, this is the wire that activates the field so the alternator can charge you can see it in this picture


And last but not least on the upper plug there is the green and red wire, its a hard one it just plugs into the red and geen wire on your wiring harness.


The two big wires coming out of the big socket connect together and they connect too the battery side of the started solenoid make sure you have a mega fuse inline

 

Here is the actual wiring diagram for that alternator

 

Ok so I found out it was my fuseable link wire that was causing the alternator to malfunction.I fixed that temporarily but as of yesterday I upgraded to the 3g alternator.the swap was real easy I was even able to find the alternator harness at NAPA so all I had to do was buy a 4 gauge battery wire and connected my dash light plug with one of the wires.I need to shave my bracket a bit to make the alternator sit perfect but I will take care of that next week. My car is running a lot better with the 3g I ran a test with the 2g alternator and I ran it today with my 3g alternator..these are my numbers

 

Good move. Some of the 2Gs had a history of overheating and catching on fire...

 

The alternator results on the 3G (right) confuse me. How did it pass with only 2A High RPM current? Was it not loaded? The 2G was throwing out 57A...

 

To tell u the truth Im not sure..I was going to test it out individually with a voltmeter but I hooked up the snap-on machine instead cause its much faster.It did 2 load tests on the alternator I believe

 

This post was very helpful, thank you. I went through a battery in about a month. Needed to add the fusable link with a much heavier gauge wire.