Anyone re-build a Equa Lock?

Discussion in 'Technical' started by stumanchu, Jun 10, 2018.

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  1. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    I have an early "posi" that doesnt work. I will not be absolutely certain it is an equa-lock until I get it apart, but if I find five tabs on the clutches, then the question will be answered. So, here is what I want to know and cant seem to find an answer to: How can I tell if the Belleville spring is bad, or....do they actually wear out? If it is broken, that will be obvious.....but otherwise, is there a way to know if it is still good? That spring seems to be gone from the face of the earth. I could just buy a trac loc, but have read at least 4 testimonies of equa lock systems working just fine, and at least one person making a good case for the less grip limited slip being a good thing in a light car. I would rather have a good mannered diff than a flawless strip warrior....but if Equa lock should be abandoned, I will listen.
    So....1) what about that spring?
    2) should I scrap it and go trac loc?
     
  2. dyent

    dyent Member

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    I had the Ford Equa-Lok 9 inch for 25 years, before changing over to Trac-Lok unit. There was nothing wrong with the Equa-Lok, used to add one more shim plate for weekend strip! Links below for replacement parts, since you are going to tear apart, would just get new replacement spring, cheap enough and then you don't have to worry about it.............make sure you soak the clutch plates in gear lube and friction modifier for a few hours or overnight, before reassembling........good luck!
    David



    https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-8-INC...196493?hash=item467e45870d:g:TboAAOSwo4pYaEoO

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-8-INC...508231?hash=item3d68a2da47:g:EE0AAOSw5cNYaEeP
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2018
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  3. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    Ahem....I took my diff out, and now I know why the "posi" didnt work.....its not posi:shocked:. I did not know how to tell when I bought it, and it was advertised as a posi, so I posi-tively shot myself in the foot. It is not the stupidest thing I have ever done, but at this point in life I try to limit that sort of thing. So, now, I may just put that early 3.25 open back in and wait until I re-build the 74 2.79 unit that the car came with into a trac loc, or whatever. I guess now is the time to contemplate if I am going to put in an AOD someday and bump the gear up to 3.80 or something. I only want to buy ONE more diff, so I am gonna noodle it a bit.
     
  4. dyent

    dyent Member

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    Bummer! You never did mention if it was 8 or 9 inch, also was it 2 or 4 spyder (pinion) unit?
    David
     
  5. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    8 inch. both have side gears the axles go through, and 2 spyder gears on a shaft....at least that is what it looks like. The diff I took out just started a very slight hum when coasting. I think I will clean it up and and check the gear pattern and ring gear lash. I need to learn how to fiddle with this stuff anyway. I am assuming the presence of the red paint on the housing surface is saying it has been re-built??? or just painted....lol.
     

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  6. yellow75

    yellow75 MCCI Oregon State Rep Supporting Member

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    The red color is the way they come from the factory, what ever you decide do not put a mini spool in it. You use to be able to get a Detroit EZ locker for around $250.00 but I have not been able to locate them any more, they were a good substitute for a true Detroit locker but with out the loud ratcheting noise and tire scrub when cornering I believe Auburn makes one like it. They are easy to install and are good for spirited driving I never has any problems with them drag racing or street use
     
  7. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    "I may just put that early 3.25 open back in."
    that would be a better choice than the 2.79...:yup:
     
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  8. dyent

    dyent Member

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    If you have one "roll pin" in the gear case, then it is 2 pinion, 3 "roll pins" it will be 4 pinion. In the "old" days, we used to make a cheap posi out of an open carrier, 4 pinion diff, used the center pinion block with 4 pre-load springs and cover from Trac-Lok unit. Set up correctly, it would lock up both tires when you punched it, no clutch plates etc., this set up was actually stronger than the clutch plate Equa or Trac lok cases, since there was more metal in place as you did not have to machine out space for the clutch plates.......
    Link below shows center block, 4 pre-load springs and cover, can get these parts only for around $50.........

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yukon-Trac...501699&hash=item2cbac831f8:g:OeEAAOSwEg1a2Tiz

    Here are the parts required:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Inch-For...NEW-/370548780947?vxp=mtr&hash=item56466daf93
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-9-Ford-T...nch-/223015425700?vxp=mtr&hash=item33ecc156a4
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Ford-Tra...w-9-/371581976928?vxp=mtr&hash=item5684030160

    OK, $35 for parts...............providing cross shafts, side washers, pinion and side gears are in good shape!
    David
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2018
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  9. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    I agree but here's something to think about.

    I have a female friend in her 70s that has a '68 Shelby convertible with welded spider gears(it chirps like Hell on sharp & U turns). The car is 4-speed, without P/S, setup for autocross & she still drives it.

    Back in Dec she went with us on a approx 125 mi cruse from Franklin VA(her home) up to Surry, caught the ferry over to Yorktown, Williamsburg, Grafton & back home at least partly on I-64. Yeah Mustang Sally is a tough ole gal.
     
  10. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    I wound up taking out some of the excessive backlash, and gave it a hair more preload, and put it back in. The hum went away, and it doesnt clunk going from R to D. I will leave the open diff in until I get my hands on an AOD and 3.80 trac loc. That will be my winter project......maybe 2 winters.
     

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