Hi everyone. I need some help with an AOD swap. I have not yet attempted to do the swap which is why I am here. I need to know which AOD I need to use for the swap(no computer controlled trans prefered). I would like something durable but also don't want it to take up too much HP. I have a 70 2 dr., manual steering, non-A/C(but will convert in future), manual disc brakes, and a 302(soon to be 331 stroker). I also need help with finding parts for the swap(ie trans mount, mount bracket, etc.). I currently have Hedman headers and would like to know if they will be compatible with the new trans. I also have a timeline that the conversion needs to be completed...July 15. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
The late AOD transmissions are stronger but in stock form leave a lot to be desired. The early AOD trannys has clutch drums of rolled sheet steel spot welded to corregated sheet steel for the clutch spline - a bit weaker than cardboard brake pads. The AOD bellhousing is bigger and your headers are not likely to clear. In short the AOD in stock form is no match for your future stroker - you would be miles ahead with a v-8 C-4 if you have to use a stock tranny. for around $40 - $50 dollars you can install a Transgo shift kit and make it really strong. PaulS
behind anything with horsepower, like a 331, you want at least four and preferably 5 direct and 5 forward frictions in the c4. even just a decently built 302 should be set up this way. good shift kit would be fine. i have a rev man valve body in mine, on the street, but that's not for everyone. depends on what inconveniences you are willing to live with. (must make every gear change manually, and no engine braking in first gear.) with a 4.11 rear, all i usually use on the street is 2nd and 3rd for normal driving. sometimes i will start up from a stop in 3rd if i'm feeling lazy. BUT, the shifts are just like you flipped a switch to the next gear.
Well, the reason I wanted to go with the AOD is because my current setup revs around 3,300 RPM at 60 MPH(302, C4, 8 inch rear with 3.55 gears). I just need something that will drop my RPMS down a bit so that I can have longer engine life and a bit higher top speed. Other than an AOD, what other kind of options do I have?
what size rear tire? diameter i mean. the reason i ask is that a 26 or 27 inch rear tire should put you under 3,000 rpm at 60 mph, and my 75 mav should fit a 28 inch tire like about 235x75x15.
I have a P215 70 R14 tire. I don't remember the tire diameter(I measured once before). I would like to drop engine RPMs down to around 1,800 to 2,000 @ 60 MPH.
going to use a stock stall converter, or going to put in a higher stall? using a tire with a 27 in diameter (actual) would be 2650 rpm at 60 mph. thats not overly hard on an engine.
drop the RPM Hello guys. Heres the formula to figure out RPM.--- MPH x GEAR RATIO DIVIDED BY TIRE DIA. x 336 EQUALS ENGINE RPM. SAMPLE. 65 x 3.55 equals 230.75 divided by 28 in equals 8.24 x 336 equals 2768.9 RPM Hope this helps. RON.
Maverick, look into an after market over-drive. Hone makes one and there are others. They come in manual and electric with gear ratios to fit most ant application. You don't want to use it when racing so just use the C-4 but when you are cruising just a click and your RPM are down where-ever you want them. PaulS
Would you happen to have a web address for Hone? By the way, I also looked into the Gear Vendors overdrive unit. It is a great unit, seems to be very easy to install, and uses very little HP. Unfortunately, it costs around $2500. I can only hope to find one used. Would anyone happen to know someone who has a used Gear Vendors overdrive unit for a C4 for sale?
A gear Vendors unit is also about $2200-$2500. Plus you will have to fabricate a new driveshaft, possibly modify the tunnel, reroute e-brake cables, and a few control things. It's a neat concept, but it is rarely done because for the same money and less effort you can build a decent AOD or AODE. Think carefully about your engine combo before running an OD that turns low rpm at cruise. How well do you think a carbureted 331 with a hot cam really run at less than 2000 rpm? You may end up with an engine that is much happier with a c4 cruising at 3000. Take a look at www.baumannengineering.com for some AOD info.
I want to thank you all for the advice. I think what I'll end up doing is stick with my C4 for the time being. I may just install a manual trans in the future as a replacement. I may even change my gears back to the 3.00 that were in there once before. Talk to you all later.
Can I convince you that the AOD is not the pansey trans many think it to be. I run one in my 4000 lb Lincoln Mark VII behind a Kenne Bell Blower. Butch Craft runs one in his 3850 lb. Mark VII behind a 550 hp 331 cu/in. and 14 lbs boost and turns low 11s. He has nearly 200 1/4 mile runs by now and mine has been on the road for a year. Surely you can run one behind a little N.A. 302 in a light car.
Bluegrass, The internal parts of your AOD are probably not the same ones that Ford installed. They are probably machined drums, bearings in the place of bushings and thrust bearings in the place of washers. With all the modifications to make an AOD as strong as a C-4 it is a very expensive proposition. With the same money I can build a C-4 and buy an aftermarket over-drive that can be used to get the same RPM at road speeds as you do with your AOD and get the same performance at the drags with up to 600 HP. When you can take a stock AOD, modify the shift timing and make it take that 600 HP without spending more than $200 (including the cost of the tranny core) then you will convince me that the AOD is as good as the C-4. The simple fact is that the original AOD has rolled steel clutch packs and a host of other problems that must be overcome to make it live on the street much less take the kind of HP that the C-4 can take with minor mods. This is not to say that you can't make it take HP - you can - it just takes a lot of money. PaulS
Paul you take to much for granted. I never said anything about a C4 in any kind of comparison to the AOD. My trans has all stock internals with the exception of a shift kit and 'A' servo. I know Butch's is race built by PA by intention just for racing but is still a street car. I am no where near that power level with a smaller blower, than he runs. There are people that would have told him the trans would not take it and the 5L block woud give up under that kind of boost but a properly tuned engine and trans will run as long as any other unit under the same circunstances. We both run large coolers as well. The point being the AOD is not as bad as made out to be. Many start out with a trans in junk condition, abuse it and then say their poor when they fail. I can say the same about any engine for that matter. You have your position, I have mine and actually live with and use them since 1985. I also run a C4 in my Comet behind the EFI motor.
