Attn T5 users - pls help

Discussion in 'Technical' started by 74Grabber, Nov 26, 2002.

  1. 74Grabber

    74Grabber New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2002
    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Dallas Texas
    Vehicle:
    1974 Grabber
    Hiya all,

    I have just installed a T5 behind a 88 5.0L in my 74 mav. It runs great it sounds better but i have not a clue on how to hookup the clutch pedal to the clutch.

    Is there anyone out there that has done this that could.

    1: Send me a detailed writeup of how they did it
    2: Include a parts list
    3: Send pictures of the install or take some pictures of it to go by

    Thanks - i am am driving myself crazy trying to figure out how to do this and thus far can not seem to make anything work.


    David
    Dmruff1@yahoo.com

    1974 Grabber
     
  2. mavman

    mavman Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2002
    Messages:
    2,028
    Likes Received:
    13
    Trophy Points:
    112
    Location:
    Arkansas
    Vehicle:
    '75 Maverick, '03 super duty, '04 Mustang Vee-six!
    http://www.fordmuscle.com

    look in the archives,they did it to a '67 Mustang, but Mavericks are very similar. If it was me, I'd go with a hydraulic throwout bearing.
     
  3. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2002
    Messages:
    6,796
    Likes Received:
    671
    Trophy Points:
    318
    Location:
    York. PA
    Vehicle:
    '70 Maverick Grabber
    I put a T5 in my '70 using '66 mustang linkage, but if you have an '88 block you don't have the tapped hole in the side of the block for the equalizer arm stud. You can buy an adaptor that allows you to mount a stud and use mechanical linkage, use a cable like the new Mustangs , or a hydraulic setup (very nice and very expensive).
     
  4. 74Grabber

    74Grabber New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2002
    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Dallas Texas
    Vehicle:
    1974 Grabber
    So the cable clutch system WILL work in my 74 mav? and i buy the kit for a 67 mustang?


    259.00 to get it to work is not a bad price
     
  5. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2002
    Messages:
    6,796
    Likes Received:
    671
    Trophy Points:
    318
    Location:
    York. PA
    Vehicle:
    '70 Maverick Grabber
    Does the release fork on your bellhousing have to be pushed or pulled to make the throwout bearing contact the pressure plate fingers?
     
  6. 74Grabber

    74Grabber New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2002
    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Dallas Texas
    Vehicle:
    1974 Grabber
    I will have to take a look at it - i think it gets pulled out, BUT i do not remember. Its a modern mustang T5 - like 1984 to 86ish - will double check this weekend :)





     
  7. jeremy

    jeremy I build t5's

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2002
    Messages:
    1,426
    Likes Received:
    4
    Trophy Points:
    110
    Location:
    Corona, Ca
    Vehicle:
    1972 2 door 302 maverick, 1986 5.0 stang gt convertible,66 mustang coupe, HEMI ram
    pulled.

    The modern 5.0's cable routes through the engine compartment, down to the clutch fork and straight through the clutch fork.

    step on the clutch, and it pulls the fork toward the front end thereby releasing the clutch
     
  8. JasonK

    JasonK Member

    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2002
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Olney IL
    Vehicle:
    '72 Mav, 302, T-5
    I used the hydraulic linkage from a Chevy (yuck) S-10. I kept the bell housing with the cable (pull) type throwout arm, and mounted the slave cylinder behind (towards rear of car) pushing forward. The master cylinder is mounted in a hole drilled where the original clutch linkage rod would have went through. I fabricated all of the brackets myself with scraps of metal I had laying around, nothing fancy, but does the trick. To hook to the pedal, I simply drilled a hole in the pedal and put a shoulder bolt through for the master cylinder rod to attach to.

    The whole thing works suprisingly well. The clutch pedal has a pretty short throw, but with a centerforce clutch it feels about right.

    Really nice thing is that the clutch reservoir is not attached to the master cylinder, and can be located wherever you want with a tube running to the master. Also, the whole thing cost about $40 with junkyard parts.

    We're putting a t-5 in my father's '66 Mustang and using a cable conversion kit, so it will be interesting to see which works better!
     

Share This Page