This is driving me nuts and I don't know how difficult it is to repair. My daughters 73 MAV is equipped with a C4 trans. It's perfect....Shifts great etc.... There is only one downfall. There is a slight leak where the selector shaft comes out on the driver side of the transmission. Just enough to piss me off because she is leaving a small spot on the driveway..... And transmission stop leak will not fix the small drip because it's a moveable shaft everytime she put's it in gear... How difficult is this to repair? Lennon
drop the pan, remove the valve body and remove the retaining nut that's on the inside. there should be an o-ring on the shaft and they tend to wear out over time. you dont have to remove the trans so its not a very hard repair. and this makes it a good time to replace the trans filter/fluid
My last three C4's have had that same leak... even my current one, which is totally rebuilt with a shift kit and all new seals and stuff leaks around that shaft. Pretty sure the stain on my driveway is about permanent after 2 years of leaky transmissions being parked there.
awesome guys... I was sceptical after I dropped the pan to go any further. So drop the valve body...? I wont be surprised by springs and square pegs shooting out everywhere will I...??? Sheesh!
No surprises coming out. record the position of the levers - how the shafts and levers fit together so you get them back together correctly. and then you just have to make sure that you get the manual valve in the linkage and the kickdown an the little valve going back in. Its not difficult but you have to have a sense of what is happening. besure to get a new gasket for the pan and some red loc-tite for the nuts on the linkage.
when you ..break...the shift lever nut...loose be sure and hold the shaft so the paul doesnt get in a bind and break loose on the shaft...easy to do. (ask Earl ) ...frank...
Yeah, be VERY carefull of the shaft! It can break with nearly zero pressure. If it does, get it welded back in place. I know, I broke mine! Cleared the shaft leak, now it leaks around the pan. It is nearly an impossible task to seal a C4 up tight, but I suppose it can be done. Good luck!
I have one that leaks on all sides, both ends, and whereever a shaft or cable enters. I decided to just put a big square pan (1" deep, 3'X4') under the car with a bath towel in it. I really need to just spend a couple hundred and have it rebuilt, but income tax money went to other projects. Maybe before the year is out... Good thing about the leak is that I keep topping it off with fresh fluid, and in effect, give it a twice-over fluid change yearly
When you put the pan back, there are little tricks you can do to make sure you don't have drips there next. Look at the pan from the side while off the car. Sometimes the bolt holes can buckle upwards. You can put the pan on a flat surface or anvil on a vise and tap those back flat. Make sure everything is clean and flat, then when you reinstall, do not overtighten. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern and if the gasket squeezes outward, you are too tight. If you decide to use a silicone gasket sealer, use it sparingly. I don't use it myself on the first try. If everything is perfect the first time out, and there is still a dribble, I will put silicone. It is best to use it on the pan only. Spread it very thin, let it sit for a minute or two, then line the gasket up on it. Now let the gasket sit on it for a few minutes, then put the pan up. Never use fresh silicone then put the pan right up. Let it firm up a bit. Dave
i am having the same issue, were can i find the shift or shaft kit? i have tried every were and knowone knows what im talking about...
try a...transmission parts store...if you know someone that rebuilds transmissions, they may get one for you...(shifter shaft seal) Frank
I coat all gaskets and the outside of metal cased seals with a thin film of Loc-tite #518. There are two seal where the shifter shaft goes into the case. The larger of the two is the seal for the shifter shaft itself and there is also an O-ring that seals the downshift shaft that goes through the shifter shaft. Other places that leak are the O-ring on the dipsick tube or a cracked tube, and the sealing nuts on the band adjusters. Aside from that there is the rear gasket between the main case and extension housing, the rear seal, cooler fitting O-rings and the converter seal. A cheap flourescent black light will help you find the origins of the leaks. ATF glows under the black light and you can trace the leak uphill to where it is coming from.
