I tried to start my Grabber after being in the garage for 3 weeks, and the battery was dead. This is the third time it's died after sitting for awhile. I took it into an electrical place the last time, and they said it was a loose cable, but it died again. Something is draining the battery. Does anyone have any ideas how to trace this? Roz
Funny. The same thing happens to my battery. (I'm guessing the alternator might be too small for my engine) not sure.
Electrical system checks for twelve volt systems With engine off, and battery connected: 1 Check electrolyte level in battery. If low fill it to ring. 2 Check battery volts. It should be from 12.4 to 13.2 3 Disconnect negative battery cable. 4 Check volts from cable terminal end to negative battery terminal. It should be near zero. Check to see if it will light a 12 volt light bulb. If not then check amp draw. 5 Check amp draw. Positive lead to cable, negative lead to battery negative post. Start with the highest amp scale and work down. If the draw is 25 mA (.025 Amps) or more, then track down the short in the system and repair it. If the draw is lower than 25mA ignore it for now. (if the battery is low charge it before making the next checks) Charging System Checks Always make the above checks first. 1 With the battery connected and engine running at high idle (approx. 1200 RPM) Check batery Volts (should be 13.2 to 14.8 volts) If the voltage is low go to step 3. If the voltage is high or rises with RPM past 15 volts, then remove the field wire from the alternator and check again. (should be at or less than battery volts) If the voltage stays high then the alternator is internally shorted and should be replaced or repaired. 2 If the voltage drops, then reconnect the field terminal at the alternator and disconnect regulator.If the voltage drops then replace the voltage regulator. If the battery volts remain high then the field wire is shorted in the harness. Repair or replace the harness. 3 If the battery voltage is low, then check the voltage from the alternator B+ terminal to the alternator case. If the voltage is low goto step 4. If the voltage is high then look for an open or resistance in the circuit between the B+ terminal and the battery or starter solenoid. Check for poor ground between alternator and chassis ground. If the voltage at the alternator is lower than or at battery volts then disconnect field wire at the alternator and disconnect the regulator. Connect a jumper from battery positive to the field terminal at the alternator and check output voltage. Voltage should rise with RPM above battery voltage to about 15 volts. If alternator voltage does not rise then remove the jumper from the battery positive terminal and connect it to ground or battery negative terminal. If voltage now rises the alternator uses an externally grounded field and is working. Replace the regulator. If the alternator voltage does not climb the the alternator is bad and needs to be replaced or repaired.
Electrical system checks for twelve volt systems With engine off, and battery connected: 1 Check electrolyte level in battery. If low fill it to ring. 2 Check battery volts. It should be from 12.4 to 13.2 Check belt adjustment. tighten it to factory specs. 3 Disconnect negative battery cable. 4 Check volts from cable terminal end to negative battery terminal. It should be near zero. Check to see if it will light a 12 volt light bulb. If not then check amp draw. 5 Check amp draw. Positive lead to cable, negative lead to battery negative post. Start with the highest amp scale and work down. If the draw is 25 mA (.025 Amps) or more, then track down the short in the system and repair it. If the draw is lower than 25mA ignore it for now. (if the battery is low charge it before making the next checks) Charging System Checks Always make the above checks first. 1 With the battery connected and engine running at high idle (approx. 1200 RPM) Check batery Volts (should be 13.2 to 14.8 volts) If the voltage is low go to step 3. If the voltage is high or rises with RPM past 15 volts, then remove the field wire from the alternator and check again. (should be at or less than battery volts) If the voltage stays high then the alternator is internally shorted and should be replaced or repaired. 2 If the voltage drops, then reconnect the field terminal at the alternator and disconnect regulator.If the voltage drops then replace the voltage regulator. If the battery volts remain high then the field wire is shorted in the harness. Repair or replace the harness. 3 If the battery voltage is low, then check the voltage from the alternator B+ terminal to the alternator case. If the voltage is low goto step 4. If the voltage is high then look for an open or resistance in the circuit between the B+ terminal and the battery or starter solenoid. Check for poor ground between alternator and chassis ground. If the voltage at the alternator is lower than or at battery volts then disconnect field wire at the alternator and disconnect the regulator. Connect a jumper from battery positive to the field terminal at the alternator and check output voltage. Voltage should rise with RPM above battery voltage to about 15 volts. If alternator voltage does not rise then remove the jumper from the battery positive terminal and connect it to ground or battery negative terminal. If voltage now rises the alternator uses an externally grounded field and is working. Replace the regulator. If the alternator voltage does not climb the the alternator is bad and needs to be replaced or repaired.
so it dies after its been sitting, but not when your out driving? my maverick was like that after it sat 2 weeks, kinda cold out too. I got a oldsmobile that will do that if its sat for more than 5 or 6 days. I just assumed it normal. It wont just die on me when driving or anything unreasonable like that that so i just live with it. sounds dumb but your sure you didnt leave anything on? have you done any electrical work latley that might be bad? Sounds like paul has you covered on checking the system its self
First off PaulS post is excellent. So my addition to this is when perfoming item 5) with your amp meter hooked up as described, if you are getting amp readings you can remove one fuse at a time to help isolate where the draw is coming from. hope my 2cc helps, as I know PaulS part deffinetly will
Thanks to everyone who answered, especially Paul for the detailed instructions. I'll print them out. Roz
Just an assumption here, but if you added a newer electronic radio that stores stations in memory, these have been known to drain a battery in as little as a week's time if the car has not been driven.
I would disconnect the battery if stored for a lengthy time....then,you will have to reset you radio stations.
Get a small battery charger to keep it charged up, Motorcycle shops sell battery tenders to keep the batteries charged up during winter storage. Basically you want a charger with very low current so you dont cook the battery.
Battery Tender Like Dennis suggested I highly recommend the "Battery Tender". I have several of these. I use them on everything. They have extended battery life tremendously. I used to have to buy a new battery for my Dirt Bike every year. Now I keep the Battery Tender on it 24 X 7 & this battery is still going strong after 4 years. I use the Battery Tender Junior. Here is a link to there site. http://batterytender.com/product_info.php?products_id=4&osCsid=c0e9ba864c7b0bbb11b73fcc28ad9ac4
Locate and disconnect the door buzzer (that buzzes when the door is open and key in ignition). These are notorious for wearing out and causing a slow drain, even when the key is off and removed and the doors are closed. It will cause a really low, like .15v (or is it amp?) drain while sitting and slowly kill the battery. That is what solved my drain problem... Just throw it away...who wants that obnoxious buzzing going on anyway?
